HELP PLEASE! My GE washer run on slow speed only!

Automatic Washer - The world's coolest Washing Machines, Dryers and Dishwashers

Help Support :

kenmoreguy89

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 23, 2010
Messages
2,995
Location
Valenza Piemonte, Italy- Soon to be US immigrant.
Hi all my ge filter-flo, 2 speed washer runs on slow speed only,this morning i run a load of wool on delicate cycle and slow speed, then i did a second load with whithes, i set the cycle and the normal speed and it started washing but it remained on slow speed, i tried to push again the speed buttons while washing and i only hear a "clunk" while changing in the back but nothing happend, what could be?
The belt should be changed, but it's not that wich slip, it's the motor wich runs on slow speed only, i know it's loud and the water of the "waterfall" wich goes on the filter comes out slow.....
 
first of all..the motor itself is a one speed, always running at high....hence the fact the pump and water flow should be normal flow at all times, during filtering and spinning.......

and also that you hear the "click" of the solenoid that holds the arm so the clutch spins at the lower or higher speed.....

I would estimate your problem is the 2 speed clutch, and considering your saying its "loud", your having issues inside somewhere that needs attention, which could be anyone of many things gone wrong inside.....even possible the clamp inside has come loose, which is more probable
 
I've opened the back and not sure of what i was doing trying handling the motor and the clutch, under the clutch there was something round shaped with some square ledges, this thing turned in both directions, so i started turning it, at one point I felt that there was a certain resistance, I continued and after a "clank" it continued to move, I started the cycle and magically started to work as it should, i've only heard a sound like something slammed under the clutch for some seconds, but after I did not hear anything....after this description i'd like to know if someone can tell me what is happened, and if i've definitively fixed it, i won't try to use the slow speed again before.....
 
Clutch.

A new clutch is GE part #WH49X265. It's NLA, but one can be had on Ebay. Changing it out is a bit of a pain (the roll pin on top, specifically). You can also rebuild it. It's not too hard (new shoes / bearings). You can also replace the motor and clutch together. It's more $$ for the parts, but easier to do. There's a motor relay that should be replaced if you do this work. I don't know why it should be replaced, but it's clearly stated in the scanned repair guide on this site. I didn't replace the relay on mine and it killed my motor within 2 weeks.

Also, never change the speed with the washer running!

Good luck,
Dave
 
I have to echo the warning not to change the speed when the motor is running, too: That can cause the motor to run on one speed...

(Hopefully, though, when it's done constantly; I did that on my grandma's GE once, even being aware of that fact, but my one time just to see it run on 'Slow', then back to 'Normal', luckily didn't hurt it...)

-- Dave
 
Thank you Dave for the part #, i tried to run it on slow speed but it only wash on normal speed now, better than slow anyway, i also tried to look on ebay for the part but no results,and some websites gives that one no longer available......
But, you said i could rebuild it? I saw some pictures and honestly I don't from where i could start with it, seems to be so complicated the stuff in that thing......
 
I'm almost sure that it has been damaged for some reasons by the leaking pump.....I've replaced it about 2 weeks ago, the leak should have been sice one month or more, dropping water on the motor and clutch, and damaging the belt also, i've noticed that sometimes slips since then .... in fact, my washer since some weeks used to start from the beginning with a strong agitation, instead of starting with slow agitation for few seconds and then hearing a "clunk" and starting normal agitation as it always did, (and i know also all the filter-flo), but i never thought it was a problem, as it always ran well, then the leak became bigger and i've noticed about.....
 
the clamp I am referring to is the one inside....it holds the clutch to the motor shaft......I have seen 2 that have come loose, and that thing will rattle and work erratic likes its gonna fly apart....with the exception of that top pin, which is a PITA to remove, the assembly is nothing to work on and replace parts.....

if you can find a motor and clutch assembly together, it can be switched out in minutes........I got a whole new assembly and clutch for 25.00......night and day difference when starting up slow and then shifting to high with a new clutch...

its just a matter of how much you want to tear into this thing....
 
Hi, it's not so simple, mine it's a 220 volt washer and i'm in Italy, I'd need a 220 volt motor and clutch assembly (are already rare to find the 120 volts one, i do not think i will be so lucky to find a 220 volt one) i would probably have to get it from U.S or Canada....paying alot for shipping also, i would be more than glad to get a new assembly for 25,00, almost impossible here.....could i try just to fix the clutch? Can it be fixed?

