Help with 1956 GE Liberator Calrod identification and testing

[tkrego]

Hi!

I purchased a 1956 ranch home with a vintage GE range. My model number is 1J408G1N1 which is the turquoise green color. That info shows it is a 1956 GE Liberator. I was able to purchase PDF's of the user and service manuals online.

The unit is in good shape, we use it every day. I don't know if we will be able to keep it. My girlfriend prefers gas and gets frustrated with the quirks of using an electric range.

My girlfriend is afraid to use the Automatic Calrod surface unit, and I'm not sure how it really works myself. The dial to turn it on is tricky, as it seems to always be on and will heat up with nothing sitting on the element. For now we don't use that element. I've read here that they may not be fixable if broken, though I don't know how to determine if it does work.

I was looking to purchase replacement Calrods, but I'm not sure what the exact model to get since GE has used the same numbers for decades. I think they are the low-profile with an attached trim ring.

What determines the wattage of the Calrod? I've seen 2300 watt units, but the service manual says my element is rated at 2600 watts. I've seen close (exact?) matches on eBay, but haven't pulled the trigger since I'm not sure what I should be getting.

How do I verify if an element is working correctly? The right front element doesn't seem to get as hot as the other large element.

I also have the griddle that plugs into the stove top, we tried to use it once, but it didn't seem to heat up to be usable. I don't know if that was user error on my part, or something related to the Automatic Calrod.

I may end up having to get rid of it. We have a brand new GE JGB750EEFES range that's been sitting in the garage for two years. We don't have a gas hookup in our kitchen and that has delayed getting rid of this classic. For now.

Thanks for any help with getting this back in shape.

 

[turquoisedude]

Automatic Calrod

Love your range! And not just because it's turquoise... LOL   You are very fortunate to still have the original griddle that came with it - these are so frequently missing from these GE ranges. 

 

About the Automatic Calrod unit... I had a similar issue to what you have described about the unit seeming to stay on even when it was set to "off".  I was able to get it to a full off but setting the control dial so that the 'pointer' on the dial was set to the right of the 'auto unit' indicator light lens.   I got tired of having to do that so I removed the control and managed to re-align it so that it was completely off when the dial pointer was lined up to the center of the auto unit text.   I did not document what I did, unfortunately, and I do not recall exactly what I did either... 

 

These early thermostatic control were a bit tricky from the word 'go' and I guess there was a good reason that GE phased out this style after only a few years in production.   I have never really understood how this burner works but it seems that regardless of the initial setting, the element will get fully powered up then the thermostatic element will cycle it off and on again to maintain heat.  I am puzzled by the fact that the burner seems to use both 120v and 240v power which is not the case on the typical 'infinite heat' style burner switch.   

Whatever power it uses, this unit has been terrific for candy-making!  It seems to have just the right slow boil that I need for my 'boiled' cake icings and the only way I can make fudge that turns out is when it's cooked on this burner!

 

As for the griddle, it sounds like it may not be getting full power.  There may be a bad connection somewhere - I'd suggest checking the receptacle for the griddle unit.  However, I have never owned a range like this with the automatic griddle, so this is simply my best guess. 

 

My Automatic Calrod is part of the one-piece stainless counter in a 1956 GE Wonder Kitchen.  

 

 

 

[tkrego]

Turquoisedude, That cookware is gorgeous! Looks like a good match to my GE range.

I did find a good off spot for the automatic calrod dial. I'd say it's less than 1° past the off mark. I shall try to take off the dial and adjust.

I still need to diagnose the other calrods. I don't know how often they fail, or what determines if they are workign correctly.

Thank you for the info!

 

[combo52]

Testing Electric surface elements

Turn all elements on hi and they should get red hot fairly evenly after just a few minutes.

 

Then go to the next lower heat and only one coil will stay RH.

 

The most common problem on an older GE range like this are broken wires where they attach to the element, so if the elements do not pass the test look for broken wires.

 

Generally if a range like this has been well cared for and used properly the surface elements will usually last the life of the range, from your picture I would be surprised if more than is bad if that.

 

John L.

 

[spacepig]

What a beautiful stove! I have a '58 Liberator in turquoise, but a '56 Liberator in turquoise is my holy grail. If you indeed consider selling it, please let me know.

 

[tkrego]

John L,

Are the 8-inch elements interchangeable? The service manual shows the left-rear is 2050 Watts and the right-front is 2600 Watts. I'm assuming the wattage is determined by the wiring of the actual range and not the physical element.

I suppose the same question for the 6-inch elements. The other models have a 1250 Watt element vs 1600 Watts on the Liberator.

We hope to figure out the automatic calrod and try out the griddle again.

Thank you!

 

[combo52]

Testing Electric surface elements

Hi Tim, The wattage is determined by the element, just like a light bulb where you use a 60 watt or a 100 watt bulb in the same fixture.

 

When the range was built they used higher watt elements on the front burners for greater speed which is probably where the phase [ now you are cooking on the front burner ] probably came from.

 

For replacement elements GE only sells 2350 watt for both elements, this was done more than 40 years ago.

 

The element for the automatic burner is unique and not interchangeable with regular 6" elements. [ because of the automatic temperature on the automatic element it was hard to overheat this element and ruin it, I have never seen a bad 6" AE.

 

These are wonderful ranges to cook on and easy to keep clean, this range is far better than any gas range you will ever find on both these points.

 

The 5 heat push-button burner controls are simple to use, just remember Hi = 100% heat the next step down is 50% then 35% then 15% and finally 5% power. You basically only the high heat to boil water, you usually use settings 2&3 for frying once you get the feel for it it is far easier than constantly looking under the pot and trying to guess what flame size will keep something cooking.

 

I have been using a GE cook-top with this control system on it for over 35years and have never been disappointed with the results or its ease of use.

 

John L.

 

[jamiel]

So true--I grew up cooking rice on a GE Keyboard range--nothing better or easier...HI until boiling, stir once, cover and WM for 15 minutes.

 

[ozzie908]

Now that's a beautiful looking stove....

You are so lucky to have such a stunning appliance we sadly never had any decent colours over here until the 70's and then its brown or brown not even a coppertone, We sadly had green and red and other awful colours during the 80's but nothing as lovely to look at than the turquoise stuff you guys have. Seems white has been around since the beginning of time !!!!

Am sure you will get used to the temperature controlled burner and tell the GF there is no gas connection or something just so you can keep this one in the kitchen it goes so well with.

Austin