GE TFX22R Refrigerator-Water Line Connection Leak
- Thread starter joe89
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danemodsandy
Well-known member
Joe:
This problem is nearly always related to one of three things:
1) The water line itself is cracked or pinholed (happens over time when you pull the refrigerator out for cleaning).
2) The compression fittings are somehow damaged.
3) The supply tubing flares are somehow damaged.
The fix is usually very simple - buy an icemaker installation kit and replace everything. The kit has everything you usually need. Here's what to do:
Pull out the refrigerator and follow the icemaker water supply tubing (might be plastic, might be copper) to where it goes into a brass fitting on the back of the fridge. That fitting unscrews with a wrench (WARNING: the piece the fitting screws to can be broken, so be sure and hold on to it with one hand while unscrewing the fitting).
Once the fitting is unscrewed, you will be able to slide it back along the length of tubing, exposing the end of the tube. If the tubing is copper, the end will be flared. If it is plastic, there will be a little brass piece that is flared inserted into the end of the tubing. There will also be a little brass ring around the end of the tubing, on the outside of the tubing. This is called a compression fitting.
What generally cures your problem is to replace all these pieces, following the instructions on the icemaker installation kit. Every hardware store carries them, in both plastic and copper. Both plastic and copper have their fans, and I'm not getting into that debate.
It is really a pretty easy repair, just a little tedious. You will also have to find where your icemaker supply tubing connects to your cold water line; it's called a supply tee. You should shut off the old tee's little shutoff valve where it connects to the cold water pipe, and cut off the old tubing. Then install a new tee, connecting up your new tubing to that. Again, complete instructions are on the icemaker installation kit.
If this does not cure the problem, there are two other possibilities. Either you did not tighten things correctly when you put in the new icemaker installation kit (you can overtighten as well as fail to tighten enough), or you have a cracked part somewhere on the refrigerator, in which case you should get back to us.
Try the icemaker kit first; they're cheap, usually cure the problem, and if you have a cracked part on the fridge, you'd end up having to replace it anyway. Here's a link to installation instructions for the kit (they're all pretty much the same):
This problem is nearly always related to one of three things:
1) The water line itself is cracked or pinholed (happens over time when you pull the refrigerator out for cleaning).
2) The compression fittings are somehow damaged.
3) The supply tubing flares are somehow damaged.
The fix is usually very simple - buy an icemaker installation kit and replace everything. The kit has everything you usually need. Here's what to do:
Pull out the refrigerator and follow the icemaker water supply tubing (might be plastic, might be copper) to where it goes into a brass fitting on the back of the fridge. That fitting unscrews with a wrench (WARNING: the piece the fitting screws to can be broken, so be sure and hold on to it with one hand while unscrewing the fitting).
Once the fitting is unscrewed, you will be able to slide it back along the length of tubing, exposing the end of the tube. If the tubing is copper, the end will be flared. If it is plastic, there will be a little brass piece that is flared inserted into the end of the tubing. There will also be a little brass ring around the end of the tubing, on the outside of the tubing. This is called a compression fitting.
What generally cures your problem is to replace all these pieces, following the instructions on the icemaker installation kit. Every hardware store carries them, in both plastic and copper. Both plastic and copper have their fans, and I'm not getting into that debate.
It is really a pretty easy repair, just a little tedious. You will also have to find where your icemaker supply tubing connects to your cold water line; it's called a supply tee. You should shut off the old tee's little shutoff valve where it connects to the cold water pipe, and cut off the old tubing. Then install a new tee, connecting up your new tubing to that. Again, complete instructions are on the icemaker installation kit.
If this does not cure the problem, there are two other possibilities. Either you did not tighten things correctly when you put in the new icemaker installation kit (you can overtighten as well as fail to tighten enough), or you have a cracked part somewhere on the refrigerator, in which case you should get back to us.
