My probably 1967 DG806 does not stop when the clothes are dry. I see that there are three thermostats on the outer drum and there is no obvious timer. Before I go further, I would like to find out about the small gray box on the right hand end of the inner control panel. It is connected to many wires. Does anyone know what this is? Could it be related to my problem?
DG806 Not Stopping
- Thread starter StuC
- Start date
Help Support :
It could be one of your problems.
This is a complicated repair to make unless you are pretty comfortable with electrical stuff.
A handful of others and myself have made these repairs on this electronic dry control.
I will honestly say that the gas model of that dryer of that age is not something I would be using on a daily basis without giving it a thorough overhaul. If you do a search for my user name and "Maytag" you will come across the dozens of posts related to my 1967 DG806 overhaul from last summer. Mark
This is a complicated repair to make unless you are pretty comfortable with electrical stuff.
A handful of others and myself have made these repairs on this electronic dry control.
I will honestly say that the gas model of that dryer of that age is not something I would be using on a daily basis without giving it a thorough overhaul. If you do a search for my user name and "Maytag" you will come across the dozens of posts related to my 1967 DG806 overhaul from last summer. Mark
beekeyknee
Well-known member
Mark,
I agree. If an overhaul hasn't been done, it is in order. Do you think the cool-down t-stat could have gone bad? As I recall there's been lots of chatter on here about grounding and sometimes room temp. too, but it's doubtful that room temp would be a problem this time of year, unless one lives in the southern hemisphere. Shouldn't be many furnaces running up here right now.
Question. Aren't the front seal gaskets for DG806's getting really scarce? There's a DG806 on C/L right now in Hannibal, but I'm steering away from it because I don't want to get involved in a front seal situation. Thanks much.
Brian
I agree. If an overhaul hasn't been done, it is in order. Do you think the cool-down t-stat could have gone bad? As I recall there's been lots of chatter on here about grounding and sometimes room temp. too, but it's doubtful that room temp would be a problem this time of year, unless one lives in the southern hemisphere. Shouldn't be many furnaces running up here right now.
Question. Aren't the front seal gaskets for DG806's getting really scarce? There's a DG806 on C/L right now in Hannibal, but I'm steering away from it because I don't want to get involved in a front seal situation. Thanks much.
Brian
I got the last true Maytag HOH front seal that Larry in Parma had last summer. That said, after looking at it and installing it, there would definitely be a way to improvise something with heat treated canvas and felt strips or maybe even a high-temp silicone band that had the inner lip that rode against the drum lined with a piece of high temperature felt or polyester.
Doubtful that it's the cool-down stat but not IMPOSSIBLE. That test would only take a few minutes.
If it worked properly in the past I'm guessing that either there is a bad connection on the electronic control OR that a wire has worn through and is grounding somewhere in the drum baffles.
Improper grounding causes a HOH to shut off prematurely, not run on for ever.
Doubtful that it's the cool-down stat but not IMPOSSIBLE. That test would only take a few minutes.
If it worked properly in the past I'm guessing that either there is a bad connection on the electronic control OR that a wire has worn through and is grounding somewhere in the drum baffles.
Improper grounding causes a HOH to shut off prematurely, not run on for ever.
maytagbear
Well-known member
When my DG502
wouldn't shut off, all it took was scrubbing the dryness sensors (drum vanes) with water (not dripping) and a mildly abrasive cloth, like a cotton face cloth. I used one for each vane.
Yes, it could be the electronic control, but scrubbing the vanes only takes a few moments.....try it and see.
However, the idea of a full maintenance is still an excellent suggestion.
Lawrence/Maytagbear
wouldn't shut off, all it took was scrubbing the dryness sensors (drum vanes) with water (not dripping) and a mildly abrasive cloth, like a cotton face cloth. I used one for each vane.
Yes, it could be the electronic control, but scrubbing the vanes only takes a few moments.....try it and see.
However, the idea of a full maintenance is still an excellent suggestion.
Lawrence/Maytagbear
Thank you Mark (Kenmore71). I looked up some earlier posts and it would seem that
the cpacitor is the likely culprit. I also gather from your posts that my
machine, having a Permanent Press cycle, is a 1969 or later. Many thanks also
for the wiring diagrams in thread 36101.
This machine received a complete overhaul just before I bought it in 1994. So I'm
hoping this won't be needed at this point (it's been used by a two person family).
