Hello Again, and well.......

[twintubber]

And now, the Maytag

Here's a few pics of it as it is.
Dirty and in rough shape inside, but I love it and it's still my favorite dishwasher of ALL time.

 

[whitetub]

Congratulations on getting these nice dishwashers...two classics..

Now you need to get yourself a real Kitchenaid silverware basket. Otherwise, it just does not look right.

Enjoy your machines

 

[twintubber]

Hi whitetub!

Actually, I'm quite glad it didn't come with the silverware basket.
Not only did it get the price lowered from the seller, but I wouldn't have used it anyway. Never had any intention of it either.
It's just too big for me. I like a very small silverware basket so I can have as much usable space for dishware and cookware. And I like it near the back-not at the front of the rack.
The one I'm using right now is from my newer Bosch it's slightly larger than the one from my older Bosch, and I'm not sure I want to use it either. I may switch it for the smaller one again and include the larger basket with the Bosch when I sell it.
I also have a basket from a GE I had a few years ago before I got the second Bosch and I used it today in the KA as well to see if I like it's placement in the machine better.
You can see my configurations in the pics attached.
I did a very mixed load on Normal and it came out almost perfect.
Tilted rack too for this load.

 

[twintubber]

The ACTUAL Final Rinse Sani Temperature?

I'm a bit confused about the actual temperature for the final Sani-Rinse in my machine.
Prior to the 19, it seems that all the machines heated to 180oF.
The Sales Brochure for my KDS-19 that I downloaded from this site, states:

+All models have a dual element Sani Heat Element. Both elements, or 1400 watts, automatically heat standing water to:
*150F-during the two soak periods of Soak & Scrub Cycles
*150F-before circulation of the first rinse or pre-wash of all complete wash and dry cycles (second rinse for Heavy Wash)
*150F-before circulation of the final rinse of all complete wash and dry cycles
One element, or 700 watts, helps to maintain and even raise circulating water temperature during the applicable rinses and main washes of all complete wash and dry cycles.

Now, in the Operating Manual for the KDS-20, (which I almost got last November), that I also downloaded from this site, states:

SANI HEAT LIGHT
Light comes on when water in the dishwasher is being heated to approximately 150F (66C). It also comes on for the last rinse of the Sani Cycle when the water is heated to approximately 165F (74C).
Whenever the light is on, there is a pause in the wash action.

I can only assume from all the brocheres, Instruction Manuals, and user's experiences on here, that I am only getting a 150F final rinse in ANY of my cycles.
ANd that seems exclusive to only the 19, as the 20 obviously was raised to 165.
Can anyone explain this fully to me?
Thanks!

 

[twintubber]

My final silverware basket decision.....

I'm sticking with the smaller basket from the Bosch.
And it fits better than the larger one without scratching or damaging the finish on the tines from fitting it in and constantly removing and replacing it when unloading it. It fits perfectly actually. You can se in the pics how the left 'pin' fits into a spot on the basket and helps to keep it secure.
Here's a few pics of how it's set-up now.
I'm sure you can see the vast increase in capacity of the lower rack by utilizing a much smaller silverware basket.

 

[twintubber]

Upper Rack

Also, I'm keeping the upper rack tilted, (for now, anyway).
Both for extra space in the bottom for items in the silverware basket, but also for better drainage for some of my coffee mugs.
I usually don't like a tilted rack, but it seems to work ok with this machine and it feels "good", so far!
Lovin' mah KitchenAid

 

[twintubber]

Suddenly, it's a "One-Arm Bandit"

I finally got to put the KA to the ultimate test this morning.
My garbage cans.
I usually run these through the dishwasher once a month.
The Bosch has a removable upper rack and a spray head to put over the spout that feeds the upper spray arm during the cycle.
In the KA, the rack comes out easily enough, and the manual shows how to do so anyway. You can see the pins on the glass top on the dishwasher and the spout in the machine between the bins in the last pic.
And my bins fit BETTER in this machine than they ever did in the Bosch.
Not only that, but after the final rinse, I opened the machine as I usually do to shake of all the water and water that collects in the grooves.
Then let the machine finish the "No-Heat" dry portion of the cycle.
I couldn't believe how dry it actually came out.
With the Bosch, they came out of the cycle so wet, that they had to dry overnight to be ready for use again.
WOW!!!
Great machine.
Pics are AFTER the washing/drying process was complete.
Oh, Soak & Scrub Cycle for these guys!

