Hobart Under-Counter Dishwasher
- Thread starter xpanam
- Start date
Help Support :
Hobart Commerical DW
This machine uses the Hobart pump similar to the motor and pump that was used in the kd18-20 home style DWs. The motor in this machine runs on 120 volts as do the controls, and you could also run the heaters on 120 volts also but it would take four times as long to get the holding tank up to temperature, however this may not matter as you may not be doing back to back loads every 5 minutes like you might do in commercial service. Bear in mind that to run this machine on 120 volts you may still need a 30 amp 120 volt line, although you can sometimes disconnect some of the sump heaters to tailor it to the voltage and wiring you have available, so it would probably be possible to run this DW on a 120 volt 20 amp line.
I have this exact DW at our warehouse and may use it in the future as a parts cleaning machine.
This machine uses the Hobart pump similar to the motor and pump that was used in the kd18-20 home style DWs. The motor in this machine runs on 120 volts as do the controls, and you could also run the heaters on 120 volts also but it would take four times as long to get the holding tank up to temperature, however this may not matter as you may not be doing back to back loads every 5 minutes like you might do in commercial service. Bear in mind that to run this machine on 120 volts you may still need a 30 amp 120 volt line, although you can sometimes disconnect some of the sump heaters to tailor it to the voltage and wiring you have available, so it would probably be possible to run this DW on a 120 volt 20 amp line.
I have this exact DW at our warehouse and may use it in the future as a parts cleaning machine.
Only the Booster heater Needs 240/60/1 power
The rest of the dishwasher runs on 120/60/1. As John said it would take 4x longer for the booster to reach the NSF required 180F rinse temp at this voltage and it would be grossly inefficent at a much higher operating cost per rack. The machine could do around 8 racks per hour instead of it's NSF rated 17 with proper sanitization as specified by NSF code. If you want to use this DW at home run a 240/60/1 30A circuit to it for proper operation.
That said it is one of the best undercounter warewashers ever made. You will be floored by it;s wash action and durability.
WK78
The rest of the dishwasher runs on 120/60/1. As John said it would take 4x longer for the booster to reach the NSF required 180F rinse temp at this voltage and it would be grossly inefficent at a much higher operating cost per rack. The machine could do around 8 racks per hour instead of it's NSF rated 17 with proper sanitization as specified by NSF code. If you want to use this DW at home run a 240/60/1 30A circuit to it for proper operation.
That said it is one of the best undercounter warewashers ever made. You will be floored by it;s wash action and durability.
WK78
Hobart Commerical DW
Hi Nick thanks for the additional information about this DW, yes and I didn't even talk about the DW much.
One clarification however is that it would cost no more to run this machine on 120 volts than 240 volts. If it were less expensive to run heating elements on 240V you would have seen a shift to 240Vs long ago and when you think of all the things that are being to save electricity these days, simple solutions like this would have been done long ago.
Hi Nick thanks for the additional information about this DW, yes and I didn't even talk about the DW much.
One clarification however is that it would cost no more to run this machine on 120 volts than 240 volts. If it were less expensive to run heating elements on 240V you would have seen a shift to 240Vs long ago and when you think of all the things that are being to save electricity these days, simple solutions like this would have been done long ago.
xpanam
Well-known member
Volt differance
How dose an appliance convert the volt differance like 110 for the timer and 220 to the heater?
thanks
Rob
How dose an appliance convert the volt differance like 110 for the timer and 220 to the heater?
thanks
Rob
stevet
Well-known member
It's all in the wiring!
The WM5H series machines ran on a 120/240 Volt setup. This required a 4 wire connection which was 2 120v hot legs, a Neutral and a ground. Controls and pump worked on 120v and the 240 was for the heater(s).
Many commercial machines are wired like that with a lower voltage for your control circuits which in turn would control the higher voltage components. Many large commercial dishwashers are connected to 440/480V but have 24 or 120 volt pilot circuits with some older units using 220v pilot circuits too. All depends on when they were made.
The pic below is my best friend's FFM dishwasher installed in his kitchen on Long Island. The extra switches on the side of the control area are to extend the wash time and to switch between the house supply of water or to use the booster heater.
The WM5H series machines ran on a 120/240 Volt setup. This required a 4 wire connection which was 2 120v hot legs, a Neutral and a ground. Controls and pump worked on 120v and the 240 was for the heater(s).