Regards,
Stu Clark
the cpacitor is the likely culprit. I also gather from your posts that my
machine, having a Permanent Press cycle, is a 1969 or later. Many thanks also
for the wiring diagrams in thread 36101.
This machine received a complete overhaul just before I bought it in 1994. So I'm
hoping this won't be needed at this point (it's been used by a two person family).
Regards,
Stu Clark
Non Shutting off DG806 Dryer
There are many reasons why this dryer may fail to shut off properly after the clothes are dry. The first test to make is to disconnect the yellow wire from brush connection and run the dryer on damp dry, you should hear the bell and the dryer should stop in 8-10 seconds or so. If it does shut off this way you may have a shorted baffle, bad brush etc. If it still doesn't shut off with the wire disconnected at the brush you have a control or selector switch problem. It could be a bad capacitor but in almost 40 years of working on these dryers I have never seen a bad capacitor. The first thing I would do is solder all the connectors on to the circuit board, this was a really big problem on the gas dryers as they corroded much more than the electric models because of the constant burning pilot.
You can look the recent post about the DE750 MT Electric HOH dryer that I restored and on this one I couldn't get it to work till I soldered all the connections and then it worked perfectly.
There are many reasons why this dryer may fail to shut off properly after the clothes are dry. The first test to make is to disconnect the yellow wire from brush connection and run the dryer on damp dry, you should hear the bell and the dryer should stop in 8-10 seconds or so. If it does shut off this way you may have a shorted baffle, bad brush etc. If it still doesn't shut off with the wire disconnected at the brush you have a control or selector switch problem. It could be a bad capacitor but in almost 40 years of working on these dryers I have never seen a bad capacitor. The first thing I would do is solder all the connectors on to the circuit board, this was a really big problem on the gas dryers as they corroded much more than the electric models because of the constant burning pilot.
You can look the recent post about the DE750 MT Electric HOH dryer that I restored and on this one I couldn't get it to work till I soldered all the connections and then it worked perfectly.
beekeyknee
Well-known member
Before soldering all the connections together I would try spraying the edge board connector slot with a good electronic cleaner, like Techspray's Blue Shower Spray or something by Caig. Caig makes pretty good stuff and in smaller cans so it might be cheaper. Then spray a bit of the cleaner on a lint free cloth or paper towel and lightly wipe the side of the board where the contacts are and push it back down in the e/b connector. This will remove oxidation and might solve the problem, if that's where it lies.
Do you know who did the overhaul? If it wasn't done properly or thoroughly you could still experience failure. Improper lubrication of the center drum shaft bearing could cause permanent damage. The bearings are NOL. [this post was last edited: 6/20/2012-02:26]
Do you know who did the overhaul? If it wasn't done properly or thoroughly you could still experience failure. Improper lubrication of the center drum shaft bearing could cause permanent damage. The bearings are NOL. [this post was last edited: 6/20/2012-02:26]
Non Shutting off DG806 Dryer
Brain I did all that careful cleaning and still no go, one of the main problems is that the little brass terminals on the wire ends tend to crack and then have no tension so you would really need to replace all the terminals if you don't just solder them in place.
One of the reasons that I have been so successful in my business is that I fix things the first time, but if you are more of a hobbyist and don't mind doing a repair over and over I am sure their is more than one way to fix this problem. Interestingly I learned this soldering tech nick at an official MT service meeting, these technicians are also the ones that suggest cutting the wires to one or two of the baffles on the early wire wound baffles.
I have almost always been able to get these EC MT HOH dryers to operate properly without replacing any parts, in fact the only part of his system we replaced in any number was the selector switches as they would often break where the shut-off solenoid pulls the tab to reset the cycle and cause the dryer to go into cool-down.
Brain I did all that careful cleaning and still no go, one of the main problems is that the little brass terminals on the wire ends tend to crack and then have no tension so you would really need to replace all the terminals if you don't just solder them in place.
One of the reasons that I have been so successful in my business is that I fix things the first time, but if you are more of a hobbyist and don't mind doing a repair over and over I am sure their is more than one way to fix this problem. Interestingly I learned this soldering tech nick at an official MT service meeting, these technicians are also the ones that suggest cutting the wires to one or two of the baffles on the early wire wound baffles.
I have almost always been able to get these EC MT HOH dryers to operate properly without replacing any parts, in fact the only part of his system we replaced in any number was the selector switches as they would often break where the shut-off solenoid pulls the tab to reset the cycle and cause the dryer to go into cool-down.
