toploadloyalist
Well-known member
I had neighbors in the 70's with a c.1969 GE washer that continued agitating with the lid open. Any idea when the open lids first stopped agitation?
Dream Machine: WWA 9500L
- Thread starter bajaespuma
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2 TOLs, essentially, that year
We had a WWA8500N for a while in a house we sold in the late '70's. What was wonderful about that model is that it had EVERY feature the TOL WWA 9500 had including timed bleach and fabric softener dispensers and a unique dry detergent dispenser that looked like a blue Jupiter 2. Sadly, the all-blue washbasket was ditched that year and even the TOLs had speckled porcelain.
The problem with that machine was a sample defect: something loose inside the Activator that made it squeak/squawk LOUDLY during agitation. I visited the house recently and, although the washing machine had been replaced, its dryer mate was still going strong after 35 years.
We had a WWA8500N for a while in a house we sold in the late '70's. What was wonderful about that model is that it had EVERY feature the TOL WWA 9500 had including timed bleach and fabric softener dispensers and a unique dry detergent dispenser that looked like a blue Jupiter 2. Sadly, the all-blue washbasket was ditched that year and even the TOLs had speckled porcelain.
The problem with that machine was a sample defect: something loose inside the Activator that made it squeak/squawk LOUDLY during agitation. I visited the house recently and, although the washing machine had been replaced, its dryer mate was still going strong after 35 years.
scrubflex
Well-known member
I love the 72' WWA-9600N and the WWA-8500N but, I like being able to have full control of all the switches...not that you would use the cold wash/warm rinse option but, it's there. The best feature is the built-in 'timed fabric softener' dispenser, add it in and leave it alone, soooo cool. These are pics of the slate-gray speckled porcelain tub that's used in these washers.
COLD wah,WARM rinse?
IIRC you can't do that on any Filter-Flo I've ever used. If you select a COLD wash, you're always going to get a COLD rinse unless you go back to the machine and change the wash temperature.
IIRC you can't do that on any Filter-Flo I've ever used. If you select a COLD wash, you're always going to get a COLD rinse unless you go back to the machine and change the wash temperature.
Cold Wash- Warm Rinse
While few people would ever use this combination, many AWs allowed this combination, including many GE FFs with separate temperature control levers for wash and rinse temperatures.
While few people would ever use this combination, many AWs allowed this combination, including many GE FFs with separate temperature control levers for wash and rinse temperatures.
WARM rinse could be had, at least on a filterflo, with a COLD wash.....according to the directions, after the first fill, the wash temp had to be changed to Warm or Hot....otherwise Cold was the rinse temp by default....
Back to the Switches. I bit the bullet and removed the OPTIONS selectors from the back of the control panel. First several shots of the back of it because the colors of the wires differ from what is listed on the Schematic:
After several days applying Teflon spray, graphite lock de-icer and lots of heat from the sun, I finally got the buttons to move. Then I took a good look at this thing...
Once I've removed the switch bank, it dawns on me that this is the same switching unit that GE used on its stoves only here with 4 buttons where, on a GE stove, there would have been 6: HI, 2, 3, LO, WM and OFF. On this bank, the "HI" and "OFF" on each side haven't been installed and, of course, the leads correspond to other functions.
The brown wire with the white stripes attached to lead#6 goes directly to the lid switch; they're both on the same serial circuit so if either is open, no spin. The other wire is supposed to be orange according to the schematic, but I'm going to have to back-trace it:
The brown wire with the white stripes attached to lead#6 goes directly to the lid switch; they're both on the same serial circuit so if either is open, no spin. The other wire is supposed to be orange according to the schematic, but I'm going to have to back-trace it:
