Help! Maytag A-208 outer tub

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IT’S ALIVE!!!!!!!! ALIVE!!!!!

It’s been a while since I provided an update, so I figured now would be a good time. Since I last posted, I have removed rust from and painted the base frame and part of the cabinet, as well as all the hardware. I’ve also installed a toggle switch to allow me to bypass the lid switch at any given time. In the process of reassembling the machine, I’ve replaced the tub brake, belts, brake bearing, motor glides (I added 2 extra springs to the carriage), damper pads, and water switch hose. I’ve reassembled it just enough to test the transmission, and I’m happy to say it works. I’m not really able to go any farther until I sort out this outer tub. I’m still keeping an eye on Facebook marketplace, but I have yet to see anything. However, I do know a local laundromat owner with rows and rows of standard capacity coin-op Maytags. I’m considering buying one of those machines, and welding the lip from it to my outer tub, as the commercial washers don’t have a bleach dispenser. Is it advisable to do this, and if so, what is the best way to seal it so it doesn’t rust?

Combo52...
Thanks for the advice! I managed to get it reasonably straight. Unless I end up with a parts machine, that’s probably as good as it’s gonna get, as I can’t find the part anywhere online. As far as contacting Tim, that would be wonderful. What is the best way to do that?

Good-Shepherd...
Thanks for the info. I was leery of the hardware after soaking it, so I sprayed everything with some clear spray paint to coat it. I decided not to worry about cleaning the damper on the outside, as it won’t be visible with the machine together.

Thatwasherguy.

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More accomplished...

I’ve got a new water injector installed, complete with new hoses, and a new sleeve. I blew in the water valves to make sure I wired them correctly, and I did. At this point, the only thing holding me back is the outer tub. It’s been a lot of fun working on it so far.

Repairguy...
Thanks for the compliment! It means a lot after working so hard and spending so much money on a machine.

Combo52...
Thanks! I sent you an E-mail with the information.

robbinsandmyers...
LOL! I meant to add in my previous post that the heater was there so that I could paint, as it was about 30 degrees outside, and about 52 in the garage, which was too cold for the paint to dry properly.

Thatwasherguy.
 
It’s been a while...

But I’m back! It seems that a few of the pictures were lost, possibly due to the hacking that happened a couple months ago, so I’ve reposted them. Currently, I’m working on patching the existing outer tub with some JB Water Weld. (I REALLY don’t want to part out another machine if I can avoid it) I’m wondering if I could bend the clamp in the spot that has been patched, as I don’t want to file the JB Weld so thin that it breaks from the pressure of the clamp. Once I bend the clamp, I can’t straighten it again, and I don’t want to ruin it in vain. If all else fails, is it advisable to smear a thin layer of gasket maker where the seal meets the two pieces of the tub in the area that is patched to stop it from leaking? (It currently leaks there, but it’s nowhere near as bad as it was with that hole in the tub.)
Thanks,
Thatwasherguy.

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advisable to smear a thin layer of gasket maker

IMO bending the clamp would be a last resort if sealant didn't work.

I've used Permatex RTV sealant on some rusted areas on outer tubs with good results. Use what is needed to get a good seal no need to go thin, you don't want to have to take it apart again.

And remember to check the clearance between the tub and the cabinet top cover.
 
Sweet!

Thanks for the info! I just got done putting the outer tub back in and installing the new bearing and seal with the instructions in the linked thread. (It was WAYYYY more informative and helpful than the half-sheet of paper included with the kit, LOL.). At this point, I think there’s only one more thing I need to know in order to get this thing going. The plastic deflector for the bleach port on the outer tub was brittle from years of exposure to the various laundry chemicals it was exposed to for 43 years before I got the machine, and it broke when I removed it to rust-proof the port. Is this a critical part, or can I run the machine without it? (The LAST thing I want is to put this machine back together only to find water gurgling out of the bleach dispenser.). I looked up the part number online, (I bought a bunch of Maytag service manuals a while back, and have service manuals and parts catalogs to everything from AMP’s to New Generations.). but found nothing. If it is a critical part, does anyone have one they’d be willing to sell?
Thanks in advance,
Thatwasherguy.

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It's not a critical part. I have never ran a machine with a bleach cup without the shield. You can give it a try without it. The worst case scenario is that the bleach cup fills up with water (may overflow back into the tub) during the initial spin, but once up to speed, should be empty.
 
SHE’S RUNNING!!!

My Cinderella is finally running again! Thank you all so much for the help. Without it, I don’t know where I’d be right now. I’m just so grateful that I’m not the only one who loves these vintage washers. It doesn’t appear that the bleach port not having the deflector will be a problem, so I’m gonna go ahead and put the lid back on the tub. I didn’t for the first small load test, and quickly regretted it when it went into spin. At least I was able to turn it off before water got into the motor. I’m momentarily letting it dry out before I finish draining it. I’m about to post a few before and after pictures in another thread for anyone that wants to see them.
Thanks,
Thatwasherguy.

 
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