GE Deluxe Liberator

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kelvinatorgal

Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2021
Messages
7
Location
Cincinnati, Ohio
Just got this "new" stove yesterday to replace my Kelvinator ER-467!! No more stringing Nichrome coil wire every time the oven went out! This one is a beauty! Complete with owner's manual, griddle, broiler pan and oven thermometer! All the lights work except the interior small oven light and the corresponding oven light on the top panel. Think it has the original Sensi-temp burner that still is working.
So far so good!

I have many questions and would appreciate any and all input!

1. Where would I find a service manual for this? Model# IJ408W1N1 15.1 Serial# NN43064A
2. They no longer make the 8" burner element! Any suggestions or leads appreciated!
3. Has anyone rewired one of these that can give us any pointers?
4. How do I find the year this was made?
5. Does the fuse protect the entire oven or a certain function?
6. Any leads in the Cincinnati, OH area that would service this treasure?

I am sure I will be asking for more help along the way and can't thank you enough for your help!! Let the good times roll!

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Some answers

Q2: I may actually have a spare 8-inch surface unit for a GE range like this, but I'll have to dig for it.  Plus I live in Canada and shipping will be expensive. 

Q3: Unless you know the range has damage (rodent damage is the worst....) you will very likely not need to rewire anything

Q4: It's a 1956 model.  The 'N' in the model number is a date code for the year of manufacture  - N was GE date-speak for '56.  

Q5: The fuse would only be for the outlet on the control panel. 

 

 
 
Many thanks...

...for answering so many of my questions! I spent all day yesterday trying to track done spare parts!

The Model# for that 8" burner is WB30x357 and it needs to have the metal ring attached. Unless we have not figured out how to remove it from the broken burner! A real possibility! If you happen to have one I would be interested in purchasing it from you! Not sure how we do that on this forum...

It had always been used and in a kitchen so hoping no mice! My husband just was concerned about safety and thought the wires looked "small" and that the insulation seemed brittle.

I am glad you could decipher "GE date-speak" for us! It is nice to know the actual date!

Thanks again for all your help!
 
Kim,

I think it's possible to replace the 8" burner with one having a separate trim ring.  GE selectively introduced their "tilt-lock" burners on their more expensive ranges initially - as if they were an uprade to the standard burners.  I've had both kinds and replaced them and the mounting is the same; the tilt-lock simply had a hinge that allows the burner to stay in the upright position and the other type does not.  Having the separate trim rings makes cleaning those buggers a whole lot easier!  You might watch Ebay and check out repairclinic.com for parts.

 

lawrence
 
Well I'll be...

...what a great idea!

Never would have thought of that but how do you find out what the correct WB number would then be? There are a lot of GE ones out there which would make this much easier! And, I agree, being able to take off the ring and clean it separately would be sooo much easier! I did find new rings on eBay so that is half the battle! Would an appliance store be able to at least tell me the right one to switch to? Thank you!
 
8" GE Calrod Burner

Hi there,

I don't think WB30X357 is the correct 8" burner for your stove - that is a three coil specialized burner used on some later models than yours.

The original 8" standard two coil burner for your range should be WB30X354 and is still widely available, even on Amazon I believe. This would be the standard burner with the attached trim ring. The kit will also include a new porcelain terminal block for the connections.

As mentioned, you could also replace it with the later two coil tilt-lock with removable trim ring. That part number for the 8" is WB30X341 which is also still available. These were used on 1961 and later models. The WB30X341 burner does not come with the trim ring so you would need to purchase that separately.

However, the tilt-lock burners sit a bit more proud on the cooktop than the standard burner (they were also called hi-rise burners). If replacement is for the left side, I'm not certain if the difference in height will have an impact on the griddle sitting properly and being lined up with the receptacle correctly, especially if the rear burner sits higher than the front burner. Someone else may be able to confirm if this is an issue or not.
 
Lawrence and James...

....I am so confused!

You both are being so generous with your time to help me out with this!! I called an appliance store and she gave me part numbers for everything (bake elements and broil elements for both ovens, burners and thermostats) which I then ordered one extra of each that I could find on eBay. I want this to be my forever stove! Now I am worried that I was given other wrong part numbers!! Ugh! Where do I go to find the correct numbers?

And, thank you for pointing out about the griddle not fitting though in all honesty I will probably just continue to use my cast iron griddle but that is definitely something to consider as I may want to use that griddle if I ever need have two going on some days!

I am talking with another man at an appliance store and he kept saying that the 8" burner should have a knob on the stove to adjust it to use as a 4" 6" and 8" burner. Do you think that is the one you were talking about James? And, you are correct since my oven has no such knob that burner would be incorrect!

What would happen if I put the wrong # burner in? Ruining the burner would not be cool but ruining the oven would be horrible!

How did you all learn so much??
 
Kim,

I'm not sure about the selection of coil size on this range.  Beginning in 1957 there was a switch on the left side of the console that allowed the user to select Full Coil/Inner Coil for the Automatic unit.  If it exists it should be easy to see, I don't see anything that looks like that, but you have a better view than do I.

 

lawrence
 
Hi Kim

You can purchase a catalogue from the site which has part numbers for common parts on all GE stoves going back to the 1940s. It lists the correct part numbers for things like burners, oven elements etc. They'll be older part numbers but gives you something to search on Ebay or will lead you to updated numbers if the part isn't NLA.

https://www.automatice.org/cgi-bin/index.cgi?showdoc~1258~General Electric~RA

As Lawrence mentioned, in 1957 GE started putting a selector switch for the automatic calrod burner to allow you to just use the inner coil if you were using a smaller pot (or the griddle). Yours is a 1956 and so it doesn't have this option as you've noticed, let alone the three position switch that later models had to select 4", 6", or 8". A stove that had the 4,6,8 switch would need a three coil burner so it could energize each coil separately depending on the selection chosen. The WB30X357 is a three coil burner and therefore not something you need for your stove.

Either one of the PNs mentioned previously will work to replace your 8" burner (WB30X354 or WB30X341 + new trim ring). Like I said, the WB30X354 is the correct replacement part, the other one will work too but will sit a bit higher.

You won't have the correct connections on your stove to use the WB30X357 burner so nothing will happen because you won't be able to hook it up without modification.

[this post was last edited: 10/21/2021-23:21]
 
Lawrence and James...

....you two have been amazing!

With all your help I have found a path forward! The only knob that this stove has is for the Automatic Calrod Surface Unit which controls the temp. That 3 level burner does sound like an awesome option to have but you are correct that was for a later model.

I am ordering that catalog so nothing will be left to chance!

I think I would like to use original burners if at all possible. I doubt that I will ever find a replacement for the sensi-burner so that will be a future thread along with clock repair and non-working oven light. For now, I just want it up and running with every replacement part imaginable tucked away!

The new replacement for my 6" burner came yesterday so will try to switch it out today!

Again, thanks for sharing all the knowledge you have with me!!
 
Here's a thread that contains information on how to repair the Telechron clock rotor (I'm certain yours has an "H3" type rotor -- it will be stamped on its housing), which is the likely culprit for your range's non-working clock.

 
Clock Repair Info

Thank you for this thread on clock repair! It will just be great to have it all working like new!

We replaced the 6" burner yesterday and working great!

I think I may need a new thermostat for the small oven. Heating up way lower than setting. Is this a job we can do or is it time to call in a repairman? (If I can even find one!) Guess it is better to learn how to do this ourselves!

The interior oven light will be the final frontier!

I thank everyone again for sharing your invaluable knowledge with me! And, most of you list washing machines as your interest! What a great group!
 
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