Dead Dependable Care Maytag

[bobbyderegis]

What could cause an LAT941*** (ten years old) to do this? My friend pushed in the timer knob during agitation, the washer continued to run for a few seconds, stopped, and then would not start again. It is completely dead. No fill or spin, no humming. I checked the terminal blocks and all seem secure. The timer is dead, too. Could the timer have shorted out?
Bobby in Boston
BTW, the quality is nowhere near that of the old 06,08, 10, and 12 series.

 

[coldspot66]

Sounds like a bad lid switch. These machines have a lid switch assembly. Do you hear any clicking when opening/closing the lid? Can't really bypass it. Just replace it with p/n 12001908 white assy or 22001682 depending on model.If you can get a complete model and serial # I'll check.
Yea, the quality of the dc models really went downhill. She's lucky it hasn't started leaking yet!

 

[goatfarmer]

Is this the one that has the microswitch in line with the lid switch? Crazy as it sounds, I've had a few Maytags that were dead, and by disconnecting this switch, and reconnecting it, the washer would work. Worth a try, or replace the microswitch.

 

[redcarpetdrew]

It depends...

Goatfarmer, on the lat9416aae, if the serial number starts with 10 thru 14, it's the assy with the microswitch and removable 4 amp fuse. If the serial number is 15 or above, it's a one piece sealed lid switch/fuse assy that's the same as the one on the Norge/Atlantis platform.

RCD

 

[bobbyderegis]

Guys:
It's an LAT9416AAE, serial # 22275072SU. The lid switch is clicking. Besides, wouldn't it fill with a bad lid switch?
Bobby in Boston

 

[redcarpetdrew]

No it won't...

With the new style lid switch/fuse assy (white body), when the fuse blows, it kills everything. You gotta replace it. If you pull the access cover off the rear of the console, you should find the wiring diagram which will help you ohm out the lid switch assy to prove that it's bad...

RCD

 

[coldspot66]

Hi Bobby,
Marcone in Malden should have the lid switch p/n 12001908. Or I can send you one. Let me know.

 

[bobbyderegis]

Sounds great, guys. I need to help out this nice lady. She is really nursing me through with my sick cat. Is the fuse in the switch, or is it a separate part? Repairclinic.com had a couple different lid switches, a fuse, and a lid switch/fuse kit. Which to get?
Bobby in Boston

 

[bobbyderegis]

Sorry guys:
I didn't read the above threads carefully. I'll order pt. # 12001908. Now I understand it's a one piece unit. I'll keep you posted.
Bobby in Boston

 

[bobbyderegis]

OK:
I got the part. Now what to do with it? Cripe, they have changed these machines so much you would think it's a Whirlpool. There are no screws. Does it just snap in?
Bobby in Boston

 

[redcarpetdrew]

Kind of...

You either unhook the console from the washer top or remove the timer to make it easier. Lift the lid to take pressure off the switch. There is a little plastic tab to one side of the switch that you gently lift to unlock the switch and it slides forward a little bit and comes separate from the top. Putting the new one in is as simple as engaging the ears on the switch into the top and sliding back until the lock tab engages. Good luck!

RCD

 

[bobbyderegis]

Thanks RCD. I'll keep you all posted.
Bobby in Boston

 

[bobbyderegis]

Hey All:
You were all right on the money. The new lid switch was put in, and she fired right up. I can't believe the crappy quality that Maytag reduced itself to. I thought I would crack the plastic on the lid switch and on the console top. Just crap. I guess I am just used to the old tanks from 20 years ago. It is a very quiet washer, but I was very unimpressed with the wash action. It didn't do half as much movement as the old helical drives.
Bobby in Boston