Frère Jacques, Frère Jacques, I Smell Roux!

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rous, roh

Pan fry any good cut of meat at low to medium heat in a quality oil, like extra virgin olive oil, safflower oil, etc. Then add water (and/or wine) to the pan and let it simmer to loosen the flavor bits. Season to taste. Good for au jus, base for gravy, or even gumbo (never made gumbo so I can't comment on that process).

BTW, "roh" is meat in Mandarin!
 
All I can suggest

is "low and slow," and use a heavy pan, enamelled cast iron if one has one, or stainless steel with an aluminum or heavy copper bottom, if one does not.

The time I burned a roux (nasty smell, that) was when I was rushing.

Also: hot fat is one of the most dangerous substances in a kitchen. Not for nothing is roux sometimes called "Cajun Napalm." The other treacherous substance is hot sugar.

Lawrence/Maytagbear
 
Roux

Basic formula:

1 part fat
1 part flour

Cook the flour in the fat, stirring constantly, for about a minute or so. Lower heat is better.

General guide is that about 1T fat and 1T flour, cooked until lightly golden (blonde) will thicken about 1 1/2C liquid. However, the darker the roux, the higher the flavor but the lower the thickening power. Lighter roux are called blonde. Darker, mahogany (there are lots of other terms, but these are pretty common). IIRC, you want more of a mahogany roux for Gumbo, so you need to make 2x as much roux to liquid to compensate for the depleted thickening power.

If you need to thicken after it's made, you can mix some flour and cold water to a thick liquid, and wisk it into the hot gumbo. The flour taste won't cook off as nicely or quickly, but it isn't bad! Or, and I hope I have the name right, you can use a beurre manie. Mash equal parts of butter and flour together and use bits of it at a time wisked into the gumbo.

Sorry, but I haven't made gumbo from scratch, so I hope someone else has a recipe for it!

Chuck
 
I am sure JasonL will weigh in on this one, but equal parts of fat and flour, a cast iron skillet is best. Louisiana cooks start Hot, and finish their roux on low heat, after the browning of the flour many add their garlic, onions, bell pepper and kind of do a smother/sweat technique then the roux is added to the large amount of liquid stock for thickening. Sometimes a drop of Zatarains liquid crab boil is added especially if one is making a seafood dish for a house full of hungry folks. alr2903
 
Gumbo means "Okra".

To make a proper dark brown roux for a Louisiana style Gumbo, you have to cook the flour in the fat at the lowest possible heat for nearly a good two hours. Corky Clark, who was/is a fish and seafood instructor at the CIA made the best Gumbo I've ever eaten. He told me to use corn oil instead of solid fat and cooked his roux on aluminum sheet pans in a 250 F oven for and hour and a half, stirring it every 15 minutes. He was making huge amounts of it so I found it easier to do on top of the stove in a cast iron skillet on an electric burner set to a very low temperature. When it's done, the roux should be the color of Hershey's chocolate but shouldn't smell burnt. You can use lard for a more authentic taste, but it's a little harder to control. Don't forget the okra or the Gumbo file, (even if it is a little carcinogenic). Also, if you can't find good Tasso ham, go down to one of those old German butcher shops in Yorkville and get some Westphalian smoked ham.

I have Corky's recipe somewhere; I'll try to dig it out of my mess and post it. But if you're impatient, go to Epicurious.com and see if they don't have a good recipe from a bona fide N'orleans cook like Dookie Chase, Paul Prudhomme. Meanwhile, here's an industrious recipe from the Junior League Girls:

Seafood Gumbo
24 live Blue crabs, alive and kicking, soaked in cold fresh water for 1 hour
3 lbs. Shrimp with heads on
5 quarts water
1 large carrot, peeled with a whole clove stuck into it
5 medium-sized onions, 1 quartered, the rest finely chopped
2 cups chopped celery
1 cup green pepper (I use poblanos), diced fine
3 cloves garlic, minced
3 lbs. okra, cut into ½” pieces
1 ¼ cups corn oil
¼ cup flour
3 medium-sized tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped (out of season, I use 1 can diced tomatoes)
½ cup Tasso or other smoked ham, diced
1 sprig fresh Thyme
1 teaspoon dried sage
3 bay leaves
¼ cup fresh parsley, finely chopped
Salt and pepper to taste
Tabasco sauce to taste
Worcestershire sauce to taste
Cooked rice for serving

