No oil on the gasket. Clean both halves with brake clean (carb cleaner has oil in it). I smear a thin layer of RTV between the bolt holes on the upper cover. This holds the gasket in place so it doesn't fall into the transmission oil during assembly.....yeah, been there done that. Torque the cover bolts to 10 foot pounds.
Help! Maytag A-208 outer tub
- Thread starter thatwasherguy
- Start date
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thatwasherguy
Well-known member
Progress Update...
I managed to separate the brake and the damper without reassembling the machine. I used vice grips to remove it, as I couldn’t find the tool anywhere. That said, is it advisable to use vice grips to install the brand new brake? It seems to mar the surface pretty good. I was also wondering if this damper cup was still good. I think it is, but I don’t want to take this apart again. I also managed to get the motor carriage out. I think I know why it was so hard to move. The track was rough as a result of a pretty good amount of rust. I’ve got some of the parts soaking in some rust remover, and have begun removing the rust from the baseplate with a wire brush on a drill. Speaking of the baseplate, is there a specific spray paint you would recommend for it? I want something that will adhere well, and block the rust. I don’t care how it looks, as it will be inside the machine, and won’t be seen.
qsd-Dan...
Thank you so much for the info! I’ve done what you’ve suggested, and it’s way easier than doing it the old fashioned way. Work smarter not harder, right?
Thanks,
Thatwasherguy.
I managed to separate the brake and the damper without reassembling the machine. I used vice grips to remove it, as I couldn’t find the tool anywhere. That said, is it advisable to use vice grips to install the brand new brake? It seems to mar the surface pretty good. I was also wondering if this damper cup was still good. I think it is, but I don’t want to take this apart again. I also managed to get the motor carriage out. I think I know why it was so hard to move. The track was rough as a result of a pretty good amount of rust. I’ve got some of the parts soaking in some rust remover, and have begun removing the rust from the baseplate with a wire brush on a drill. Speaking of the baseplate, is there a specific spray paint you would recommend for it? I want something that will adhere well, and block the rust. I don’t care how it looks, as it will be inside the machine, and won’t be seen.
qsd-Dan...
Thank you so much for the info! I’ve done what you’ve suggested, and it’s way easier than doing it the old fashioned way. Work smarter not harder, right?
Thanks,
Thatwasherguy.
Maytag washer damper
The damper assembly looks good reuse it, the brake assembly does not have to be screwed in very tight, grab it with the channel locks and give it one little tap that’s all it takes it tends to self tighten it self it will never come loose in the Machine during normal use and install the small locking clip and screw.
Looks like you’re making great progress the machine should be working along soon.
John L
The damper assembly looks good reuse it, the brake assembly does not have to be screwed in very tight, grab it with the channel locks and give it one little tap that’s all it takes it tends to self tighten it self it will never come loose in the Machine during normal use and install the small locking clip and screw.
Looks like you’re making great progress the machine should be working along soon.
John L
thatwasherguy
Well-known member
Wonderful! Thanks for the info! The condition of the damper was one of the main things I was worried about during this restoration, as one of the damper pads had partially torn away from the base, and was twisted at a roughly 90 degree angle to where it should have been. I do believe that I got to this machine in the nick of time, as that pad was all but gone. There were several other things like that on this machine (such as rust) that were minor problems that would have turned major before too long. By the way, where should I clamp the new brake with the channel locks? I spent around $100 on it (the old one had been squealing since I got it, and the seller said it had been doing it for a long time, so I figured it was probably shot from running without oil for so long), so I don’t want to damage it. I was also wondering how to oil the centrifugal switch and bearings on the motor (The washer has an Emerson, the dryer has a Westinghouse).
Thanks for the compliment! I really appreciate it!
Thanks,
Thatwasherguy.
Thanks for the compliment! I really appreciate it!
Thanks,
Thatwasherguy.
good-shepherd
Well-known member
a specific spray paint
I've used Krylon or Rustoleum smoke gray for the base plate. An epoxy paint would be pretty tough a well. For a primer you could use a self-etching automotive primer or a zinc based primer which is what Maytag used.
I've used Krylon or Rustoleum smoke gray for the base plate. An epoxy paint would be pretty tough a well. For a primer you could use a self-etching automotive primer or a zinc based primer which is what Maytag used.
thatwasherguy
Well-known member
Just remembered something else...
