Fisher&Paykel GWL11 to IWL12 Conversion gone horribly wrong.

[maytagneptune]

dryer durability.

I know these are not the most durable but they are the coolest dryers ever made. The world's only large capacity top load dryer.

I'm also surprised that Glenn/DADoESofTX has not replied yet.

 

[DADoES]

 
Fault code recorded?

Check for loose objects in the drum, and run it empty to isolate the clicking from clothes tumbling noises.  Note that the drum baffles are not removable in case something has slipped under/into one of them.

Run it on Air Dry to check if the clicking still occurs without heat.  If so, check amperage or current on the elements to determine if relays for them are flipping on/off.

Run it with the top deck raised or the front panel removed (advise to lower the top deck into position so the side panels are stablized without the front panel) to perhaps help pinpoint the location of the noise if it's mechanical.

Edit:  If not, check amperage or current on the elements to determine if relays for them are flipping on/off.[this post was last edited: 7/25/2021-14:26]

 

[maytagneptune]

Replies #5 and #6

I feel there should be a warning to swap in a PH7 Rotor and Stator. The Reflashed/Revised PH7 Board cannot handle the electrical differences between the PH7 and PH6 motor. If I would have known this, I would have swapped in a PH7 Rotor and Stator and Bought the slightly cheaper IWL16 Console. The Reflashed board cannot handle the PH6 drive. I noticed the PH6 Original board and the appearance of the reflashed PH7 board were COMPLETELY Different. It appears nothing was done to the revised board to protect it from the PH6 motor hogging more current. The PH7 Stator has larger magnets. The PH7 rotor has more magnets in most cases and they are smaller than PH6 and the PH7 Stator has Larger magnets and fewer magnets. The PH6 Rotor has larger and fewer magnets than PH7. The PH6 Stator has Smaller Magnets and many more magnets than PH7.

 

[DADoES]

 
Advance to 3 mins ...

 

[maytagneptune]

Replies #17-19

Fixed the Fault. Somehow a glob of Fabric Softener got onto the drum where the door is and was blocking the optical sensor on the sensor module. My Dad discovered this by slipping a piece of political Junkmail between the sensor module and the drum and the issue occurred again. After cleaning that spot on the drum throughly. The clicking noise stopped. Hope this helps someone in the future.

 

[DADoES]

 
Curious how that could happen.  The drum door is on the curved surface of the cylinder.  Softener could possibly drip down there when the machine lid is open.   However, the optical drum position reader is located such that it's protected from access (and drips) unless the machine's top deck is raised. The embossed dimples that the optical sensor reads are on the circular side of the drum, also protected from access unless the top deck is raised.

 

[maytagneptune]

I was confused too

Yeah the Glob of Detergent or Fabric softener + Lint and other debris was right in the home position gap. The debris blocked the reflection from the drum so the optical sensor couldn't see the drum rotating. When my dad slipped the piece of junkmail between the sensor module and drum, The machine shut down but when it was removed the machine started again. The glob was just in the right spot that when the topdeck was down and screwed in it clicked but with the top deck raised, It didn't. In quick succession by slipping the junkmail in and quickly pulling it back out. It did the same thing. Since the Topdeck blocks access to that area, I also am unsure how Fabric softener got there.