Steam the crabs over vigorously boiling water for 5 minutes. Remove, cool and pull of the shells of the crabs, adding them to 5 quarts of water in a large stockpot. Discard the inedible spongy fingers of the crabs, break their bodies in half and set them aside. Add any crab roe to the pot. Peel the shrimps, adding he heads and shells to the pot. Set the shrimp aside. Later on, pick crab meat from the bodies and set aside. Keep all shrimp and crab meat well chilled.
Add the carrot, onion quarters and ½ cup of the celery to the pot, cover and simmer to 2 hours. Strain the stock and return it to the pot.
Meanwhile, sauté the chopped onions, green pepper, garlic and the remaining celery in ¼ cup of oil until soft. Set the vegetables aside off the heat. Fry the okra separately in ¾ cup of oil over medium heat for about 45 minutes, or until it is soft and the ropy texture is gone. Stir often; adding more if the okra sticks. Set the okra aside.
In a separate skillet, make a brown roux with 4 tablespoons of oil and the flour. Cook for 1 ½ to 2 hours until the roux is dark brown. Add the tomato pulp and cook the mixture into a paste. Add the ham, thyme, sage and bay leaves. Cook for 5 minutes and set aside.
Add the sautéed vegetables and the okra to the strained stock and, while stirring, slowly add the roux mixtures. Simmer for 1 hour. Add the peeled shrimp, crab halves and parsley and cook for an additional ½ hour(I only cooked for about 10 minutes more, just to heat the fish). Season with salt, pepper, Tabasco and Worcestershire to taste. Serve in gumbo bowls over rice.
 
The whole point

being to develop the taste without scorching the starch. I find these things work best on either gas or induction - you want to brown the flour, which is best done at about 100°C but not higher.

I use clarified butter or olive oil, and as Lawrence has pointed out above, next to sugar, nothing in the kitchen is as dangerous as hot fat. That's one of the things I like about an induction plate set to monitor temperature.

Until you get good at it, it is better to stick with Brad Pitt blond instead of Gareth David-Lloyd mahogany. If you haven't got induction or gas, use a seriously heavy cast iron skillet and set the electric burner to one setting lower than the lowest you think is right.

I'm a vegetarian, so it's out for me, but I have German friends who do really good roux, and they use lard with standard flour.

Of course, a dash of Kitchen Bouquet or liquid smoke will not be taken amiss in many recipes and is much better than that scorched taste.
 
Hey Charles, I have a ton of microwave cookbooks (hey, I have two nukers I use). Anyway, I think I've got one, if not two of the the Tout de Suite series. And you're right, rioux in a microwave is very easy.
 
Bob you are right about making the roux in the microwave. Sure saves the time.

We cook ours until it is chocolte brown then add the onion, bell pepper, celery and garlic and then cook about 5 minutes longer.
 
Ah Variations of Gumbo!

The are a few different ways to arrive at having a delicious gumbo. There is debate as which is best depending on you personal tastes.

Roux based gumbo--
chicken and fresh sausage or smoked sausage
fresh sausage--not a kilbasa type (made that mistake once never to be repeated!
seafood--shrimp, crab, oyster (care not for crawfish tail meat myself)
Cajun style--no tomato
Creole style (New Orleans area) some tomato added
Okra based gumbo--no roux, okra is the thickener
Chicken
Seafood--shrimp and/or crab

My own experience using "store-bought" frozen okra does not work as well as the fresh okra I prepare myself for the freezer. I don't use file' (ground sassafras leaves) not a flavor I like, also contains a known carcenogen, and we have too many cancer cases already! Some households add roux to okra gumbo and some add okra to roux based gumbo. Still others add whole hard cooked eggs . Usually served with white rice but I like it using brown rice too. Okra and brown rice are great sources of fiber.

John Folse & Marcelle Bienvenu two local Cajun food authorities, would agree.
 

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