 

[whitetub]

Cool. That's a lot of garbage cans...

I find that silverware basket way too small for me, but it's your machine.

How tall a glass can you fit on the lowest side of the tilted upper rack?

 

[philr]

I guess it would be easier to use the Maytag reverse rack or a 17 series KA or earlier to wash garbage cans as you don't have to deal with the center spray arm outlet (did you have to block it?)

I like to wash plastic items in the dishwasher as hand washing them to get rid of the oily residues is difficult. I don't think I'll try to wash garbage cans in my Spray-Tube Frigidaire though as there's no wash action under the lower rack!

 

[whitetub]

It would be hard to fit in a garbage can in the Maytag reverse rack. Because of the center tower, and the shape of the bottom rack.

 

[philr]

  You're right, I didn't think about the elevated center section and tower! The garbage cans would have to be short ones!!

 

[twintubber]

It's only 2 cans actually

The one black part is a liner that fits into the white part and then there is the top for it. And one other bin. So it's actually only 2 garbage cans, but one is taken apart.
Yes, I've done cans in the Maytag RR before.
I figured out a very clever way to do so too.
You remove BOTH racks, then you 'place' the upper rack into the lower racks place and over the spray tower.
Then you load the cans around the spray tower and, BOOM, you're back at the Mall!!!

I find North Americans prefer a much larger silverware basket than is usually necessary.
It's all personal choice, of course, but I think they make them far too big in NA. I remember years ago when Sears dropped the "In-The-Door" silverware basket for that ridiculousely oversized silverware rack on the entire right side of the rack.
The adding of a "Bull-Nose" front rack did absolutely nothing to make up for an utterly incompetent design flaw.
I need as much space for dishes and cookware as I can since I have doubles of almost everything. Especially lots of room for pots.
One would be amazed how much I can stuff into that silverware basket and get excellent cleaning results every time.
And it is ONLY for silverware. It is not for mixed items.
Small items and plastic 'thingy's', etc. go in the other dishwasher-not the main one which is solely for dishes, cutlery and cookware. (Except for now while I use just the KA for a couple of weeks, then no more plastics).

One of my main reasons for having two dishwashers is that the second one is usually for all of my plastics. I have a ton of Tupperware (the real stuff btw), and lots of larger pieces of it in the collection as well.
Running them through the dishwasher gets them nicely clean and degreased, etc.

And yeah, a spray tube dishwasher pro'lly wouldn't be too accommodating to large cans as such.

I'll post a pic or two tomorrow of the upper rack with my tallest items in it.

 

[twintubber]

And finally..........

it's all done!
Presenting my KitchenAid KDS-19C in all it's glory
All cleaned up, fully installed and completely operational.
Ok, the Stainless Steel panels need a little more elbow grease, but I'll get to it, but in the meantime.....
OMG-I finally have a KitchenAid!!!!!
And I love it!

Also, it looks so,,,,,INDUSTRIAL

 

[twintubber]

Oh my, what's this now?

So, I think I may have discovered the problem causing the small leak in the front of the machine near the left side.
As I had mentioned in and earlier post, there is a slight leak in the front of the machine due to the gasket seal UNDER the door having a gap and continuously sliding off track.
I wonder if finding this broken little O-ring might have something to do with it?
I have tried to get the seal back in place, and although it is temporarily "holding" itself in place, the problem has not been resolved in it's entirety. As I said earlier, it's like trying to get a Ziploc bag to seal when the two pieces are "off" and can't align themselves. That's the best description I can come up with for the problem.
I'm considering taking the front panel off to see if I can access the gasket better that way, because as it is, it is very difficult to deal with trying to fix it from underneath the door inside the wash chamber.
Any suggestions? Advice? Know what that part is for? And how important is it?
Please let me know, anyone who can so I can get this resolved before the leak causes any damage to the machine and it's longevity.
Thanks!
I sure do like this machine a LOT! Although, it DOES have it's flaws in the washing performance, and they are very obvious flaws at that.
But as I learn it's weaknesses, I learn what not to do with it and what not to let get into the machine.

