Frigidaire WO-65-2 rescued

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I also have a WO-65-2 (1954) that I got about 7 yrs. ago. I use it like John said to do towels and whites. It has never had anything done to it except I had to have the timer rebuilt when I first got it. I also use Clorox added 5 minutes before the overflow rinse starts. I then just run it back thru a short wash cycle therefore getting 2 rinses to rinse out the bleach smell. It is my favorite washer and if loaded properly you never get the tangling. Glad you saved this one and best of luck with the restoration.
Bob
 
Never come across this before, a previous servicer had tapped the soft pot metal pump impeller around the screw to keep the screw from loosening and causing loose impeller syndrome and acute fan chatter.

This is a viable solution while replacement parts are widely available, but that is no longer the case for a 60 year old washer so I won't be doing it, but thought it was interesting.

I simply cut away the extra pot metal with a Dremel. This washer has sat dry for many years so the parts are coming apart pretty easily.

gansky1++5-5-2013-19-51-15.jpg
 
Current state of the workbench. The transmission parts are ready for cleaning, the pump gasket is cut and ready, water valve rebuilt. A long process, but it will be worth it to have a very reliable washer in the end.

I will put a new clutch torque spring in, a new oil pump and seal assembly and probably a new (or better) water pump impeller.

More to come!

gansky1++5-5-2013-19-58-23.jpg
 
Nice

thorough work Greg, as always. But how did you cut such a nice round pump gasket?? It looks original. 

In all the Unimatics I've worked on I have never come across a broken torque spring yet you and Robert seem to find them all over.

I wonder if it was a run of them sold in the MidWest.

 

You splurged on the royal purple - good on you! You won't regret how smooth it will run after 5-7 washes are done and its worked all in! Stuff is amazing in my GE , Bendix Duo's & Charcoal machines.

 

Those oil pump kits are scarce as hens teeth!!

 

Are you gonna change out the spin bearing now that its all apart??

 

 
 
I learned from Robert - he da man!

I will change the spin bearing but the only tool I don't have is the bearing removal tool! Robert & Fred will bring that with them next week and I'll have him inspect my work before we fire it back up.

Jon, it's easy to cut the pump gasket from new cork when the pump is apart as the templates are right there. I used the cover plate for the outside cut and the impeller for the inside cut.
 
Yet another broken torque spring!  They do make nice paper weights. ;)

 

I did some digging on Royal Purple's website, and they now make a synthetic version of the Non-detergent SAE 30 Air Compressor oil - 01513 Synfilm Recip 100.  This would be the synthetic comparison to the standard Air Compressor oil we've been using in the Unimatic mechanisms for years.  Now if they only made an SAE 60 and SAE 70 versions for the belt drive Whirlpool/Kenmore and Maytag transmissions.
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I'm not an fluid engineer, but I'd be curious to know if the variation of oil viscosity would cause the oil pump efficiency to change.  I know that automotive guys mention that seals can be more leak prone with synthetics.

 

Ben

[this post was last edited: 5/6/2013-12:08]

 
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This may be the wrong forum...

since there are no religious or political discussions here, but why Royal Purple?

Any oil today you put in that transmission is scads better then lubricants of the 50's.

I've been an oil geek since the 80's with total belief in synthetics, I even send out used oil for analysis at least once a year. I've just never seen the RP people back up their claims...

Awesome looking restoration Greg, looking forward to seeing/hearing a video of it running!
 

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