Washer model plate
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Early 806's
- Thread starter qsd-dan
- Start date
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Those dryer shots make me really nostalgic for the wonderful DG806 we used to have. What a beautiful set of machines. They are my ideal pair.
Condition update
Yesterday I spent the day working on the machines in a very general way.
- I got the washer lint filter clean by soaking the plastic part in vinegar overnight (the metal is fine) and then scrubbing it in hot dishwater using an old toothbrush. It cleaned up very nicely.
- The washer will be needing some work on the motor glides and/or springs and possibly a new set of belts. When I put full of a load of whites in it took quite a bit of coaxing to get it to agitate even moderately. The spin was pretty anemic. I ended up transferring the VERY wet laundry to another machine to spin it out again before putting it in the dryer.
- Somewhere along the line the pump was replaced and whoever did that did not reconnect the bleach dispenser "dilution" hose to the pump. I can see a plastic "stub" on the top of the pump where I think this should go. Is it as simple as drilling a small hole in the indentation in that stub and reconnecing the hose to the bleach dispenser?
- Other than those issues and a thorough cosmetic "spa" treatment I think the machine is in VERY good shape. Tub bearing seems quiet and stable, no leaks, tub brake seems tight, no indexing during agitation (although I supppose that could change when the agitation is up to snuff.) I am particularly impressed with the SUBSTANTIAL feel of the timer knob when you turn it. It just has this feel of quality that I have rarely experienced.
Now the dryer:
- There is problem somewhere in the electronics with the shut off. The only setting that seems to work properly is DAMP DRY. When the dryer is empty, DAMP dry shuts off within about 5 seconds. When I put the full load of whites in on DAMP DRY, it ran normally and shut off after about 45 minutes and the load was appropriately damp. When I tried "REGULAR" with the machine empty it ran for 20 minutes before I finally intervened. With the damp whites in, I pushed REGULAR and let it run for about 20 minutes before checking. They were definitely DRY. From the literature I have looked at, this sounds like a fairly common problem with this electronic control. Ben, Gregg, Dan - thoughts?
Yesterday I spent the day working on the machines in a very general way.
- I got the washer lint filter clean by soaking the plastic part in vinegar overnight (the metal is fine) and then scrubbing it in hot dishwater using an old toothbrush. It cleaned up very nicely.
- The washer will be needing some work on the motor glides and/or springs and possibly a new set of belts. When I put full of a load of whites in it took quite a bit of coaxing to get it to agitate even moderately. The spin was pretty anemic. I ended up transferring the VERY wet laundry to another machine to spin it out again before putting it in the dryer.
- Somewhere along the line the pump was replaced and whoever did that did not reconnect the bleach dispenser "dilution" hose to the pump. I can see a plastic "stub" on the top of the pump where I think this should go. Is it as simple as drilling a small hole in the indentation in that stub and reconnecing the hose to the bleach dispenser?
- Other than those issues and a thorough cosmetic "spa" treatment I think the machine is in VERY good shape. Tub bearing seems quiet and stable, no leaks, tub brake seems tight, no indexing during agitation (although I supppose that could change when the agitation is up to snuff.) I am particularly impressed with the SUBSTANTIAL feel of the timer knob when you turn it. It just has this feel of quality that I have rarely experienced.
Now the dryer:
- There is problem somewhere in the electronics with the shut off. The only setting that seems to work properly is DAMP DRY. When the dryer is empty, DAMP dry shuts off within about 5 seconds. When I put the full load of whites in on DAMP DRY, it ran normally and shut off after about 45 minutes and the load was appropriately damp. When I tried "REGULAR" with the machine empty it ran for 20 minutes before I finally intervened. With the damp whites in, I pushed REGULAR and let it run for about 20 minutes before checking. They were definitely DRY. From the literature I have looked at, this sounds like a fairly common problem with this electronic control. Ben, Gregg, Dan - thoughts?
Like timers, the Maytag Electronic Control module does get blamed for many issues since it controls everything the dryer does, and they do go bad.
However, there are a few other things that could go wrong as well - grounding issues, dirty baffles, broken wires, etc. Follow the steps outlined on the five pages below for the wire wrapped baffles (wire wrapped baffles are from 1961- early 1969). I've also included the checks for the bar baffles in case someone uses this in the future for HOH dryers made up to 1975.
(BTW - both the washer and dryer were made in March of 1967).
However, there are a few other things that could go wrong as well - grounding issues, dirty baffles, broken wires, etc. Follow the steps outlined on the five pages below for the wire wrapped baffles (wire wrapped baffles are from 1961- early 1969). I've also included the checks for the bar baffles in case someone uses this in the future for HOH dryers made up to 1975.
