Early Inglis Belt Drive Set

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Hi Melvin and John - thanks so much for the insight. Melvin, that spring definitely didn't come out of the old seal. I took the bearings and seals out quite sometime before I put the new ones in and had cleaned up the floor several times in between. I'm quite certain it came out of the seal for the upper bearing then. If you don't mind me asking, does it just sit on the outside of that lip and is there anything you can see holding it in place like a groove or another lip? From looking from the top of the seal does it just sit near the top or farther down near the bottom?

I'll attempt to reseat it but I doubt I'll be able to get it in with the bearing in the way. If I cant, as John suggested I'll just leave it and see what happens.
 
Thanks so much for going to the trouble of taking that photo Melvin. This is super helpful for me to understand if and how I could slip it back in. Based on what I'm seeing chances are probably slim to none but I'll give it a shot. Wish me luck!

Thanks again
 
I got it in!

Thank you again Melvin for those pictures. I thought about it for a bit and your picture inspired me to fashion a little tool by bending a picture hanger. I used the tool to push the lip down enough to hook the spring back into that ridge it sits in and repeated that in several spots along the circumference. Once it was sitting in the ridge in enough spots it sort of popped itself back into place. It was tricky because the bearing was in the way so a screwdriver or anything else wasn't really working because of the angle.

It probably doesn't serve much of a function like you mentioned John, the outside lip doesn't really feel more rigid or substantial with spring back in but just the same with all the work I've put into this thing I'm glad I won't find out for sure!

Thank you both so much once again!

More updates to come!
 
Long overdue update on the washer and will post pictures once all is said and done and a more detailed description of what I did. Everything is mostly back together now and good news is the timer seems to function perfectly so far.

In the meantime, I know I've asked before but thought I would try one more time - does anyone happen to have either of these knobs kicking around that they would be willing to part with (or even anything close)? Both were missing when I got the machines.

The first is the water level knob for the washer. Its a bit unique in that the required stem length is longer than most knobs I've come across. In addition, it has the settings printed on the knob itself vs the control panel. It fits a standard "D" shaped water level switch shaft. I've attached a few snips to show what the original would have looked like.

The second is the dryer control knob. I've attached a picture of the washer control knob - it would have been the same on the front and the back stem also fits onto a standard "D" shaft.

I'd be eternally grateful if anyone could come up with either of these, particularly the water level knob. The washer is otherwise complete and so this would be the last missing piece. Happy to pay whatever you think it would be worth and of course any shipping cost.

Thanks in advance!

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Hi Everyone,

Just wanted to share an update on these. I've moved onto working on the dryer. You might recall my plan is to convert the dryer to electric and so have been looking for a long time to find an electric version of an old style WP dryer to use as a parts donor.

My dryer is the very early version of the WP dryer (I'll call it type 1 for the purposes of this message) with the pulley system, perforated back etc. At some point in the early 1960s, (at least in the US) this design was modified to eliminate the pulleys (type 2) before they abandoned the design altogether in favor of the current 29" WP dryer in 66 (68 in Canada I believe).

These pre 1966/1968 dryers just never show up in my neck of the woods, however I did happen to come across a 1967 Soft Heat Kenmore which is the type 2 design described above.

In addition to differences in the mechanicals, the cabinet is completely different as well and so I can't just swap the control panels. My plan is to just remove the heater and the motor from the type 2 and install it in my type 1.

I know this is a stretch but wondering if anyone has a copy of a wiring diagram of the electric Whirlpool version of my dryer that they could share. I don't know what the dryer model number would have been but the matching WP washer was W6004800 I believe. If I can get my hands on this wiring diagram I think it would help considerably with getting this project done!

I've attached a copy of the wiring diagram for the gas version and a photo of the dryer that I'm using as a parts donor as well plus a couple other pics showing the backs of both.

Thanks in advance and wish me luck!

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Converting a 1960 whirlpool built gas dryer to electric

You may be able to use the heater box from the one pictured if it physically fits and then you just need a heat relay and wire one leg of the 240 V through the safety thermostat on the heater box and you should be good to go.

Take the heater box out of the gas dryer and see if the entire heater box from the electric dryer will fit, if it doesn’t fit, I might have a complete heater box for one of those early electric dryers here somewhere.

I would save all the gas parts just in case your living situation ever changes and you are in a place with natural gas. It could be converted back easily.

I would not be as keen on using propane it very expensive and more dangerous than natural gas.
John
 
Thanks so much for your help John. This one has me a bit stumped, partially because I don't understand the operation of gas valves very well. When I disconnect the gas valve I'm left with 3 wires as shown on the wiring diagram. I know this is where I need to connect the heater but can't seem to wrap my head around how to connect

Another twist with this is the heating element is a dual wattage so there is three terminals. On the Inglis dryer, the high/low temperature is controlled by the timer (as seen on the filter lid) although there is an air/heat switch on the control panel to turn off the heater.

The final twist is I need to use the motor from the donor machine, this has 5 terminals vs the existing motor having 4.

I'll have to figure out a relay as well - is there one you can recommend or the specs I should look for?

The heater box does fit from the type 2 dryer onto the type 1 dryer. The only difference is it sits a bit more proud on the dryer it came from vs the dryer its going into due to some welded brackets on the back but I don't think this will be an issue.

Thanks so much!
 
Be sure to oil the drum bearing to make sure everything is well lubricated to keep everything operating smoothly. Don’t know what the lubricating process is like on these older Whirlpool dryers, but I imagine it’s similar to a Maytag HOH dryer.
 
Just a quick update - starting to get this dryer buttoned up. I painted over some rusty areas and cleaned up a few others. That felt seal around the exhaust doesn't have much life yet but I think I might be able to use a aftermarket universal dryer seal to make a new one.

Still struggling a bit with the wiring piece but once that is figured out it should be good to go!

Another plug for anyone that might have a wiring diagram for the electric version of this dryer or something close - I'd be super grateful :)

Thanks everyone!

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Early Whirlpool, gas dryer conversion to electric

Hi James, yes the machine is looking great.

It’s fairly easy to convert from gas to electric you’ve already done the most difficult part installing the heater assembly.

You need to get a 120 V coil relay that can handle at least 25 A and connect the power to the coil on the relay to the 1V and 3V wires That went to the burner assembly.

Connect the motor up the way it was before even though there are five wires on the replacement motor you only use for you might have to install a jumper.

If you still have the wiring harness from the electric dryer, you took the heater from installed the terminal block and use some of the heavy wiring that’s attached to it going down to the heater. You will wire relay on one side of the line let’s say L one and you’ll wire L2 through the high limit thermostat at the bottom of the heater box to the common wire of the three terminals on the heater the other two terminals get tied together.

It might be easier if you call me. I’m around this afternoon if you like, I can go over a little bit more detail.

But it’s pretty easy to do we converted Paul Chaks’s 1965 Kenmore dryer from gas to electric and I’ve done many others. I’ve also converted quite a few electric ones as needed.

John
 
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