Gary: To be on the safe side I would hang the damp clothes on the basement clothesline and not the furniture.I just thought of it-if my mom caught me putting damp things on her furniture she would wring my neck!My dads house has a basement clothesline-from the days when my stepmom didn't have or want a dryer.also there was no dryer vent in the house.One day I was at her home-my grandmother was there as well.We were sitting in the living room and suddenly Grandmother says"We are going to Sears right now and getting Nancy a dryer"We were dumbfounded-but piled into the car and grandmom bought the dryer.Its used to this day-the clothesline in a backup.The oil furnace was in the basement-now gas-but it put out enough heat to dry the clothes.Anyway the dryer is connected to a water filled device that cathes the lint.You still get heat and humidity from the dryer.At my present house where I live I get enough humidity from dishwashing,bathing,etc.In the summer when I run the Airconditioner-I don't have as much-just as well.
Great way to humidify the house
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lederstiefel1
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Toggleswitch
Hi!
Yes, condenser dryers do so! I ment that drying clothes all over the house and adding humidity by humidifiers is bad as this is too much steam in the air!
Just to remember: in a european FL it needs about 1.5KW/h for an average load of whites (5kg) to get washed (60°C) and a further 3.5KW/h to get it tumbled dry afterwards (pre-condition: spin speed of 1200-1400 rpm), not to forget that for 1KW/h of electricity 3KW/h of primary energy have to be spend!! So GAS-DRYERS are thrice better than electric ones!
Having children is bad for the environment - therefor Germany has the worlds lowest birth-rate!! lol
You are right to say so: it is nonsense to install a fan into a room where a dryer sucks out the air, this could hamper the drying process as the vaccuum in the room blocks the fan inside the dryer and less air is flowing through it - the machine could even overheat under several pre-conditions!
When you use an exaust-dryer, not a condenser, you should better have a small window open or an inlet for fresh air in the wall, to assure a good air-flow for the dryer. Even condensers need fresh air - the colder, the better! - as they need the room-air to cool the condenser block! Small rooms with no airing ability are not suitable for these appliances, they heat up quickly! In a modern low energy house the central air-conditioning uses this warmth of the condenser-dryer to support heating the house as every quantity of energy emmitted inside the house (cooking, showering, candles, dryers, hair-dryers, etc.) is re-conditioned via the heat-exchanger, so sometimes these houses do not need any heating throughout the whole year - even in winter-time.
Ralf
Hi!
Yes, condenser dryers do so! I ment that drying clothes all over the house and adding humidity by humidifiers is bad as this is too much steam in the air!
Just to remember: in a european FL it needs about 1.5KW/h for an average load of whites (5kg) to get washed (60°C) and a further 3.5KW/h to get it tumbled dry afterwards (pre-condition: spin speed of 1200-1400 rpm), not to forget that for 1KW/h of electricity 3KW/h of primary energy have to be spend!! So GAS-DRYERS are thrice better than electric ones!
Having children is bad for the environment - therefor Germany has the worlds lowest birth-rate!! lol
You are right to say so: it is nonsense to install a fan into a room where a dryer sucks out the air, this could hamper the drying process as the vaccuum in the room blocks the fan inside the dryer and less air is flowing through it - the machine could even overheat under several pre-conditions!
When you use an exaust-dryer, not a condenser, you should better have a small window open or an inlet for fresh air in the wall, to assure a good air-flow for the dryer. Even condensers need fresh air - the colder, the better! - as they need the room-air to cool the condenser block! Small rooms with no airing ability are not suitable for these appliances, they heat up quickly! In a modern low energy house the central air-conditioning uses this warmth of the condenser-dryer to support heating the house as every quantity of energy emmitted inside the house (cooking, showering, candles, dryers, hair-dryers, etc.) is re-conditioned via the heat-exchanger, so sometimes these houses do not need any heating throughout the whole year - even in winter-time.
Ralf
toggleswitch
Well-known member
Cool! thank you for the clarification.
IIRC Consumers Reports magazine said that drying a load in an American dryer (vented) consumes about 2.5 kwh.
My mom's house has a furnace with a humidifier that has an adjustment on it that you are supposed to set according to the outside temperature. It's been really cold in Iowa recently, and Mom keeps the house really hot, but she complains that it's too dry in the house, even though the thing is set on "30" (which is what the notes Dad wrote down says to set it at. I have no idea what that means)
I'll vouch for the dryness. I felt like a prune at Christmas, and the dining room chairs were all creaking like kindling.
Anybody know if there is a special setting for old people who keep their houses at 80 degrees year-round?
I'll vouch for the dryness. I felt like a prune at Christmas, and the dining room chairs were all creaking like kindling.
Anybody know if there is a special setting for old people who keep their houses at 80 degrees year-round?
toggleswitch
Well-known member
Can't tell by your description if that is supposed to be outdor temp (*F) or indoor relative humidity.
On whole-house furnace humidifiers, one sometimes sets the thing to correspond to OUTDOOR temps (*F). These types of controls are normally located on the return-air plenum. It selects the proper humidity indoors (and often references what the analogous recommended indoor RH level will be provided at that setting.)I'd suggest you raise the setting slightly twice a week until the windows in the house just barely become moist during a cold snap.
If you have a hygrometer (measures humidity) you may want to ensure indoor levels hover around 40% RH [or slightly less] to avoid growth of mold (airborne) and formation of mildew (mold on surfaces).
I recommend a humdifier disinfectant be dumped in the water occasionally. Another method to accomplish disinfection is to dump a few pennies in the water-pan. (Works in A/C evaporators too) The copper prevents baterial growth.
Let us know how it all turns out!
On whole-house furnace humidifiers, one sometimes sets the thing to correspond to OUTDOOR temps (*F). These types of controls are normally located on the return-air plenum. It selects the proper humidity indoors (and often references what the analogous recommended indoor RH level will be provided at that setting.)I'd suggest you raise the setting slightly twice a week until the windows in the house just barely become moist during a cold snap.
If you have a hygrometer (measures humidity) you may want to ensure indoor levels hover around 40% RH [or slightly less] to avoid growth of mold (airborne) and formation of mildew (mold on surfaces).
I recommend a humdifier disinfectant be dumped in the water occasionally. Another method to accomplish disinfection is to dump a few pennies in the water-pan. (Works in A/C evaporators too) The copper prevents baterial growth.
Let us know how it all turns out!
sudsmaster
Well-known member
"I always think my house looks so much better with damp
I suppose that would depend on whose underwear it is...
I suppose that would depend on whose underwear it is...
Assuming that each dryer load is one hour in duration, this article estimates 2.0 kwh per load.
Just click on the bright ideas link:
http://www.courant.com/business/hc-electricgraphic0210.artfeb10,0,7592108.story
Just click on the bright ideas link:
http://www.courant.com/business/hc-electricgraphic0210.artfeb10,0,7592108.story
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