The thrust washer got damaged when I had to chisel the tub nut off of the machine. Is this still usable, or do I need a new or good used one? I’ve still got the same parts soaking in the Evapo-rust, I’ve just flipped them over. It doesn’t seem to work as quick as the Krud-Kutter, but it’s way cheaper, and it’s seems to be doing the job. (Krud-Kutter is close to 50¢ an ounce, so I can only afford to use it on nuts and bolts and the like). Is it advisable to soak the damper in Evapo-rust? It seems to have some corrosion on it, and I don’t want it spreading to the underside.
qsd-dan...
Thanks for the tip! It feels smooth on the inside except for one tiny spot, however, there are a few small gouges. They look to me like manufacturing impurities, though. Is this spot enough to warrant a new damper?
Good-shepherd...
Great, thanks for the info! That’s what I’ll look for when purchasing the paint!
Thanks, Thatwasherguy.
The thrust washer got damaged when I had to chisel the tub nut off of the machine. Is this still usable, or do I need a new or good used one? I’ve still got the same parts soaking in the Evapo-rust, I’ve just flipped them over. It doesn’t seem to work as quick as the Krud-Kutter, but it’s way cheaper, and it’s seems to be doing the job. (Krud-Kutter is close to 50¢ an ounce, so I can only afford to use it on nuts and bolts and the like). Is it advisable to soak the damper in Evapo-rust? It seems to have some corrosion on it, and I don’t want it spreading to the underside.
qsd-dan...
Thanks for the tip! It feels smooth on the inside except for one tiny spot, however, there are a few small gouges. They look to me like manufacturing impurities, though. Is this spot enough to warrant a new damper?
Good-shepherd...
Great, thanks for the info! That’s what I’ll look for when purchasing the paint!
Thanks, Thatwasherguy.
SS Tub Protector
This collar is to minimize damage to the porcelain wash basket where it clamps in place.
If you can straighten it out you could reuse it, but if you have a spare I wold replace it.
I don't even know your name, but you should get in touch with my friend Tim in Kentucky, he has extra MTs that he would probably give you including a few nice center dial pairs.
John L.
This collar is to minimize damage to the porcelain wash basket where it clamps in place.
If you can straighten it out you could reuse it, but if you have a spare I wold replace it.
I don't even know your name, but you should get in touch with my friend Tim in Kentucky, he has extra MTs that he would probably give you including a few nice center dial pairs.
John L.
good-shepherd
Well-known member
advisable to soak the damper in Evapo-rust
No. Damper is aluminum, Evapo-rust probably some has kind of acidic base
Some people have used metal polish to clean up the damper such as Turtle wax Metal and Chrome polish.
No. Damper is aluminum, Evapo-rust probably some has kind of acidic base
Some people have used metal polish to clean up the damper such as Turtle wax Metal and Chrome polish.
good-shepherd
Well-known member
parts soaking in the Evapo-rust
Be careful with that, if it has an acidic base it could strip the protective coating off parts along with the rust.
MT washer legs are galvanized for example.
Be careful with that, if it has an acidic base it could strip the protective coating off parts along with the rust.
MT washer legs are galvanized for example.
thatwasherguy
Well-known member
IT’S ALIVE!!!!!!!! ALIVE!!!!!
It’s been a while since I provided an update, so I figured now would be a good time. Since I last posted, I have removed rust from and painted the base frame and part of the cabinet, as well as all the hardware. I’ve also installed a toggle switch to allow me to bypass the lid switch at any given time. In the process of reassembling the machine, I’ve replaced the tub brake, belts, brake bearing, motor glides (I added 2 extra springs to the carriage), damper pads, and water switch hose. I’ve reassembled it just enough to test the transmission, and I’m happy to say it works. I’m not really able to go any farther until I sort out this outer tub. I’m still keeping an eye on Facebook marketplace, but I have yet to see anything. However, I do know a local laundromat owner with rows and rows of standard capacity coin-op Maytags. I’m considering buying one of those machines, and welding the lip from it to my outer tub, as the commercial washers don’t have a bleach dispenser. Is it advisable to do this, and if so, what is the best way to seal it so it doesn’t rust?
Combo52...
Thanks for the advice! I managed to get it reasonably straight. Unless I end up with a parts machine, that’s probably as good as it’s gonna get, as I can’t find the part anywhere online. As far as contacting Tim, that would be wonderful. What is the best way to do that?
