Eureka F & G Disassembly Question

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doityrselfguy

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Dec 4, 2004
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Hi - I recently picked up an older Eureka upright which runs just fine, but I'd like to take it apart for cleaning. I'm almost there, but the bolt in the center of the Dial-A-Nap knob will not budge. It's the last piece keeping the top metal housing connected to the plastic base. Does anyone know the secret? I've sprayed it with WD40, but am wondering if this is really a screw, or some type of pin. Thanks!
 
it IS a screw. if it has the torx head make sure you are using the right size bit and use brute force if you have to. does this model use a Heavy duty style motor with twin ball bearings and the carbons positioned immediately below the cooling fan? i love the old 3.5 amp eurekas with the heavy duty motor. why not show us a pic?
 
Here it is. I bought a brand new outer bag housing, fan, and brush roll for it. I'll keep trying on that screw...thanks!
 
Also, I haven't seen the actual motor yet, but it is a 4.0 amp, and the fan blades are a standard 3/4" (I think the ESP models had a larger fan). Just from memory, I'm guessing it's a late-'80s, early '90s model. Got this on E-bay from a good seller.
 
Thats an early-middle 80's model

That bolt for the dial-a-nap is torx head, and should come right out, esepcially on a plastic based machine.
You're right on the smaller fan too, the blades were shorter.
That 4.0 amp motor is very small, about the size of a blender motor....
 
Upright Cleaners (hoover speak)

is this your first "vintage vacuum"? if you want to talk vacuums, please email. what kind of brushroll did you get? and what bag did you choose? i like the looks of that model you bought but its not one of eurekas best made models. unfortunately eureka began to cheapen their uprights in the 70s. if you like to repair things you can easily upgrade that eureka you got. David
 
F&G seires

These vac are what I call direct air vacs and the Hoover convirtable models and in my opion are the best vacs ever made. Why is that well that is because as the dust bag fills
it still maintains 100% suction power as the fan throws dirt up into the bag instead of trying to suck air through a dirt cloged bag as in a clean air system vac. They really are the best vacs on the market, for the money.

 
I can agree with Norgeman-the direct air-dirty air system is still best and most efficient.-the fan pushing air and dirt into the bag.Royal "Everlast","classic" uprights still use this system-and Kirby still uses it.The National Super Suction Model M1 "canister" vac uses the direct air system as well-but with a modification-a large "scrap trap" area in the "snout" of the vac to trap large heavy items so they don't get into the fan.Despite it my M1's have ingested coins,conduit box slugs,nails,without fan damage.I have seen Royals with 3A motors outclean "clean air" system vacs with 12A motors!also-the direct air vac's suction system is closer to the surface being cleaned-doesn't have to move air thru hoses,tubes,bags and filters to the area being cleaned.
 
The air still has to be moving freely through the bag. All vacuums use moving air to get the dirt from the floor to the bag, some vacuums just put the fan between the two.
 
Hi all -

I finally got that torx head screw out (thanks for the tip), gave it a good cleaning, and bought some new parts for it. I was surprised at how easy it was. Once the motor housing was removed, I cheated a bit and put the entire blue base in the dishwasher - it did an excellent job on all the nooks and crannies! I've decided after-the-fact to install a new power cord since the old one is discolored from age. In the meantime, here are some pictures.

The new fan, brush and outer bag with the cleaned motor housing and base:
 
I tried uploading the other pictures, but they come in too big. How can I make them smaller when they upload (I can change sizes in my own files, just not here). Does anyone know?
 
what i do

putting it in the dishwasher is a clever trick. if your plastic base looks rough or dull use some mothers aluminum polish on it. the polish is "massaged" into the surface, esp rough areas. i then follow up with good ole car wax, like turtle. your cleaner will look new.
 
plastic

A friend of mine told me about his method when I remarked about how shiny the hoods of his Hoover Convertibles were.
He uses BRASSO metal polish on the plastic hoods, and it makes them sparkle.
Now when I clean plastic, I remove the marks and scuffs with super-fine steel wool. I the follow with BRASSO, rubbing in circular motion, then back and forth. Apply with an ordinary paper towel. Wipe/buff the piece with a soft cloth and it will shine like new.
If not shiny enough, hit it again! The more you use it, the better the shine.
 
If this site is saying your picture files are too big then you do have to go back to your own files and resize the original picture smaller and save the changes, then when you come back on here, make sure you choose the smaller picture you resized. Resizing down to 50% usually does the trick for me.
 
Back together, like new and purring like a kitten.....thanks for the polishing tips, I didn't think of that!

Still having issues with the sizing - I can do all the manipulation and resizing in the actual picture file, but can't seem to get them into the thread here at, say, 3x5 inches. Oh well...
 

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