Does anyone else hate the "normal" cycle on new washers?

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It's funny that this thread came back up.

The washer I was talking about in the original post, a basic Whirlpool top loader WTW4816FW, died in 2022 due to what I now believe was a failed mode shifter as it was stuck between drain and spin. I have since learned that issue could have been fixed relatively cheaply, but the appliance tech over the phone told me it was the gearcase and not worth repairing. Lesson learned: Always have the appliance techs come to your house to diagnose and if they won't, find another repair tech that will.

After two used washers that didn't quite work out due to various issues, I now have the new version of the original machine in this post, which is the updated WTW4816FW3. I still don't use the normal cycle much, but I now understand better what it's mostly for, which is smaller loads of everyday clothes. It doesn't work very well for anything above a half load or so because the updated version of this washer seems to use a lower water level on normal than in any other cycle. I feel like full loads get bunched up in the bottom part of the tub and get thrashed by the lower agitator fins -- not much actual movement going on that I can perceive, just a lot of thrashing back and forth. So for full loads, which is what I normally do, I tend to use the heavy duty cycle on auto sense which seems to provide enough water for the clothes to move around effectively without resorting to the deep fill option. I do occasionally use the deep fill for really big loads of towels though. Also, a really big load in this machine isn't quite what, say, an old direct drive Whirlpool or Kenmore can handle. I can fill loosely to the top row of holes but one really shouldn't overload these machines at all because I don't think the gearbox can handle the strain.

Overall though I'm pleased with my washer. It does everything I need with little attitude, which I appreciate, and the controls are simple knobs, great for this blind guy not wanting to over-think about workarounds for touch screen controls. I still feel the normal cycle doesn't work well except in some cases, but it really is a great basic washer. I thought about getting the new Maytag commercial PinkPower mentioned above, but it was a bit out of my price range and the machine I have now performs quite similarly to it, although admittedly without the heavy-duty components in the Maytag.

Ryne
 
I think a better solution would be to have the people who work in the government have these machines for awhile, if they don’t like them, then so do we.
 
i wonder how the goverment would react with this washer?

I wonder how the governments today would react with this washer, that's 1 cold water fill only especially when set to warm or hot tell you after each 30 wash to clean washer that's suppose to use tap hot water for cleaning cycle with afresh but use only cold water?

I ca say as a consumer and owning this Maytag washer since 2021 that did this once fix it self in 2022 but doing it again makes me angry and if my mom would of known that Maytag are now made by whirlpool pretty certain if she would of listen when we purchuse or new daily driver set back in 2021 we would be today with a huebsch speed queen set tr 7 or tc 5 washer dryer set model in pic mvw 6230hw

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My wife had a set of old whirlpool washer dryer we got from her parents.
They did a decent job and ran for years until timer problems and then an oil leak caused me to think we needed a new set.

First purchased a set of High efficiency GE front loader and dryer.
The front loader ran about 5 years before developing a bearing issue and we ran it to destruction in about 4 months .
I was disappointed but felt the machines did a decent job, they did save a lot of water and I thought that was important.
Just did not last.
I did not like the fact I could not do anything to alter the wash cycles.

Next washer was Whirlpool Glass lid and wash plate.
Wife seemed to think the huge tub was a good idea.
I felt the wash was not very good.
Bearing failure after three years, I was pretty disappointed...
It was an expensive machine but it did not wash well and I was not going to put money into it

Current washer is cheapest unit whirlpool makes a Maytag ????
Its nearly identical to the Maytag MVWC415EW previously mentioned.
First break down was at 1 year exactly one week before warranty ended so it was covered.

I looked into it at this point and discovered just how cheap this machine is
Here is a link to a youtube video to give you a better idea of exactly what is under the current generation of WP washers.



There is a lot to like about this machine.
I do kid of like the tub suspension, but corners were cut.
I wonder what could have been done with a little more effort to actually dampen an unbalanced load
Next thing to look at is the splutch.
This is a really cheap thing that locks the tub to the drive motor and also contains an encoder to keep track of drum speed and position.
The trany itself is really cheap and completely non serviceable.
Motor is a normal split phase with a Chinese made oil cap .
Controls are completely electronic.
Not well made from reports I read they tend to fry relays.

That said there is a lot that could have been done to make a great washer but all the corners were cut.

All that said I don;t think this had to be a bad washer it could have been a decent reliable washer,
The agitator works pretty well all things consider.
But I know it won;t last and parts are not well made or inexpensive

What I really want is a quality replacement parts and a measure of control over the wash cycles and water levels just like the old set we had.
Maybe that will be easy to get at some point, I hope so at any rate.

TO that end I am post a link to Aliepxress.
I went looking for the Chinese parts supplier that Whilrpool uses to provide these boards and parts.
I found all kinds of aftermarket parts that in all honestly do not fit my needs.
But they give me hope that one day I can order a 20 dollar Chinese board with enough buttons and maybe a touch screen that will allow full control over all washer functions

SO you can hope..
https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholes...hing+machine+board&spm=a2g0o.detail.1000002.0

A user customized washing machine controller that is easy to program wash cycles and provide you with trouble shooting options could be had for 100 bucks or less
I know what can be done.
Off the shelf Chinese parts with open source software.
I think its just a matter of time..
 
