Direct-drive bearing question

[DADoES]

 
Direct-drive design is now 30+ years old so qualifies for the Imperial section.

Anyway ... I test-ran a bare motor-transmission sitting on the base pedestal (without outer tub, inner basket, or pump) to confirm operation after replacement of the tub support and basket drive ... which entails everything new (except the transmission).  I noticed the centerpost getting warm within a couple mins at the upper spin tube bearing/seal area.  Is that normal, or an indication of insufficient lubrication on the (new) bearings/spin tube?  What kind of lubrication is needed there?  I lightly greased the spin tube before installing and added some to the lip cavity on the upper seal.

 

[coldspot66]

I have used turbine oil in the upper bushing before installing the upper seals.

 

[combo52]

Lubricating the Center Post Spin Bearings On A WP Built DD

Or BD washer for that matter, Hi Glen I know you sent me a note about this very question and it came at a busy time and I did not get back to you, Sorry.

 

The area above the top bearing should be filled with turbine oil, the area between the two top seals should be filled with grease. Even so some warmth is still probably normal, I have noticed this on both BD and DD WP built washers.

 

[DADoES]

 
Thanks for the replies.  I had intended to add a little turbine oil but overlooked it during initial assembly. Schoenenberg Electric back in the day, we added wicking material amd saturated it with oil between the upper bearing and seal when overhauling belt-drives.  I was not 'schooled' at the time on whether that was their own procedure or lubrication per service specs (although presumably not the wicking material).

I disassembled and added some oil.  On the next bare-naked test the spin tube was acting odd, bobbing up/down slightly.  Agitate for a couple mins to set neutral drain.  Drain, then spin again.  There was a clunk and the spin tube stopped rotating.  Stop and restart spin a couple times, it'll spin for a second, then stops turning.  So, have to disassemble again to investigate.

 

[yogitunes]

on some of the older machines, in any part of moving that transmission/spin drive, normally the machine is laid down, like changing a belt, but in some cases, you have to place the trans in place, and only screw in the bolts to within 1/2 upon tightening, then stand the machine up, and sort of shake the trans/base unit to sort of center it....and while still standing up, reach in and tighten the bolts securely ....

this may be just one of those times, something is a bit off, and the machine wont always spin once reassembled unless done this way....

just an FYI

 

[DADoES]

 
Martin, thanks, yes I know about that, although I think it applies more to belt-drive machines than direct-drive.  Anyway, the tub support/transmission assembly is set on a small round patio table with the glass top removed for tightening the bolts.

Disassembled, nothing obviously wrong or broken.  Reassembled, same issue.  I turned the spin tube by hand while it was trying to spin and found something is binding.  It spins a couple/few rotations then stops again.  The clutch housing is turning.  So I go again to delve deeper, determine if it's a bearing issue or a brake issue or a clutch issue.  Everything is new, tub support/bearings/centerpost, basket drive/spin tube/brake, clutch.

.... The brake.  Perhaps related to test-running without the basket in place for the brake release to work against?  DD brakes sometimes have a hellacious grab.  Perhaps add a tiny dab of grease on one of the shoes?

 

[jetcone]

Pictures Please!

For the Uninitiated to understand???

 

Sounds interesting.