(BTW - both the washer and dryer were made in March of 1967).
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ELECTRONIC MT HOH DRYERS
On the original wire wound drum baffle machines like you have they would often do this as they age. Dan suggested replacing the large capacitor on the electronic control, this may work? But I have often clipped the wires going to one or even two of the drum baffles and the machine will then work fine. There many other things that you may want to check such as grounding of the dryer, also clean the baffles with rubbing alcohol.
Mark it is usually best when you have problems with older machines to ask folks that work on machines for a living and people old enough to remember such machines LOL.
On the original wire wound drum baffle machines like you have they would often do this as they age. Dan suggested replacing the large capacitor on the electronic control, this may work? But I have often clipped the wires going to one or even two of the drum baffles and the machine will then work fine. There many other things that you may want to check such as grounding of the dryer, also clean the baffles with rubbing alcohol.
Mark it is usually best when you have problems with older machines to ask folks that work on machines for a living and people old enough to remember such machines LOL.
The washer will be needing some work on the motor glides and/or springs and possibly a new set of belts. When I put full of a load of whites in it took quite a bit of coaxing to get it to agitate even moderately. The spin was pretty anemic. I ended up transferring the VERY wet laundry to another machine to spin it out again before putting it in the dryer.
Yeah, replacing the belts, glides/springs, and lubricating the pump is SOP for any machine I procure. Replacing brake packages is becoming an additional step these days for me.
Somewhere along the line the pump was replaced and whoever did that did not reconnect the bleach dispenser "dilution" hose to the pump. I can see a plastic "stub" on the top of the pump where I think this should go. Is it as simple as drilling a small hole in the indentation in that stub and reconnecting the hose to the bleach dispenser?
Yes. Actually, the pre-FSP pumps had the diameter drill bit to use right on the package. I forget what the exact drill bit diameter is at this moment, but 5/16 keeps popping into my head.
I am particularly impressed with the SUBSTANTIAL feel of the timer knob when you turn it. It just has this feel of quality that I have rarely experienced.
Sounds like you have a Mallory timer. Mallory timers have a very "notchy" feel to them. There are a few 203182 Kingston timers for this machine on Ebay that you may want to swipe for the future.
There is problem somewhere in the electronics with the shut off. The only setting that seems to work properly is DAMP DRY. When the dryer is empty, DAMP dry shuts off within about 5 seconds. When I put the full load of whites in on DAMP DRY, it ran normally and shut off after about 45 minutes and the load was appropriately damp. When I tried "REGULAR" with the machine empty it ran for 20 minutes before I finally intervened. With the damp whites in, I pushed REGULAR and let it run for about 20 minutes before checking. They were definitely DRY. From the literature I have looked at, this sounds like a fairly common problem with this electronic control. Ben, Gregg, Dan - thoughts?
5 second shut-off for an empty drum on "Damp Dry" is a little too early. Should be 7-17 sec. Maytag had 2 electronic control units for the 606/806/906. I've only worked the common 303049 ones, so I'm guessing the uncommon 302472 are for the early units?? Not sure if they're interchangeable or not but it wouldn't surprise me if they actually are interchangeable.
Start by checking the condition of the slip ring and brush. Make sure the slip ring is clean and the brush has enough "meat" on it. From there, replace the original electrolytic capacitor on top of the elect. unit with a film cap of the same specs. Sometimes the original capacitor is covered by a rubber sheath that you must remove to get the farad and voltage ratings. If all else fails, both style electronic control units are currently available on ebay in new/unused condition.
Yeah, replacing the belts, glides/springs, and lubricating the pump is SOP for any machine I procure. Replacing brake packages is becoming an additional step these days for me.
Somewhere along the line the pump was replaced and whoever did that did not reconnect the bleach dispenser "dilution" hose to the pump. I can see a plastic "stub" on the top of the pump where I think this should go. Is it as simple as drilling a small hole in the indentation in that stub and reconnecting the hose to the bleach dispenser?
Yes. Actually, the pre-FSP pumps had the diameter drill bit to use right on the package. I forget what the exact drill bit diameter is at this moment, but 5/16 keeps popping into my head.
I am particularly impressed with the SUBSTANTIAL feel of the timer knob when you turn it. It just has this feel of quality that I have rarely experienced.
Sounds like you have a Mallory timer. Mallory timers have a very "notchy" feel to them. There are a few 203182 Kingston timers for this machine on Ebay that you may want to swipe for the future.