 

[philr]

It could be the O-Ring that seals the detergent dispenser door shaft. 

 

[stevet]

Look elsewhere, first

That item you pictured is too big to be the seal on the detergent door shafts.

Take off the stainless trim strips on each side of the door. Retighten the screws that secure the hinges to the tank. Then pull the machine out a bit so you can see where the door goes into the tank. If the door doesn't close tightly enough, water may be spraying past the gasket and running down the door. Those corner gaskets you refer to are not the major preventer of leaks that many think they are. Water could be leaking at the top of the door and running down to the floor or anywhere along the door's perimeter. Some detective work is needed.

If the door latch needs to be adjusted to make the door close more tightly, it is done by shimming the latch by placing small, thin washers between the latch and the tank by removing the screws one at a time and adding shims. Most of the time you can get away with 1 or 2 on just the top screws and solve the problem, but I always liked to keep the latch mechanism "squared" up in the machine and added a shim to each corner as needed. You will be amazed at the difference that can make.
Also, make sure that the gasket is making good and smooth contact all along its length with the tank. Water under pressure can work its way through any opening between the two.

Do all of this with the door panel off the machine so you can also see if there are any leaks coming from the door itself.

Try this and see what you find.

 

[stevet]

So it's got you Flawed?

Just wondering what specific flaws you have found? I would agree that every machine has its "quirks" but not all of them could or should be considered flaws.
What seems to be giving you trouble?

 

[twintubber]

Hi stevet!

The leak is definitely due to the lower gasket being slightly "off" as I have mentioned.
That is where the leak is and because of it is how I discovered that the gasket was off.
I've had the front panel off and everything is fine behind there as well.
I just have to get that gasket back in place fully and all will be fine.
As for the performance, it does have a slight yibble deposit issue (thanks Nate for that expression!).
As barcoboy pointed out, the lack of the constant rinse at the top of the wash tub is a major design flaw.
I also find the filter isn't the most effective as it has allowed food bits to pass through and not only redeposit on top of the dishes in the upper rack, but it also gets into the spray arm holes in the upper wash arm. MINOR amounts that is, but it has happened a few times now.
I'm getting better at understanding what shouldn't be allowed to pass through it, but I would never have these problems with the Maytag or with my Bosch's.
The Maytag Micro-Mesh Filter is awesome at filtering out anything and everything. And my Bosch's are great at that too I must say.
But as I said, I'm learning and getting better at knowing it's weaknesses and how to work with it and therefore make it work for me

 

[twintubber]

New Question....

So, I've figured out this machines weakness as I'm getting to know it these few weeks now.
The biggest issue is, as barcoboy pointed out, the lack of the "Constant-Rinse". Because of this, I would like to ask that if anyone has parts or is parting with an 18, I'd like to acquire the "upper" spray connection for the "Constant-Rinse".
That would make this one AWESOME performing machine.
I'm loving it so far and wow, to actually HEAR a dishwasher again.......it's 'music to my ears'!

 

[twintubber]

Oh, btw.....

Should I make a video?
I could set up the camera to film it in action.
But no open door fun. Just the lights and the control panel and well......not much as it progresses through the cycle.
Let me know if that would be of interest to anyone and I'll try it out. Otherwise, no need to.
Thanks!

 

[twintubber]

So why don't I LOVE it?

This machine is awesome, fun, pleasurable to load, etc......
But clean the damn dishes!
The problem is what I remember of KA's of this era-deposits left on dishes.
It has nothing to do with the machine itself not working fully, nor improper water temp, pressure, detergent, whatever.
It's what I remember of dishwashers of the 80's-an inability to deal with 'yibbles' in the upper rack and deposits on dishes in general.
And the machines' worst enemy is coffee grounds.
I can tell you, the Maytag will NOT give me these kinds of problems.
Enjoying the KitchenAid, but getting more excited about the Maytag getting fixed up and running as the KitchenAid disappoints me highly.