Blast from the past.
Anyone?
https://hibid.com/lot/230932930/eaton-viking-stackable-washer-and-dryer-set?ref=lot-list
Anyone?
https://hibid.com/lot/230932930/eaton-viking-stackable-washer-and-dryer-set?ref=lot-list
Eaton Viking Stacked W&D Set
- Thread starter launderess
- Start date
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You don't See These
Very often anymore!
I bought this exact set when I bought my first house! Awesome set, loved mine.
They also came in other brands: Kelvinator, White Westinghouse, Philco, and Bendix.
If I remember correctly, they were made in Italy, either by Philco Italia or Merloni.
Certainly 110v parts would be unattainable at this late date. I remember having to replace my pump 2x in about a 10 yr span. Also the plastic opening handle on the washer and dryer were quite "plasticky"
Thanks for posting!
Guy
Very often anymore!
I bought this exact set when I bought my first house! Awesome set, loved mine.
They also came in other brands: Kelvinator, White Westinghouse, Philco, and Bendix.
If I remember correctly, they were made in Italy, either by Philco Italia or Merloni.
Certainly 110v parts would be unattainable at this late date. I remember having to replace my pump 2x in about a 10 yr span. Also the plastic opening handle on the washer and dryer were quite "plasticky"
Thanks for posting!
Guy
24 inch compact stacked laundry from the 80s
We saw quite a few of these with the Philco name on them they were made in Italy as guy mentioned above. They had their weak spots. The dryers were particularly poor and durability.
Hi Guy , why do you think it would be harder to get 120 V parts than 240 V parts for these machines at this time probably both would be hard to get but it should be fairly easy to substitute something like a 120 V pump for example or inlet valve if you try to keep one going here in North America.
John
We saw quite a few of these with the Philco name on them they were made in Italy as guy mentioned above. They had their weak spots. The dryers were particularly poor and durability.
Hi Guy , why do you think it would be harder to get 120 V parts than 240 V parts for these machines at this time probably both would be hard to get but it should be fairly easy to substitute something like a 120 V pump for example or inlet valve if you try to keep one going here in North America.
John
Thats true
John, I never thought about using generic brands for pump or inlet valves. You've now made this more tempting!
John, I never thought about using generic brands for pump or inlet valves. You've now made this more tempting!
Our first front loading washer "Malber" was a rebadged Philco import from Merloni Italy. Will go out on a limb to say spares for such machines likely will suit this Eaton Viking washer.
https://www.buyspares.com/malber/shop.pl
https://www.buyspares.com/malber/shop.pl
Well, well
You've done it again Madam! If I recall, we also may have had Malber here too.
My last venture with Hibid didn't go well, so if I can ask, what is a soft close?
Is it best to just get in my maximum amount I want to pay, and leave it at that? If I remember from last time, sniping doesn't work.
Guy
You've done it again Madam! If I recall, we also may have had Malber here too.
My last venture with Hibid didn't go well, so if I can ask, what is a soft close?
Is it best to just get in my maximum amount I want to pay, and leave it at that? If I remember from last time, sniping doesn't work.
Guy
"Is it best to just get in my maximum amount I want to pay, and leave it at that? If I remember from last time, sniping doesn't work."
There are two schools of thought on this as it relates to HiBid.
In theory yes, one can (and or should) simply bid highest amount willing to pay and wait to see if outbid.
HiBid's "soft close" means any bids that happen within final four to three minutes cause auction to restart for another three/four minutes. This allows anyone outbid to up the ante. This will continue long as bids are received within final three or so minutes.
However, it isn't wise to wait until final one minute or so as auction will begin closing (similar to "going once, going twice...., at live auctions). IIRC previous time at bat you waited until final minute or so to bid which was too late.
On bidding highest amount and walking away... Some do say certain auctions on HiBid use shill bidders to drive up prices if they believe something is going for too little money. Myself have not seen evidence of this but people do speak of it online and apparently such bidding is legal.
Once you have registered and entered a bid and provided have set your HiBid profile to do so you'll receive an email or text alert when outbid. This will be at anytime before "soft close" and or right through once that system has been activated.
Personally if it's something one really wants tend to watch final minutes action to see what's going on. May up my bid during "soft close" to see if other bidders have any moxie on the ball.
Usual caveat applies: bid with your head, not over it.
There are two schools of thought on this as it relates to HiBid.
In theory yes, one can (and or should) simply bid highest amount willing to pay and wait to see if outbid.
HiBid's "soft close" means any bids that happen within final four to three minutes cause auction to restart for another three/four minutes. This allows anyone outbid to up the ante. This will continue long as bids are received within final three or so minutes.
However, it isn't wise to wait until final one minute or so as auction will begin closing (similar to "going once, going twice...., at live auctions). IIRC previous time at bat you waited until final minute or so to bid which was too late.
On bidding highest amount and walking away... Some do say certain auctions on HiBid use shill bidders to drive up prices if they believe something is going for too little money. Myself have not seen evidence of this but people do speak of it online and apparently such bidding is legal.
Once you have registered and entered a bid and provided have set your HiBid profile to do so you'll receive an email or text alert when outbid. This will be at anytime before "soft close" and or right through once that system has been activated.
Personally if it's something one really wants tend to watch final minutes action to see what's going on. May up my bid during "soft close" to see if other bidders have any moxie on the ball.
Usual caveat applies: bid with your head, not over it.