Good-Shepherd...
Thanks for the info. I was leery of the hardware after soaking it, so I sprayed everything with some clear spray paint to coat it. I decided not to worry about cleaning the damper on the outside, as it won’t be visible with the machine together.
Thatwasherguy.
It’s been a while since I provided an update, so I figured now would be a good time. Since I last posted, I have removed rust from and painted the base frame and part of the cabinet, as well as all the hardware. I’ve also installed a toggle switch to allow me to bypass the lid switch at any given time. In the process of reassembling the machine, I’ve replaced the tub brake, belts, brake bearing, motor glides (I added 2 extra springs to the carriage), damper pads, and water switch hose. I’ve reassembled it just enough to test the transmission, and I’m happy to say it works. I’m not really able to go any farther until I sort out this outer tub. I’m still keeping an eye on Facebook marketplace, but I have yet to see anything. However, I do know a local laundromat owner with rows and rows of standard capacity coin-op Maytags. I’m considering buying one of those machines, and welding the lip from it to my outer tub, as the commercial washers don’t have a bleach dispenser. Is it advisable to do this, and if so, what is the best way to seal it so it doesn’t rust?
Combo52...
Thanks for the advice! I managed to get it reasonably straight. Unless I end up with a parts machine, that’s probably as good as it’s gonna get, as I can’t find the part anywhere online. As far as contacting Tim, that would be wonderful. What is the best way to do that?
Good-Shepherd...
Thanks for the info. I was leery of the hardware after soaking it, so I sprayed everything with some clear spray paint to coat it. I decided not to worry about cleaning the damper on the outside, as it won’t be visible with the machine together.
Thatwasherguy.
repairguy
Well-known member
Congrats it’s looking good!
Send me an email with your contact information and I’ll forward it to Tim.
My email address is combo [email protected]
John L
My email address is combo [email protected]
John L
For a moment there..........
Your Maytag identified as a halogen heater before reverting back to a washer lol
Your Maytag identified as a halogen heater before reverting back to a washer lol
thatwasherguy
Well-known member
More accomplished...
I’ve got a new water injector installed, complete with new hoses, and a new sleeve. I blew in the water valves to make sure I wired them correctly, and I did. At this point, the only thing holding me back is the outer tub. It’s been a lot of fun working on it so far.
Repairguy...
Thanks for the compliment! It means a lot after working so hard and spending so much money on a machine.
Combo52...
Thanks! I sent you an E-mail with the information.
robbinsandmyers...
LOL! I meant to add in my previous post that the heater was there so that I could paint, as it was about 30 degrees outside, and about 52 in the garage, which was too cold for the paint to dry properly.
Thatwasherguy.
I’ve got a new water injector installed, complete with new hoses, and a new sleeve. I blew in the water valves to make sure I wired them correctly, and I did. At this point, the only thing holding me back is the outer tub. It’s been a lot of fun working on it so far.
Repairguy...
Thanks for the compliment! It means a lot after working so hard and spending so much money on a machine.
Combo52...
Thanks! I sent you an E-mail with the information.
robbinsandmyers...
LOL! I meant to add in my previous post that the heater was there so that I could paint, as it was about 30 degrees outside, and about 52 in the garage, which was too cold for the paint to dry properly.
Thatwasherguy.
thatwasherguy
Well-known member
It’s been a while...
But I’m back! It seems that a few of the pictures were lost, possibly due to the hacking that happened a couple months ago, so I’ve reposted them. Currently, I’m working on patching the existing outer tub with some JB Water Weld. (I REALLY don’t want to part out another machine if I can avoid it) I’m wondering if I could bend the clamp in the spot that has been patched, as I don’t want to file the JB Weld so thin that it breaks from the pressure of the clamp. Once I bend the clamp, I can’t straighten it again, and I don’t want to ruin it in vain. If all else fails, is it advisable to smear a thin layer of gasket maker where the seal meets the two pieces of the tub in the area that is patched to stop it from leaking? (It currently leaks there, but it’s nowhere near as bad as it was with that hole in the tub.)
Thanks,
Thatwasherguy.