Try the icemaker kit first; they're cheap, usually cure the problem, and if you have a cracked part on the fridge, you'd end up having to replace it anyway. Here's a link to installation instructions for the kit (they're all pretty much the same):
Sandy,
gave you some good advice. I would add one or two suggestions to his list:
- Copper and braided stainless-steel covered neoprene lines are enormously more reliable than plastic. The braided stainless-steel covered neoprene lines have the advantage of pre-installed fittings; you just tighten the ends and that's all there is to it. The copper compression fittings are easier to work with than the plastic fittings, tho' you can overtighten them, too...and even a small kink in the copper may well lead to failure.
Both the plastic and the copper will fail if the line freezes, the fittings come loose even if the line, itself, doesn't burst. The braided stainless-steel covered neoprene lines will forgive a minor freeze, sometimes.
If the problem is in the refrigerator itself, there are replacement parts for each of the components in the ice-maker/water system and none of the major brands are tough to repair.
Oh, do be sure to turn the water and the electricity off before you start, there are usually several parts in the back of the refrigerator which would not like to get wet...and could make a $20 repair into a new refrigerator...plus the new line.
gave you some good advice. I would add one or two suggestions to his list:
- Copper and braided stainless-steel covered neoprene lines are enormously more reliable than plastic. The braided stainless-steel covered neoprene lines have the advantage of pre-installed fittings; you just tighten the ends and that's all there is to it. The copper compression fittings are easier to work with than the plastic fittings, tho' you can overtighten them, too...and even a small kink in the copper may well lead to failure.
Both the plastic and the copper will fail if the line freezes, the fittings come loose even if the line, itself, doesn't burst. The braided stainless-steel covered neoprene lines will forgive a minor freeze, sometimes.
If the problem is in the refrigerator itself, there are replacement parts for each of the components in the ice-maker/water system and none of the major brands are tough to repair.
Oh, do be sure to turn the water and the electricity off before you start, there are usually several parts in the back of the refrigerator which would not like to get wet...and could make a $20 repair into a new refrigerator...plus the new line.
I think I found the leak. It appears to be in the blue plastic
connector/coupler in the back of the frig. I have brass tubing
going from my water supply to the frig. There is a blue plastic
connector/coupler where the brass tubing connects. From this connector/coupler there are two plastic tubes, I assume go to the water dispenser and the ice maker. it appears I have a leak in that connector/coupler. I see and feel a steam spraying out.
Should I try to replace this?
thanks!!
connector/coupler in the back of the frig. I have brass tubing
going from my water supply to the frig. There is a blue plastic
connector/coupler where the brass tubing connects. From this connector/coupler there are two plastic tubes, I assume go to the water dispenser and the ice maker. it appears I have a leak in that connector/coupler. I see and feel a steam spraying out.
Should I try to replace this?
thanks!!
I think I found the leak. It appears to be in the blue plastic
connector/coupler in the back of the frig. I have brass tubing
going from my water supply to the frig. There is a blue plastic
connector/coupler where the brass tubing connects. From this connector/coupler there are two plastic tubes, I assume go to the water dispenser and the ice maker. it appears I have a leak in that connector/coupler. I see and feel a steam spraying out.
Should I try to replace this?
thanks!!
Edit:
I found this online:
Is this it?
Or this?
connector/coupler in the back of the frig. I have brass tubing
going from my water supply to the frig. There is a blue plastic
connector/coupler where the brass tubing connects. From this connector/coupler there are two plastic tubes, I assume go to the water dispenser and the ice maker. it appears I have a leak in that connector/coupler. I see and feel a steam spraying out.
Should I try to replace this?
thanks!!
Edit:
I found this online:
Is this it?
Or this?
Hi Joe
In this case, replacement is probably your best bet. You should check very carefully to make sure that there was no mechanical damage caused by loose components vibrating or hitting the coupler. I have read of filters failing and the back-pressure or granulate destroying things - but that would be after the coupler, not before. Still, be sure the pressure going up to the refrigerator is low, it doesn't need much. GE specifies the maximum for each system, stay below it.
When you replace the coupler, flush the water lines before hand, it takes very little sediment to ruin these.
I won't venture a guess which coupler is right without seeing your exact unit. The best thing to do is to find a small repair shop in your area and take the old coupler in with the refrigerator's data - model, serial, etc.
