furnace replacement

[toggleswitch2]

Air, water, electricity and people take the path of least re

Yes agreed, but simply closing a door in a room when there is no "return" vent in it can cause such a situation.

One of the ways to reduce "draftiness" is to put a return in every room, rather than have one large centrally-located return-air vent.

 

[ttuee2006]

An alternative to a return vent in each room (which is not possible in a slab foundation house) is to make the gaps under the doors bigger. This house was actually designed well in that regard, every door is 1.5" off the floor to allow plenty of airflow out of the room. Not a single door in this house has any suction on it when you close off a room. Can't say the same for the rest of the houses in the area....

Of course the downfall to the design of this house is the horrendous job they did ducting! There's so many restrictions, angles, and kinks in the ductwork that one AC contractor suggested the unit is working at less than half-capacity due to the airflow loss! One of my projects for this fall is to reduct this entire house......properly!

 

[mayguy]

Well, any update on this?

 

[bpetersxx]

I' see if I can answer the questions since the new furnace is in

same air conditioning but may have to replace it at some time

The blower went out and with the age of the furnace it seemed the right thing to do

Yes it is 2 stage with a 2 stage blower

No 2 stage stat just a plain stat with 4 buttons
100000 btu not sure what the old is

 

[bpetersxx]

Kinda dark

I'll make better pics

 

[bpetersxx]

humidifier

this makes more noise than the furnace

 

[bpetersxx]

humidifier

this makes more noise than the furnace

 

[mayguy]

100k furnace? How many sq ft is the home?

I would suggest upgrading the t-stat to a two stage tstat, that way you get longer run time with better comfort.

Not a good place to put that style of humidifier.

 

[awooff]

I believe they have installed your humidifier on the wrong duct. It should have been placed above the furnace where the heated air would "dry off" the humidifier pad.

 

[toggleswitch2]

Actually either duct will do in most cases. This to me looks like the type that sucks air in via a bypass duct (supply to return or return to supply) pulls it over the humidification pad and then admits the air into the return air duct.

Although this type doesn't (appear to)hold any water in a reservoir, it does depend on running water to spray the top of the humidification pad. Not sure if uses more water than a tradtional drum-wheel convered by absorbent material that turns in a reservoir.

Perhaps the most interesting humidifer I have ever known to exist is the Honeywell brand that boils water to create steam. Never seen it in use, though.

http://yourhome.honeywell.com/Consumer/Cultures/en-US/Products/Humidifiers/Humidifiers/Professionally-Installed/Steam/Default.htm

 

[retro-man]

The 2 April Aire humidifiers we had put in the new house are on the return duct side with a vent connected from the output side. This way the heat blows thru the humidifier and air goes down to the blower. The humidifier is hooked up to the hot water supply for more moisture output. They work very well. Mine are not fan forced. That was the next step up and I didn't want to deal with the noise of the fan. It looks like the one bpeter has the fan built into it, that would be the reason for the noise.
Jon