DG 808 Not Turning Off, Not Changing Temps

[tygerlondon]

Hi, All

My Dg 808 doesn't shut off by itself and doesn't really vary in temps. It's done this for a long while and it's never been a problem because we don't leave it running we aren't home anyway. I just manually stop the dryer when the clothes are done.

My issue is, I don't hear the dryer quick when the clothes are done, the solenoid engaging, as it should. I replaced the control board already which also includes that solenoid. The problem then has to be in a capacitor, sensing bar ( I feel like I've changed this out before, but I can't remember for sure) or a thermostat.

If anyone has encountered this problem before and could give me a solid starting point that way I'm not shooting in the dark, I'd appreciate it.

 

[phillymatt53]

Welcome to the world of modern technology and its vulnerable electronics issues.
Those once-simple appliances that lasted problem-free for decades are now part of history, thanks to technology.
I'm sure that others on here will chime in on your problem, I know it's previously been discussed.

 

[maytag85]

This is exactly why I put together a Maytag franken HOH dryer together without the electronic dry control.

 

[qsd-dan]

The Maytag 808 series dryer was around from 1976-early 1980, it's far from modern.

One of the 2 most common failure points with these after thousands of cycles and decades of use is a broken paperclip linkage/tab to the control switch that's responsible for rerouting power to the motor through the cool down thermostat after the bell chimes. 2nd is a broken internal wafer board inside the control switch from the jarring action of the solenoid shifting the wafer board into cool down mode. If the paperclip linkage is there and functions properly, it's probably the control switch. Manually shift the tab switch back and forth where the paperclip linkage is attached to, there should be a distinct click. If there's no click and the wafer board is loose/sloppy, there's your problem.

Another problem, though more rare, is a failed cool down thermostat. The thermostat should have no continuity when the dryer is cold, under 100F.

Here's a picture from Brians (RIP) thread of a full restoration. Note the linkage clip is upside down (pulling it at a downward angle instead of straight across), don't route it this way unless you want significantly reduced life out of the tab/control switch.

https://automaticwasher.org/threads/maytag-de808-restoration-11-10-12-10.33488/

 

[phillymatt53]

The Maytag 808 series dryer was around from 1976-early 1980, it's far from modern.

One of the 2 most common failure points with these after thousands of cycles and decades of use is a broken paperclip linkage/tab to the control switch that's responsible for rerouting power to the motor through the cool down thermostat after the bell chimes. 2nd is a broken internal wafer board inside the control switch from the jarring action of the solenoid shifting the wafer board into cool down mode. If the paperclip linkage is there and functions properly, it's probably the control switch. Manually shift the tab switch back and forth where the paperclip linkage is attached to, there should be a distinct click. If there's no click and the wafer board is loose, there's your problem.

Another problem, though more rare, is a failed cool down thermostat. The thermostat should have no continuity when the dryer is cold, under 100F.

Here's a picture from Brians (RIP) thread of a full restoration. Note the linkage clip is upside down, don't route it this way unless you want significantly reduced life out of the tab/control switch.

https://automaticwasher.org/threads/maytag-de808-restoration-11-10-12-10.33488/

View attachment 321143

Great post!

 

[tygerlondon]

The Maytag 808 series dryer was around from 1976-early 1980, it's far from modern.

One of the 2 most common failure points with these after thousands of cycles and decades of use is a broken paperclip linkage/tab to the control switch that's responsible for rerouting power to the motor through the cool down thermostat after the bell chimes. 2nd is a broken internal wafer board inside the control switch from the jarring action of the solenoid shifting the wafer board into cool down mode. If the paperclip linkage is there and functions properly, it's probably the control switch. Manually shift the tab switch back and forth where the paperclip linkage is attached to, there should be a distinct click. If there's no click and the wafer board is loose/sloppy, there's your problem.

Another problem, though more rare, is a failed cool down thermostat. The thermostat should have no continuity when the dryer is cold, under 100F.

Here's a picture from Brians (RIP) thread of a full restoration. Note the linkage clip is upside down (pulling it at a downward angle instead of straight across), don't route it this way unless you want significantly reduced life out of the tab/control switch.

https://automaticwasher.org/threads/maytag-de808-restoration-11-10-12-10.33488/

View attachment 321143

I ended up replacing the above setup yesterday with a salvage one that folks here linked me to on Ebay YEARS ago . The plastic tab that connects to the linkage was broken on my of part and I've known that for sometime. I was surprised to have the same problem once I put the new piece in yesterday. I said in my first post that I didn't hear the clicking, the same as beforehand, but it's there now-- I must have walked away at just the right moment earlier to have missed it. I'm also getting some distinction between damp dry and regular now as well. So my summation of the problem was a little off. My apologies.

Was "Brian" "Beeyknees" sp? When I first got these machines years ago, inherited with my turn-of-the-century house, he gave me a bit of grief. He also helped me a ton. Edit: I just followed your link of the restoration. It was him. I'm sad he's no longer with us.

 

[qsd-dan]

So my summation of the problem was a little off. My apologies.

Is it working correctly now? If not, I have the original manual and scan/post the testing procedures.

 

[tygerlondon]

Is it working correctly now? If not, I have the original manual and scan/post the testing procedures.

No. It isn't shutting off on it's own or dinging still. The linkage is intact.

 

[qsd-dan]