Don't over-tighten anything but be sure there are absolutely no leaks. Plastic parts often fail sometime after installation because they were twisted by the plumber when the water line was installed. Always hold the plastic parts firmly so the only thing being turned is the fastener.
Good luck!
In this case, replacement is probably your best bet. You should check very carefully to make sure that there was no mechanical damage caused by loose components vibrating or hitting the coupler. I have read of filters failing and the back-pressure or granulate destroying things - but that would be after the coupler, not before. Still, be sure the pressure going up to the refrigerator is low, it doesn't need much. GE specifies the maximum for each system, stay below it.
When you replace the coupler, flush the water lines before hand, it takes very little sediment to ruin these.
I won't venture a guess which coupler is right without seeing your exact unit. The best thing to do is to find a small repair shop in your area and take the old coupler in with the refrigerator's data - model, serial, etc.
Don't over-tighten anything but be sure there are absolutely no leaks. Plastic parts often fail sometime after installation because they were twisted by the plumber when the water line was installed. Always hold the plastic parts firmly so the only thing being turned is the fastener.
Good luck!
GE Model # TFX22RL J
Serial # 224335
How do I know the water pressure? Our house has high pressure.
Could these both be the same part? Possibly one is a newer
version that pushes in rather than screw? And cheaper.
Or this?
Serial # 224335
How do I know the water pressure? Our house has high pressure.
Could these both be the same part? Possibly one is a newer
version that pushes in rather than screw? And cheaper.
Or this?
Joe,
I think - best to ask the repair store - they are identical, the
version being designed for easier use (a good idea, methinks).
Checking your water pressure exactly requires a rather expensive meter. Most water departments will check for free, if you give them a ring.
Regardless, your owner's guide should have a very clear range of pressures which are permitted for that refrigerator. Basically, you should not have more pressure on this line than required to ensure the ice-cube tray is filled completely.
Things like this get easier with experience...
I think - best to ask the repair store - they are identical, the
version being designed for easier use (a good idea, methinks).
Checking your water pressure exactly requires a rather expensive meter. Most water departments will check for free, if you give them a ring.
Regardless, your owner's guide should have a very clear range of pressures which are permitted for that refrigerator. Basically, you should not have more pressure on this line than required to ensure the ice-cube tray is filled completely.
Things like this get easier with experience...
OK, thanks for all your advice!
I don't see a recommended pressure in my owners manual.
I assume I can just open the valve on the icemaker water line
a turn or two?
I forget exactly. I think the house has around
190 LBS water pressure. I know it's higher than the usual now
a days. This was built in 1961.
I'll be back if I need help and to follow up.
Any other suggestions are welcome.
thank you!!
I don't see a recommended pressure in my owners manual.
I assume I can just open the valve on the icemaker water line
a turn or two?
I forget exactly. I think the house has around
190 LBS water pressure. I know it's higher than the usual now
a days. This was built in 1961.
I'll be back if I need help and to follow up.
Any other suggestions are welcome.
thank you!!
65 psi is what my
parents' owner's manual state is the limit.
Goodness.
!
parents' owner's manual state is the limit.
Goodness.
!
Ge water valve
Does this blue fitting have electrical wires connected to it? Ge was know for some of its water valves developing pin holes. Replace the valve and you shold be fine. If you look for the pin hole, you wont see it. You dont always see the water comming out of it either. Sometimes water just magicly appears. It sprays out in a fine mist.
Does this blue fitting have electrical wires connected to it? Ge was know for some of its water valves developing pin holes. Replace the valve and you shold be fine. If you look for the pin hole, you wont see it. You dont always see the water comming out of it either. Sometimes water just magicly appears. It sprays out in a fine mist.
Yes, I believe it does have wires connected. It's late
so I'm not looking at it now
I felt a pin hole as you say. I have had it turned off for
several months. I turned it on briefly yesterday. It puddles
up quite rapidly.
After Stevet helped me fix my dishwasher I figured I might
try the icemaker
I am wondering if I am able to just judge the water pressure
by turning it up a little at a time? Is it possible someone
may have turned it up too high and caused it blow?
