GE "Pot Scrubber" Dishwasher In MD

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Oh it can't be that BOL, it has the "Temperature Sensor" on it, LOL!

 

I always wondered on these models (with the manual timer dial), what does having a multitude of cycle buttons do? It can't possibly "Save Water." My assumption is it relates to the water heating system - i.e. Hitting Energy Saver/Fast Wash disables the water heating, to save energy. Although, I'm sure you could push "Potscrubber" and run the light wash if you wanted to save a little water (Who needs to pre-rinse the dishes 3 times before washing them?)

 

Looks like a nice enough machine; Those timer knobs on these models look pretty cool in my eyes, as does the black control panel with red border-lining.
 
Not sure exactly what the pecking order of the GE Potscrubber dishwashers was, but mine that I bought new in 1988 looks virtually the same, but is an 1100 (the one listed is a 600). Mine has two additional wash settings, 'Light' and 'Rinse & Hold' (in addition to the 'Potscrubber' and 'Normal' settings). Since they don't have any interior shots, I can't see if the racks or wash arms are different.
 
@DirectDriveDave

I believe Bob is referring to the "Constant Rinse" sprayer at the very top of the tub. Apparently having this was beneficial in a Tower Wash dishwasher (from what I've read here), although I'm sure its nothing a decent dose of Jet-Dry couldn't fix... (And I'm pretty sure all that Pre-Rinsing and Post-Rinsing aids in this case, with all the clean water coming in).

 

I'd say this would be a great machine for someone to put into a rental property. Simple, works and isn't too fussy about what you put in it. NICE!
 
Cycle buttons--the only thing it did was change the numberr of water changes throughout the cycle.  The PotScrubber cycle also had a longer extended main wash to heat the water even higher.  Jeff, your 1100 & this are considerably different inside.  YOu had the deep upper rack, multi-orbit wash arm, delay start.  And all the cycle buttons did for light or normal was different amount of waeter changes.  cycle time length was still the same.  My sister used to have an 1100.
 
Washer111, the number of water changes were important in the GE to carry away soil. The machine not only had no filter, but the pump held a quart of water after every drain. Multiple water changes were the only way of slowly flushing the soil away. I think the potsmasher cycle extended the main wash into the first rinse period, reducing the number of after rinses by one, for extra scrubbing if it worked like earlier GE potsmasher cycles.
 
The 600 model did not have the passive filtration system, even through the 900 model there was no filter. They also had the metal wash arm.

The exception was the 640 model, which you did not find in the GE appliance catalogue. This was a specialty model for select stores, that did offer a few extra features such as the passive filtration system.

I speculate that the main purpose for the "power shower" top wash arm is to wash away food particles that collect in the concave tops of cups and glassware/crystal. And it my experience, it does the job. I have had many of both types of General Electric machines, with and without the power shower arm.

The force of the Power Shower is not enough to do much (if any) scrubbing, but it does seem to prevent ground up food grit from collecting in concave surfaces.
 
I still figured that avoiding all those water changes at the start of the cycle would've been a good idea. By the time the machine has finished the 3rd Pre-Rinse, the dishes must be clean by that stage.

My other "idea" was the usage of Rinse-Aid wold alleviate the problem mostly anyways, as it did when we used our Dishwasher without the filter (when it came apart). Of course, I used Heavy to get rid of the chunky soils, and for the 3 post-wash rinses, but I noticed that until the Rinse-Aid dispensed, everything was coated with rubbish (specs of food, like coffee grounds). After that, clean as a Concorde!
 
A lot depends on the machine,the food load, and what actual foods are on the dishes. On my newer Whirlpool made Jenn-Air 3-rack, there is still generally a lot of food material after the pre-rinse, going into the main wash.

On my older GE's most of the non-dried on foods are gone by the end of the 3rd prerinse. Pots and Pans with cooked on food usually still have residue, but the 3 prewashes have done their job and soaked and loosed the material, ready for the main wash. Once in a while a little dried on cat food may remain until the main wash, but usually very little.
 
Potscrubber 1100 Money Shot

OK, since there was some discussion of the interior differences... I took a couple of photos of my Potscrubber 1100 interior... the white residue seems to be building up over the last year or so, which I take from reading various posts is due to the reformulation of dishwasher detergents? I am more of a stove/fridge guy, so am not as knowledgeable as you all on this... I normally use Cascade, and I admit that I am one of those people who pre-rinses my dishes pretty clean before they go in the dishwasher...

If you look carefully you can see the small upper arm that a couple of you mentioned in the posts...

moparguy++12-25-2012-13-14-19.jpg
 
Jeff you are runining your DW

You tell him John.  Jeff it won't kill you to leave food soil on your dishware for 5 or 6 days.  Since you are prerinsing and insist on it, I suggest you run two consecutive Rinse & Holds and then let the load air dry.  That way you won't be torturing and ruining your dishwasher as well asyour dishware.  And those racks look in very good shape, but they are being eaten alive. 
 
I think the potsmasher cycle extended the main wash into the

Tom, backwards actually.  I had a Tappan branded GE in a house built in 1985 with light, normal, and pots & pans cycle buttons with a rocker switch for water heat and the two buttons for heat/cool dry.  My sister had the 1100.  On both the 1100 & Tappan, that "first rinse" was bypassed when using Light Wash.  On my Tappan, the "first rinse" was bypassed for both Normal and Light wash buttons but was included in Pts & Pans cycle.  The water heat rocker switch slowed down the timer during a period of the main wash as well as did so just enough during the final rinse to add 5 or 8 minutes to the final rinse (no thermostat).  With water heat on the main wash was extended by 10 minutes.  Without it main wash was 20 minutes.  With it the duration was 30 minutes.  I found that if I used Normal with Water Heat on I got excellent results with the main wash extended by 5 minutes for the "bypass" of the first rinse (for a total of 20 minute extension).  I even wrote in pencil in the owners manual what the combination did accomplish when I sold the house in early 1986 to be transferred here.  There was also a little idiot light which came on signifying water heat was in progress.  Light wash eliminated one of the 3 prewashes and the 2nd of the two prewashes was a partial fill to mimic a gentler water force.   It pretty much sounded like the pumping sound/pitches as was found on my 1200's China Crystal cycle.   My mom was amazed at what the Tappan could do with those settings.  And when I replaced the crappy Hotpoint "Potwasher" with the GSD1200 in May 1987 (the house was bought at end of January 1986), the 1200 kicked even more butt than the Tappan and the Hotpoint was a paltry performer leaving rice everywhere on glasses in the upper rack which I didn't encounter with either the Tappan or the future GSD1200.  Trust me I was pissed after the first 3 loads like that in the Hotpoint.  I endured 16 months with that crappy Hotpoint.  And I will debate John to larygitis status on this one.  The Hotpoint & Tappan had virtually the same wash arm.  But they had different pumps.  Hence the crappy Hotpoint performance.  And pump size difference was noted to me by the guy who removed said Hotpoint and installed the 1200 for me.
 
Pre-Rinsing

Either do what Bob suggested above, running two rinse-hold cycles, or perhaps run the lightest wash possible (without detergent!)

 

If you are afraid of the machine's performance, use the Potscrubber cycle with your soils. I would perhaps use some dishwasher cleaner or phosphated detergent to clean the scale out of the dishwasher too.

Ensure that the machine is also filling adequately, as most would agree, an underfilling dishwasher certainly won't work particularly well.
 

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