Slower spin after wash cycle

Since the great majority of laundry loads contain clothing, this is really appropriate, front loading washers don’t go into a full 1200 RPM spin after the wash cycle either.

This really doesn’t make a bit of difference no testing has ever revealed a problem with using a little bit slower, spin speed after the wash before rinsing. Likewise, I’ve never had a customer complain about this either.

A significant laundry problem that is not talked about here often is that you really should not rinse all the detergent out of clothing unless you have perfectly soft water which most people don’t., Leaving some detergent behind, keeps the clothes softer it protects the machine from mineral buildup, and it makes the clothes get cleaner the next time they’re washed after they’ve been worn.

John
 
Jerome, get yourself an older Speed Queen, at least the control panel- it can be transplanted on a new one. Though the early spray rinse is present on most models... I think the AWN542 is the only one where its delayed sufficiently.
 
Slow interim spin

I don’t agree. The differences between a slow interim spin and higher interim spin are larger than one would think. Rinsing is not nearly as good. This is the exact reason why I do not use TurboWash/AccelaWash on my Kenmore. The Normal cycle without TurboWash will run miles around the rinsing performed by a TurboWash cycle. Though, you should expect two rinses to perform better than one deep rinse with spray rinses. You can see similar results using either Bulky or Bedding cycles that use a higher water level, yet low interim spin speeds. Rinsing is very poor. Some of this very well could be related to detergent dosing, water quality, and soil level of clothing.
 
In the UK it’s normal for machines to do at least 800rpm interim spins in between wash & rinse here on cotton, most machines do 1000rpm but machines like Fisher&Paykel, Bosch & Miele or LG do higher (1100rpm/1200rpm/1400rpm respectively). Mixed cycles usually do 1000rpm and synthetics (think it’s perm press in the US) usually do 1000/1200rpm
 
Hi Chet, I think you need to find that quote. I did say I would never have a Speed Queen top loader in my personal laundry room and that’s still true but it had nothing to do with rinsing, It’s just a waste of water. I wouldn’t buy any top load washer today for my personal use period.

And I’ve never been a real anal nut about over rinsing because we have seven grains of hardness here if you rinse too much I’ve seen what it does I have customers that rinse again and again until there isn’t a single bubble left and they get this calcium buildup in the outer tub and end up ruining the seals in their washers.

John
 
I can't stand detergent residue left in my clothing, it's uncomfortable and brings me out in rashes when I sweat.

I've always used the extra rinses button on every washing machine, I've owned or used since reducing water usage and the extra rinses button became a thing in the UK, otherwise they don't rinse thoroughly enough.

The water is pretty hard in east anglia, 340mg/l, which is apparently 20 - 21 grains per US gallon. I have to descale my current machine, usually about once a year otherwise the scale apparently creates hot spots on the element causing it to blow, with older machine which had hot fill it wasn't so much of a problem.
 
Well my Normal on my literal multi-cycle washing machine I'd never noticed or have had to bear any comparison of what was the only cycle on my timer if two, the other being Permanent Press of my old machine, so to me, nothing to really say...

-- Dave
 
spin dryer instead of extra rinse?

I have a Maytag mvwp575gw and a Speed Queen TC5--both can do full-tub rinses. I find that using a spin dryer (Ninja or Panda) not only removes extra water from clothes before line or machine drying but also seems to get out some detergent that may have been left behind after that rinse. When I empty the bucket under the spin dryer, there usually is some residue in there too. The machines I have are some of the better top loads for cleaning because of the different agitation levels, full tub wash/rinse fills, water temps, etc. However, these top loads only spin between 700 and 800 rpm--not as fast as a front load.

I usually use Tide powder (regular or bleach) or Persil liquid (stain or intense fresh). For a full load, I use between line 3 and 4. For a half load, I use between line 2 and 3. I've not noticed build-up in the washer when I've had to take them apart. Sometimes I will add a squirt of Dawn (to outdoor work or white clothes). I use oxi-clean in the wash cycle and Lysol sanitizer in rinse cycle instead of bleach most of the time. I don't use fabric softener in the wash or dryer sheets.

I don't know if that will cut down the number of rinses for others, but I do know the spin dryer reduces the amount of time to line or machine dry. I also dry at a lower temp, which seems to make my clothes last longer.
 
New Maytag

I just bought a Maytag like the member above, I used their picture. It was doing all kinds on wonky things. Towel and bulky setting, it would run the water a little bit, not even enough to have standing water in the bottom, then start washing with the impeller with no water for five minutes, then it would eventually fill and continue on. I did a calibration according to the service manual, and it fixed all the problems with the water level and temperature.

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