Many commercial machines are wired like that with a lower voltage for your control circuits which in turn would control the higher voltage components. Many large commercial dishwashers are connected to 440/480V but have 24 or 120 volt pilot circuits with some older units using 220v pilot circuits too. All depends on when they were made.
The pic below is my best friend's FFM dishwasher installed in his kitchen on Long Island. The extra switches on the side of the control area are to extend the wash time and to switch between the house supply of water or to use the booster heater.
stevet
Well-known member
WHO may be on first, but WATTS is WATTS!
Nick, John is 120% correct on how much it costs to run any electrical device. Voltage means nothing in terms of cost to run... We all pay our electreic bills basked on (kilo) WATT hours. Electric meters are WATT hour meters so it is all based on total WATTage of the appliance or device. Voltage has nothing to do with the actual charge or expense to use the device.
So a 100 watt bulb using 120 volts will still cost the same from your utility as it would be if it was a 100 watt bulb designed to run on 220v. The only difference would be the amperage draw on each leg of the circuit.Oversimplified, you could almost say 50 watts per leg on 220 which your electric meter will still convert to a total of 100 watts on the little meter dial!
Nick, John is 120% correct on how much it costs to run any electrical device. Voltage means nothing in terms of cost to run... We all pay our electreic bills basked on (kilo) WATT hours. Electric meters are WATT hour meters so it is all based on total WATTage of the appliance or device. Voltage has nothing to do with the actual charge or expense to use the device.
So a 100 watt bulb using 120 volts will still cost the same from your utility as it would be if it was a 100 watt bulb designed to run on 220v. The only difference would be the amperage draw on each leg of the circuit.Oversimplified, you could almost say 50 watts per leg on 220 which your electric meter will still convert to a total of 100 watts on the little meter dial!
Cycle time
Questions for Stevet, or anyone else....
1. What is the cycle time (start to finish) for this machine?
2. How much does the extra switch on the controls extend the wash time?
3. As this is a "commercial dishwasher" is it just a 5 minute wash time as John L hinted at above?
4. Does the cycle consist of a wash and a rinse or...?
5. Does it have a seperate "rinse water tank" as I believe the really large machines have, or does it rely on heating the water uber quickly?
Thanks!
Kevin
Questions for Stevet, or anyone else....
1. What is the cycle time (start to finish) for this machine?
2. How much does the extra switch on the controls extend the wash time?
3. As this is a "commercial dishwasher" is it just a 5 minute wash time as John L hinted at above?
4. Does the cycle consist of a wash and a rinse or...?
5. Does it have a seperate "rinse water tank" as I believe the really large machines have, or does it rely on heating the water uber quickly?
Thanks!
Kevin
stevet
Well-known member
to answer your questions...
The final version of the ffm series was 17 racks per hour which comes to approx 3.5 minutes per cycyle. Now nobady was that fast as to be able to load and unload it but if you had the racks of dishes ready to go,you might be able to come close to that.
On my friend's machine, the one switch interrupts the timer motor so you can make the cycle as long as you want once it fills to wash. The other selects either 180 degree booster heater water from the 6 gallon booster or water direct from the house supply.
The cycle consisted of a full fill and wash, a drain, a short fill and purge, a drain and then a full rinse and that water got saved for the next wash. Machines with sump heaters would keep the water hot for the next wash.If they lacked the heaters, then the water could cool off.
The high temp "H" machines had the 6 gallon booster on the right side of the frame under the tank which supplied the 180 degree final rinse.
Larger machines dont usually have a heated tank for the rinse so much as they depend on an separate final rinse booster powered by gas, electric or steam .
Did I get to them all?
The final version of the ffm series was 17 racks per hour which comes to approx 3.5 minutes per cycyle. Now nobady was that fast as to be able to load and unload it but if you had the racks of dishes ready to go,you might be able to come close to that.
On my friend's machine, the one switch interrupts the timer motor so you can make the cycle as long as you want once it fills to wash. The other selects either 180 degree booster heater water from the 6 gallon booster or water direct from the house supply.
The cycle consisted of a full fill and wash, a drain, a short fill and purge, a drain and then a full rinse and that water got saved for the next wash. Machines with sump heaters would keep the water hot for the next wash.If they lacked the heaters, then the water could cool off.
The high temp "H" machines had the 6 gallon booster on the right side of the frame under the tank which supplied the 180 degree final rinse.
Larger machines dont usually have a heated tank for the rinse so much as they depend on an separate final rinse booster powered by gas, electric or steam .
Did I get to them all?