I would go ahead and change out the capacitor. I've done enough work with old electrolytic capacitors to know that they DO actually go bad with time and exposure to heat. Look back at my posts for last year for what I used. They're only 5-6 bucks. Can't hurt, right?
Non Shutting off DG806 Dryer
No it will not hurt to replace the capacitor, but it will not help either if it is not bad, LOL. Capacitors are easy to test with a good meter that tests capacitors, and I have never seen one that stopped one of these dryers from functioning properly.
No it will not hurt to replace the capacitor, but it will not help either if it is not bad, LOL. Capacitors are easy to test with a good meter that tests capacitors, and I have never seen one that stopped one of these dryers from functioning properly.
.
John, you are right on about those little brass connectors that attach to the board. On the gas dryer I restored last year, those connectors were in terrible shape.All split apart, and some of the other spade type connectors had even corroded right off the wires! I also had an electric 806 dryer to use for parts, and I spent hours on that project using wiring, electrical parts, and connectors from the electric dryer to use on the corroded mess of the gas dryer.Whatever electrical parts that were not replaced, were well cleaned. I have never spent so much time on a dryer, and I never want to do it again either.I restored an 806 set for my aunt and uncle, who had to have a gas dryer. It was just a horrible mess inside from all those years with the standing pilot light. It was even sticky inside that dryer!I have never seen anything like it. At any rate, I got the job done, but it would have saved me a lot of work, if I had thought of simply soldering the wires to the board. This dryer no longer has a standing pilot light, and both the washer and dryer are working perfectly, and they have been in use for about a year. (YIKES! now I am crossing my fingers)
http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?35740_34
John, you are right on about those little brass connectors that attach to the board. On the gas dryer I restored last year, those connectors were in terrible shape.All split apart, and some of the other spade type connectors had even corroded right off the wires! I also had an electric 806 dryer to use for parts, and I spent hours on that project using wiring, electrical parts, and connectors from the electric dryer to use on the corroded mess of the gas dryer.Whatever electrical parts that were not replaced, were well cleaned. I have never spent so much time on a dryer, and I never want to do it again either.I restored an 806 set for my aunt and uncle, who had to have a gas dryer. It was just a horrible mess inside from all those years with the standing pilot light. It was even sticky inside that dryer!I have never seen anything like it. At any rate, I got the job done, but it would have saved me a lot of work, if I had thought of simply soldering the wires to the board. This dryer no longer has a standing pilot light, and both the washer and dryer are working perfectly, and they have been in use for about a year. (YIKES! now I am crossing my fingers)
http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?35740_34
beekeyknee
Well-known member
Larry,
I'm sure you're probably right. It was just a thought. The edge board connectors in the HOH are probably different than the SOH, right? I haven't messed with the HOH edge boards yet, so I was just making a semi-educated guess. Thought it might be easier to do than solder, if it worked. If one were to do the solder job wouldn't one need lead rosin core solder to match the old type solder? I have some and any time I do soldering on old equipment I always use the old type solder. It works much better, I think. The HOH will be in my future, if I ever find one. Have to find an electric. Don't want to mess with the front seal on a HOH gas dryer. It's too bad, we can't get those anymore. There's a nice one on C/L in Hannibal, but it's gas. Question. If one of the old wire wound baffles gets grounded to the drum, how does one know which wire to cut to which baffle to solve the problem, or is my thinking off?[this post was last edited: 6/21/2012-02:13]
I'm sure you're probably right. It was just a thought. The edge board connectors in the HOH are probably different than the SOH, right? I haven't messed with the HOH edge boards yet, so I was just making a semi-educated guess. Thought it might be easier to do than solder, if it worked. If one were to do the solder job wouldn't one need lead rosin core solder to match the old type solder? I have some and any time I do soldering on old equipment I always use the old type solder. It works much better, I think. The HOH will be in my future, if I ever find one. Have to find an electric. Don't want to mess with the front seal on a HOH gas dryer. It's too bad, we can't get those anymore. There's a nice one on C/L in Hannibal, but it's gas. Question. If one of the old wire wound baffles gets grounded to the drum, how does one know which wire to cut to which baffle to solve the problem, or is my thinking off?[this post was last edited: 6/21/2012-02:13]
Similar threads
Latest posts
-
Whirlpool dishwasher motors update
- Latest: gelaundry4ever
-
-
-