But I’m back! It seems that a few of the pictures were lost, possibly due to the hacking that happened a couple months ago, so I’ve reposted them. Currently, I’m working on patching the existing outer tub with some JB Water Weld. (I REALLY don’t want to part out another machine if I can avoid it) I’m wondering if I could bend the clamp in the spot that has been patched, as I don’t want to file the JB Weld so thin that it breaks from the pressure of the clamp. Once I bend the clamp, I can’t straighten it again, and I don’t want to ruin it in vain. If all else fails, is it advisable to smear a thin layer of gasket maker where the seal meets the two pieces of the tub in the area that is patched to stop it from leaking? (It currently leaks there, but it’s nowhere near as bad as it was with that hole in the tub.)
Thanks,
Thatwasherguy.
good-shepherd
Well-known member
advisable to smear a thin layer of gasket maker
IMO bending the clamp would be a last resort if sealant didn't work.
I've used Permatex RTV sealant on some rusted areas on outer tubs with good results. Use what is needed to get a good seal no need to go thin, you don't want to have to take it apart again.
And remember to check the clearance between the tub and the cabinet top cover.
IMO bending the clamp would be a last resort if sealant didn't work.
I've used Permatex RTV sealant on some rusted areas on outer tubs with good results. Use what is needed to get a good seal no need to go thin, you don't want to have to take it apart again.
And remember to check the clearance between the tub and the cabinet top cover.
thatwasherguy
Well-known member
Sweet!
Thanks for the info! I just got done putting the outer tub back in and installing the new bearing and seal with the instructions in the linked thread. (It was WAYYYY more informative and helpful than the half-sheet of paper included with the kit, LOL.). At this point, I think there’s only one more thing I need to know in order to get this thing going. The plastic deflector for the bleach port on the outer tub was brittle from years of exposure to the various laundry chemicals it was exposed to for 43 years before I got the machine, and it broke when I removed it to rust-proof the port. Is this a critical part, or can I run the machine without it? (The LAST thing I want is to put this machine back together only to find water gurgling out of the bleach dispenser.). I looked up the part number online, (I bought a bunch of Maytag service manuals a while back, and have service manuals and parts catalogs to everything from AMP’s to New Generations.). but found nothing. If it is a critical part, does anyone have one they’d be willing to sell?
Thanks in advance,
Thatwasherguy.
Thanks for the info! I just got done putting the outer tub back in and installing the new bearing and seal with the instructions in the linked thread. (It was WAYYYY more informative and helpful than the half-sheet of paper included with the kit, LOL.). At this point, I think there’s only one more thing I need to know in order to get this thing going. The plastic deflector for the bleach port on the outer tub was brittle from years of exposure to the various laundry chemicals it was exposed to for 43 years before I got the machine, and it broke when I removed it to rust-proof the port. Is this a critical part, or can I run the machine without it? (The LAST thing I want is to put this machine back together only to find water gurgling out of the bleach dispenser.). I looked up the part number online, (I bought a bunch of Maytag service manuals a while back, and have service manuals and parts catalogs to everything from AMP’s to New Generations.). but found nothing. If it is a critical part, does anyone have one they’d be willing to sell?
Thanks in advance,
Thatwasherguy.
It's not a critical part. I have never ran a machine with a bleach cup without the shield. You can give it a try without it. The worst case scenario is that the bleach cup fills up with water (may overflow back into the tub) during the initial spin, but once up to speed, should be empty.
thatwasherguy
Well-known member
SHE’S RUNNING!!!
My Cinderella is finally running again! Thank you all so much for the help. Without it, I don’t know where I’d be right now. I’m just so grateful that I’m not the only one who loves these vintage washers. It doesn’t appear that the bleach port not having the deflector will be a problem, so I’m gonna go ahead and put the lid back on the tub. I didn’t for the first small load test, and quickly regretted it when it went into spin. At least I was able to turn it off before water got into the motor. I’m momentarily letting it dry out before I finish draining it. I’m about to post a few before and after pictures in another thread for anyone that wants to see them.
Thanks,
Thatwasherguy.
My Cinderella is finally running again! Thank you all so much for the help. Without it, I don’t know where I’d be right now. I’m just so grateful that I’m not the only one who loves these vintage washers. It doesn’t appear that the bleach port not having the deflector will be a problem, so I’m gonna go ahead and put the lid back on the tub. I didn’t for the first small load test, and quickly regretted it when it went into spin. At least I was able to turn it off before water got into the motor. I’m momentarily letting it dry out before I finish draining it. I’m about to post a few before and after pictures in another thread for anyone that wants to see them.
Thanks,
Thatwasherguy.