Well, I'll look at it here tomorrow.
Here are the two part links again if anyone missed
them. I just want to be sure on these.
Or this?
thanks again!
so I'm not looking at it now
I felt a pin hole as you say. I have had it turned off for
several months. I turned it on briefly yesterday. It puddles
up quite rapidly.
After Stevet helped me fix my dishwasher I figured I might
try the icemaker
I am wondering if I am able to just judge the water pressure
by turning it up a little at a time? Is it possible someone
may have turned it up too high and caused it blow?
Well, I'll look at it here tomorrow.
Here are the two part links again if anyone missed
them. I just want to be sure on these.
Or this?
thanks again!
Bump
Yes, I believe it does have wires connected. It's late
so I'm not looking at it now
I felt a pin hole as you say. I have had it turned off for
several months. I turned it on briefly yesterday. It puddles
up quite rapidly.
After Stevet helped me fix my dishwasher I figured I might
try the icemaker
I am wondering if I am able to just judge the water pressure
by turning it up a little at a time? Is it possible someone
may have turned it up too high and caused it blow?
Well, I'll look at it here tomorrow.
Here are the two part links again if anyone missed
them. I just want to be sure on these.
Or this?
thanks again!
Yes, I believe it does have wires connected. It's late
so I'm not looking at it now
I felt a pin hole as you say. I have had it turned off for
several months. I turned it on briefly yesterday. It puddles
up quite rapidly.
After Stevet helped me fix my dishwasher I figured I might
try the icemaker
I am wondering if I am able to just judge the water pressure
by turning it up a little at a time? Is it possible someone
may have turned it up too high and caused it blow?
Well, I'll look at it here tomorrow.
Here are the two part links again if anyone missed
them. I just want to be sure on these.
Or this?
thanks again!
I got it fixed! I obtained the new type of part at a local appliance repair shop.
Part description and picture here
I had a few problems cussing and freaking out on the brass tubing that attaches the main water to the Dual water inlet valve. It now attaches directly with the 1/4 inch fitting instead of using a connector like a garden hose fitting. The old fitting leaked like crazy. So I did a google and came up with this.
I went to Ace hardware and got a Brass 1/4" compression nut
and a Brass ferrule. I also picked up a cheap tube cutter.
This worked and I now have it hooked up and am running.
------------
I wasn't sure what you meant on the water pressure?
Did you mean the actual water pressure coming into the
house? Or did you mean how far to turn the valve
that sends the water from house water supply to the
icemaker? The brass icemaker water line is hooked up under the kitchen sink to the line that feeds the cold water. It has
a valve there of it's own similar to the ones for hot and
cold water for the sink. It turns 4 turns. I think I opened
it 1 turn. How do I know what is too high? I mentioned it
to the guy at the repair shop and he said the pressure makes
no difference. He claimed the dual water inlet valve regulates
the pressure. Is this B.S.?
Part description and picture here
I had a few problems cussing and freaking out on the brass tubing that attaches the main water to the Dual water inlet valve. It now attaches directly with the 1/4 inch fitting instead of using a connector like a garden hose fitting. The old fitting leaked like crazy. So I did a google and came up with this.
I went to Ace hardware and got a Brass 1/4" compression nut
and a Brass ferrule. I also picked up a cheap tube cutter.
This worked and I now have it hooked up and am running.
------------
I wasn't sure what you meant on the water pressure?
Did you mean the actual water pressure coming into the
house? Or did you mean how far to turn the valve
that sends the water from house water supply to the
icemaker? The brass icemaker water line is hooked up under the kitchen sink to the line that feeds the cold water. It has
a valve there of it's own similar to the ones for hot and
cold water for the sink. It turns 4 turns. I think I opened
it 1 turn. How do I know what is too high? I mentioned it
to the guy at the repair shop and he said the pressure makes
no difference. He claimed the dual water inlet valve regulates
the pressure. Is this B.S.?
Dont worry so much about water pressure. The pin hole would have developed anyway. its a GE think. Happy you got it fixed. Now you wont have to crack cube trays anymore.
