Filter-Flo Spin Question

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Nice Machine.

I have always been a big fan of the GE Filter-Flo machines. This makes me want to run out and find one to rebuild myself.

Thanks for the videos.

MRB
 
filter flo

I agree I am wanting a filter flo they were the best and I miss Dash detergent that is what my mother used and it was a great combo the next best was a filter flo and Tide powder that is what I used.Great machine enjoy
 
Bearing and shoe numbers

tristarcxl I will really appreciate if you post the number of both parts. I also want to rebuilt my EASY filter flo 2 speed clutch since it´s a 20 year old washer and makes a knocking noise on low speed agitation and spin. My EASY is the large capacity. I don´t know if this affects the spinning speed. It makes the little cascades at the back of the white gasket, but not as much as yours and it takes a while to get to the highest speed, but never as your GE. When clothes come out they are not dripping wet but not damp. If I throw them to my Whirlpool Catalyst, it will take more water out of the clothes which means I´m not having the top spin speed this washer can get because Whirlpool seams to have the same spin speed, maybe a little higher (640 RPM), but I think there shouldn´t be this huge difference. I changed the motor first of all so it could not be a motor issue. I found the 1/2 hp and runs really quiet. I love this machine but want a clutch mantainance. I hope you can help us!!!!!
 
GE Part Numbers...

Here's the GE part numbers:

Thrust Bearing Kit (Plastic and bronze spacers inside clutch): WH4X91

Clutch Shoe Set (Set of 2): WH7X110

The dates of manufacture on the kits I bought were 5/20/99 and 8/31/01 respectively. I don't know if GE still makes the parts or not, but at least now you know what to ask for!

The upper bearing can be cleaned out and repacked with grease in place. Once you have the clutch apart, remove the snap ring that holds the upper bearing in place. Chances are the bearing will be "stuck", but you can restore the bearing in place. Take a sharp knife and pry up towards the center on the rubber seal and work the blade around. The seal should pop up and you can take it right out. Be careful not to bend it! It does contain a small metal ring inside it that is easily bent if you're not careful.

Soak the top half in solvent to get the old nasty grease out. Once you've gotten all the old grease out of the bearing, make sure it's nice and dry. Pack the bearing with a good quality wheel-bearing grease and make sure you get it behind the ball spacer! I packed mine very tightly with grease. Be sure to spin the bearing several times to work grease throughout the bearing races. Clean up the excess and replace the seal and snap ring.

When replacing the clutch shoes, make sure that the shafts are polished and free of grime. Use some Acetone or laquer thinner if you need to in order to make sure those shafts are SPOTLESS! Before you put the new shoes on, put a drop or 3 of 3-in-1 SAE20 Motor oil on the bronze bushings to keep them from seizing in the future.

For a short dissertation on WHY I say to use this type of oil, see post 22574 in the Pink forum. The thread involves a GE Mobile Maid, but the same rules apply since bronze bearings are at play here!

For anyone interested, I documented the reassembly process in a Flickr photo album. I've commented on the pictures so you know what you're looking at. See the link below...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ttuee2006/sets/72157619027531311/
 
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