Hobart WM-1D dishwasher

[dustin92]

You could TRY regular Cascade gel, it has chlorine bleach in it so should work pretty much the same as the Commercial Cascade powder. I know the hot water and high pressure does most of the cleaning. For a while, the liquid detergent despenser on the dishwasher at our church had stopped working and we just poured a bit of bleach in at the start of each cycle- It did a fine job of cleaning and the bleach was just to kill off any nasties, although the 185°f final rinse probably took care of that

 

[mikeCL]

Thanks to Steve for sending me replacement drain pump bolts and a new temp/pressure gauge! I will start putting this stuff in today.

 

[mikeCL]

So working with the motor now and it's NICE that the parts bag was included in the price of the motor.. and it was un-opened! but what I noticed is when I was banging the old motor apart to get the old pump housing off the shims must of flew off someplace in the storage room where I was working.. Now to get this right the shim is what keeps enough pressure on the ring? the parts bag came with a lot of stuff so I just wanted to know what I should be looking for and what should be at what thickness level.

And thanks again Steve for the screws.. that was my biggest stumbing block, they were OOS on the Hobart parts site and trying to find some with the excact thread pitch and lenth and head was a bit of hassle. I did make sure to put anti-seize on them however so it wont happen again.

 

[stevet]

SHIMS....

Mike

I will send you the shimming instructions when I get home. They are actually different diameters so you have to use the correct ones in the correct places. The instructions will also give you the dimensions for the correct working ht of the wash impeller as well. remember, I said you could do it on your ktichen table with a set of feeler gauges so sit tight and we will get this set up for you.

 

[mikeCL]

Ok I have plenty of feeler gauges so I will wait for the instructions. Wished I remembered to bring my calapers today.. I assume the way the service manual lists the numbers is the order they should go in?[this post was last edited: 5/21/2014-15:51]

 

[mikeCL]

Well since I'm home now I'm just going to use my calipers, if I run into any issues I will let you know.

 

[mikeCL]

Seems to be right

it's stacked in this order from lower to the top

.005"
.015"
.030"
.048"

I got the email from Steve looks like I will need to screw the wash impeller down in order to make sure it's correct.[this post was last edited: 5/21/2014-22:26]

 

[cuffs054]

Can y'all help me the the concept of using shims? I realize they are "spacers" of a sort but why not mill the pieces to fit without them?

 

[mikeCL]

Correct me if I'm wrong but from what I searched around here it's to deal with the pump pressure and seal when the wash arm is on.

Now as to why and not just mill the parts that's a good question.

 

[mikeCL]

Oh boy did I have it all wrong lol.. Steve had to help me with this one turns out the really biggest shimming was going to be for the wash impeller and the feeler gauge really helps on this, so as in the service manual he sent me with a feeler laying across the body and the wash impeller .025" should touch the impeller and .015" should clear it without touching so finally I got it like that by using a single .030" shim for the wash impeller.

Also those marks on the impeller is that machining marks or wear?

 

[mikeCL]

Today was pretty slow, between helping a friend move stuff on a moving truck and getting the shims right so the clerance is right the motor is finally mounted in the DW now, so I just came back from Home Depot to get some clear plastic sheeting and some tape.

So hopfully we will not leak any water and the pump pressure will be good.

Having said that I STILL forgot those screw clamps.. I gotta go back to the store anyways after work in the morning.. I guess that's the good things by working the graveyard shift the stores are not that busy in the morning.

So I have the DW in a state to put water in it so I hope I can post back with some good news!

 

[stevet]

not machne marks

Mike, the impellers were molded and smooth. Somthing must have gotten in there and scraped it up. Not to worry. You should have plenty of pressure when it gets put back together.

 

[mikeCL]

Holy cow I underestimated the hurricane in a box I had a hard time keeping the tape down and sealed.. I ran it free standing so water was also shooting out of the overflow tube

It sounds so sweet washing, i filled the DW with 140F water I did let it sit, I did not notice any leaks, water from the splashing seems to be dripping near the motor but I will doubble check on that.

Well that's it for today another Hobart saved! Now I do need to call Hobart to see if I can get a ETA on those valves or order or whatever, should be $120 for the two of them.

Now I must clean up my mess of water on the floor.




Nice those valves are in stock now! Well wait a sec.. it will let me add one but not two of them, it will say Limited Stock Available.

That's a little odd.[this post was last edited: 5/22/2014-23:34]

 

[mikeCL]

Might have to complete this near the end of this month Also for the drain I think this is what I'm going to do.. keep the orginal from the drain solenoid to the old hose then put a hose barb to the larger drain hose to fit on the DW drain

 

[stevet]

You're back!

I was wondering what happened to you! I figured that you got it all back together and was showing it off to everyone who came into the kitchen!

 

[mikeCL]

Hah not yet Steve it's still sitting in my office

 

[mikeCL]

Steve do you happen to have the part number for those new valves again? I seem to have misplaced the email which is odd because I don't remember deleting any of it. I've gotta get this dishwasher out of my office space LOL

 

[mikeCL]

The valves came in so i'm a bit confused on how the stock setup is so I'm looking at adding about 5 inches of new copper?

 

[stevet]

Improvise!

Mike, IIRC, the original valves sat in a single bracket next to each other. See if the new ones will fit the bracket even if they are in there loosely. You will probably have to come up with a way to make them stay in line and not flop around.

Try to use as much of the original plumbing that went from the outlets of the valves to the manifold that holds the bulb for the temp gauge. That should be a solid start and then add some new copper tubing and compression fittings to the inlet sides and you should be okay.

Remember that the wire from the timer marked "fill 1" gets connected to the building supply and the wire marked "fill 2" gets connected to the line from the Hatco booster.

 

[mikeCL]

But I'm still having to get rid of the old Wye strainers I think they are 3/4" but they sit back a ways from where the old asco valves used to be.

Hopfully it wont be too much to get the old stuff off