Thanks
 
I saw some pics of the clutch on the web, it seems so complicated all the stuff in there and that's the thing that stop me,i don't know what to do in there, i could even manage it and i wanna keep my washer most possible, i've replaced the oil seal under the pulley last year i took more than one week to get the tranny out, removing basket bolts, basket etc....so i'm a person that of course want to tear in things,but only if these are feasable, no matter the efforts......i just want not to do a mess....
 
Local repair shops do not fix GE or american appliances, they just do the european brands and models, the only ones who fix american appliances are the dealers where you buy it,here in my area many Maytag and Speed Queen dealers but not GE, the nearest GE dealer is about 125miles far from here and they do not fix "older" models of GE nor they have their parts anymore,just new models and new parts for them, but even if were they would be soooo expensive, would be less found one on ebay from U.S, i just found a clutch for now, wish to know if it is necessary to buy a new one or if i can simply fix that one I already have, I'd like to know anyway if someone can explain to me how can i do.....
Thanks
 
That's kinda the hard part, comming apart and going back together is really nothing, it's knowing what is broken if anything, and reassembling....the only way I learned was taking apart and laying all the pieces in a line, and taking lots of pics along the way just for a reminder of how it goes together.

once you get that pesky pin out, the top/outter drum lifts off, its sorta spring loaded, not something that will fly up and off on you, its just a strap of metal across the center pole that holds the shoes in place, and its curved which causes the spring action.....more or less since it does function for you, doesn't sound like its broken inside, more like something got bent out of shape......

you may also want to check and make sure the solenoid with the lever on the motors base plate is popping up and down like it should, this little unit is what touches the finger on the clutch to cause it to run at slow speed.......

we can try and talk you thru this, but a pic of yours would probably help, maybe we can see whats out of alignment for you.......220 or not, your clutch should be the same as the ones we have here in the US

Does the clutch unit as a whole, wobble?.....with it removed from the machine, can you place the unit on a flat surface, and wobble the clutch while the motor remains still........if so, this is just that little C-clamp inside has broken or come loose from the motor shaft...a simple fix

before you give it up to the ghost.....let's see if one of us can get you thru this and repaired.....

worst case is I can probably send you a whole clutch assembly, but your gonna have to mount it to your motor......tighten the clamp, slide the outter drum on top, push down and hammer in that pesky pin.....and your back in action again....
 
Look...

Look at the 1958 GE filter Flo Service Manual scanned in the Library section of AW.org's home page. In it, you'll find tons of info on the GE 2-speed clutch, how it works, and how to service it. I can't figure out how it works, despite its being a relatively simple mechanism that I've taken apart and put back together several times.

Be patient, it's a big .pdf file.
Dave
 
Hi Yes Sure! I will take a pic as soon as possible! Anyway Yes the washer haves the same parts there're in US, mine comes from US, even if it is Canadian Made, anyway i will take a pic of mine soon.
In the meantime i've found on ebay Canada a 120volt motor+clutch assembly wich seems to be the same as mine,i will post the link.
Sorry but i did not understand very well what i've to do with the motor and the clutch to understand if it is the clamp or not, yes I'm able remove the motor assembly, but not sure about how remove the clutch and repair it, i could do everything but i would need some specific and detailed explanations, as this part of the washer it's greek to me.
Thank you so much for your help!

 
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Forgot to say: That metal thing in the picture under the clutch wich is covered by the green and yellow writing seems to be that thing wich turns back and forth, turning it with my finger this afternoon made the washer running from slow speed only to normal speed only, do not know if it is normal..... hope this could tell you more.
 
that solenoid to the right on the motor base plate is what either lets the bottom part of the clutch spin for normal speed, or holds it still for slow speed.....

without it, or not plugged in...your machine should operate at high speed at all times...although your machine will still start out slow and then kick into high gear....its this underneath section that has to wind up and spread its clutches by centrifical force that engages the high speed.....

but at that price...I would grab it.....

is your motor operated on 220....or just seperated to operate on 110.....most Canadian models that I know of still operate at 110, but I could be wrong...
 
Back
Top