General Electric J-4390L2WH
- Thread starter MelissaK
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Based on the serial number, it was manufactured in either 1970 or 1982, in August of whichever year. I think 1982 is more likely, as the toekick panel is white to match the rest of the cabinet, and previous to around 1971it was black. In 1970, most models had pushbutton surface unit controls, rather than knobs like yours.
It would have to be 1970 as it has two grounded convenience outlets. These were omitted after 1975.
lawrence
lawrence
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Thanks Lawrence, I didn't catch that. Was 1970 the first year with matching toe panel?
It appears that the toe panel did change from black to white in 1970. My information doesn't include anything on the 40" ranges but does show the 30" version of this stove. For those (J339) models, in 1970 the surface unit controls changed from 5-heat pushbuttons to infinite heat rotary controls.
lawrence
lawrence
Thanks for the additional info. All my catalogs and parts- service manuals are at storage.
setter55
New member
I ran into the same problem with a GE oven from 1966. I contacted GE and learned that Haier had purged all of the information associated with their vintage models following its acquisition.
The serial indicates it was made Aug. 1970, 1982, 1994, 2006 or 2018 (thanks GE for the accuracy of your serial numbers!). The latest update to its parts list on microfiche was Sept. 1972 so 1970 is the most likely production date.
Dangck
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I have this same stove! It came with my home and I have been googling for weeks for info on how to fix it!
Can I high jack this thread and ask a question? Well I’m doing it anyway.
A few weeks ago I went to turn off the large oven and got a zap sound that tripped the breaker. I examined the unit, no bad smells, no melting wires in the back everything looks really clean. I turn it back on, seems fine. All the burners work correctly, lights turn on etc.
Next time I go to preheat the oven I find that while the temp light turns off the element stays on ! I turn off the oven and it powers down fine.
My question, should I replace the temp control board or the element first ? The boards run about 100 bucks but I want to see this unit run again.
Thanks!
Oh and PS: my unit has a ton of cool features on it including a rotisserie and a meat probe that plug into the oven! I will get some pictures tomorrow and post them if there is interest.
Can I high jack this thread and ask a question? Well I’m doing it anyway.
A few weeks ago I went to turn off the large oven and got a zap sound that tripped the breaker. I examined the unit, no bad smells, no melting wires in the back everything looks really clean. I turn it back on, seems fine. All the burners work correctly, lights turn on etc.
Next time I go to preheat the oven I find that while the temp light turns off the element stays on ! I turn off the oven and it powers down fine.
My question, should I replace the temp control board or the element first ? The boards run about 100 bucks but I want to see this unit run again.
Thanks!
Oh and PS: my unit has a ton of cool features on it including a rotisserie and a meat probe that plug into the oven! I will get some pictures tomorrow and post them if there is interest.
Reply number nine, it’s very unlikely the bake element is the cause, you could see if it works properly on broil by setting it to 250° for example and see if the element cycle goes off and on when it’s set on the broil setting.
The bake element is also extremely easy to check with an ohm meter.
It could be the little circuit board. It could be a stuck heat relay.
If you post a picture of your model number and some of the components that would be helpful. GE use three different systems in their self cleaning ovens over the years.
John L
The bake element is also extremely easy to check with an ohm meter.
It could be the little circuit board. It could be a stuck heat relay.
If you post a picture of your model number and some of the components that would be helpful. GE use three different systems in their self cleaning ovens over the years.
John L
Usually a bake or broil element will have holes burnt into it and look like rats chewed on it when they burn out... Might be a mouse chewed wiring, or just the main board cooked. It may be possible to find and replace the relay on the control board, if that's what blew up. Usually, something that makes that much noise and trips a 40 amp breaker leaves a trail of destruction you can spot pretty easily. I once worked on a Frigidaire glass-top that had touch pads for all the controls. There were a stack of hot-wire relays up the side that a cute little mousie used for a ladder... until he got 240V from his front paw to his back. Stopped climbing right there and was still present when I opened it up.
Dangck
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- Sep 19, 2025
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Sorry guys, life happens.
** side note if I should be putting all this in its own post please yell and me and I will do so.
My model number is J 4870L2WH
**My Issue** I had been baking, I went to switch the oven from 'bake' to 'off' and got a ZAP sound that popped the breaker. Now the oven (bottom) element will not shut off when it comes to temp.
**My Question** I have purchased a new/old stock replacement for the oven switch but before installing wanted to check with you lot to see what you think.
I have tested the 'broil' feature as Combo52 suggested and that worked just fine, gets to temp, red indicator light over temp goes off, and element goes off.
While testing the bottom element on 'bake' the temp light will turn off as well, presumably when it reaches temp, but the element will stay on.
So this sounds like a relay somewhere, but I have clue where one could be. There does not appear to be any damage that I can see, just control board looks old, but not damaged, all traces look OK and nothing is scored.
I have attached pictures, please let me know what you all think and thank you for the help ! I really love this oven and hope to keep it going.
-Dan
PS - thought you all might get a kick out of the old instructions on the back !
** side note if I should be putting all this in its own post please yell and me and I will do so.
My model number is J 4870L2WH
**My Issue** I had been baking, I went to switch the oven from 'bake' to 'off' and got a ZAP sound that popped the breaker. Now the oven (bottom) element will not shut off when it comes to temp.
**My Question** I have purchased a new/old stock replacement for the oven switch but before installing wanted to check with you lot to see what you think.
I have tested the 'broil' feature as Combo52 suggested and that worked just fine, gets to temp, red indicator light over temp goes off, and element goes off.
While testing the bottom element on 'bake' the temp light will turn off as well, presumably when it reaches temp, but the element will stay on.
So this sounds like a relay somewhere, but I have clue where one could be. There does not appear to be any damage that I can see, just control board looks old, but not damaged, all traces look OK and nothing is scored.
I have attached pictures, please let me know what you all think and thank you for the help ! I really love this oven and hope to keep it going.
-Dan
PS - thought you all might get a kick out of the old instructions on the back !
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Dangck
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Update**
I replaced the knob (part ASR6177-07). No joy.
So next I tracked the element lines back to the knob, and then to this relay. Still no visible damage anywhere -- But I did find some more new/old stock on ebay for this guy for 40 bucks. If you guys agree I will pull the trigger on this and see if that does the trick.
I replaced the knob (part ASR6177-07). No joy.
So next I tracked the element lines back to the knob, and then to this relay. Still no visible damage anywhere -- But I did find some more new/old stock on ebay for this guy for 40 bucks. If you guys agree I will pull the trigger on this and see if that does the trick.
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