There is problem somewhere in the electronics with the shut off. The only setting that seems to work properly is DAMP DRY. When the dryer is empty, DAMP dry shuts off within about 5 seconds. When I put the full load of whites in on DAMP DRY, it ran normally and shut off after about 45 minutes and the load was appropriately damp. When I tried "REGULAR" with the machine empty it ran for 20 minutes before I finally intervened. With the damp whites in, I pushed REGULAR and let it run for about 20 minutes before checking. They were definitely DRY. From the literature I have looked at, this sounds like a fairly common problem with this electronic control. Ben, Gregg, Dan - thoughts?
5 second shut-off for an empty drum on "Damp Dry" is a little too early. Should be 7-17 sec. Maytag had 2 electronic control units for the 606/806/906. I've only worked the common 303049 ones, so I'm guessing the uncommon 302472 are for the early units?? Not sure if they're interchangeable or not but it wouldn't surprise me if they actually are interchangeable.
Start by checking the condition of the slip ring and brush. Make sure the slip ring is clean and the brush has enough "meat" on it. From there, replace the original electrolytic capacitor on top of the elect. unit with a film cap of the same specs. Sometimes the original capacitor is covered by a rubber sheath that you must remove to get the farad and voltage ratings. If all else fails, both style electronic control units are currently available on ebay in new/unused condition.
Congratulations Dan! Very nice set!
I am just finishing an 806 gas dryer, and had to do quite a bit of restoration on the wiring. The connectors just corroded away to nothing in some areas. I converted this dryer to electronic ignition, because I don't want the wiring problems to come back again. My dryer is working fine now. I wonder if you need to do some cleaning to the connections inside the dryer, selector switch and control module? I had to a few hours worth of wiring/connector repair to make this dryer work right. I think tight corrosion free connections are very important for the electronic control to work as it should.
Best of luck with your classic Maytag set!
I am just finishing an 806 gas dryer, and had to do quite a bit of restoration on the wiring. The connectors just corroded away to nothing in some areas. I converted this dryer to electronic ignition, because I don't want the wiring problems to come back again. My dryer is working fine now. I wonder if you need to do some cleaning to the connections inside the dryer, selector switch and control module? I had to a few hours worth of wiring/connector repair to make this dryer work right. I think tight corrosion free connections are very important for the electronic control to work as it should.
Best of luck with your classic Maytag set!
Mark - here are the requested scans:
Dryer operation page 1
Dryer operation page 2
HOH ELECTRONIC DRY GAS DRYERS
When we used to see the electronic dryers that had a lot of corrosion from the byproducts of combustion caused by the constantly burning pilot I would solder the individual terminals on the circuit board to the board. This trick restored several HOH electronic gas dryers to proper operation that MT Service of Washington told owners could not be fixed.
Rick please post pictures of your electric ignition conversion, I started one on a pink 741C dryer last year but it got side tracked by the washer convention. I used the burner assembly from a newer early 1980s MT gas dryer, I will finish the assembly and post pictures of the results when I can get it back into my test shop where we have gas connections.
If anyone wants a pink fully restored MT gas dryer model 741C let me know although Bob of Hollywood will have the first crack at it as he helped me get the project started last year..
When we used to see the electronic dryers that had a lot of corrosion from the byproducts of combustion caused by the constantly burning pilot I would solder the individual terminals on the circuit board to the board. This trick restored several HOH electronic gas dryers to proper operation that MT Service of Washington told owners could not be fixed.
Rick please post pictures of your electric ignition conversion, I started one on a pink 741C dryer last year but it got side tracked by the washer convention. I used the burner assembly from a newer early 1980s MT gas dryer, I will finish the assembly and post pictures of the results when I can get it back into my test shop where we have gas connections.
If anyone wants a pink fully restored MT gas dryer model 741C let me know although Bob of Hollywood will have the first crack at it as he helped me get the project started last year..
Thanks guys!
Ben - Thanks for the great scans of the original service literature.
John - That's a great suggestion about soldering the connections, thanks!
This will be a fun project.
Ben - Thanks for the great scans of the original service literature.
John - That's a great suggestion about soldering the connections, thanks!
This will be a fun project.
Glad to hear you got that Avocado set for your aunt up and running, Rick!
rll70sman
Well-known member
Purchase invoice
Great washer and dryer! Love the nostalgic handwritten invoice! Note how there was no sales tax charged. This set was purchased just prior to passage of the Minnesota sales and use tax law, which took effect August 1, 1967 at a mere 3 percent.
Great washer and dryer! Love the nostalgic handwritten invoice! Note how there was no sales tax charged. This set was purchased just prior to passage of the Minnesota sales and use tax law, which took effect August 1, 1967 at a mere 3 percent.
