Hoover 155 (A3072) Dryer Overhaul Pt 1

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crouzet951

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Jul 12, 2013
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Hi again folks

I had intended just a quick vacuum and general tidy up for the 155, but it ended up being more like an overhaul. The dryer was last overhauled in 1991 when the machine first came into my possession, and it hasn't had a great deal of use since then. Perhaps once a month as an average. The main things replaced then were the motor windings, the timer, and the front drum bearings. This was mentioned in the attached link.

During this current overhaul, some parts were replaced where the existing ones would have been OK, but I really wanted a machine that would last another 20 years (or longer).

There were just a couple of minor disasters during the process, but it all worked out in the end.

Just a couple of requests – does anyone have any Australian service literature for any of the 3022, 3022A, 155, and 165 UK dryers sold here.

Secondly, would any UK members have service literature for similar UK market dryers to mine – the 3022, 3022A, D6008, D6E06, and D6042 , with the latter two probably being most similar. Just a wiring diagram would be wonderful.

I don’t really need any of this, but it would just be nice to add to my current service information. Thanks again to all.

Without further ado, here begins the journey.

Regards
John

The 155 safely brought up from the garage.


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Dust and fluff everywhere - on everything inside the cabinet.

It is quite ingenious how the same basic cabinets were used for the washers and the dryers.

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I mainly used to dry my maroon sheets, hence the colour of the fluff.

The rust looking stuff on the lower back panel is more fish-oil based paint that I seemed to have used on everything. Hehe.

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Before dismantling one of these machines, I recommend marking the location of the four fan housing brackets with a felt pen.

The fan housing, as well as supporting the rear of the drum, also braces the cabinet, keeping it square. It is best if the housing is replaced in the same locations.

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It is best to lay the machine of its front, suitably cushioned and protected of course, before lifting off the fan housing and removing the drum. The drum is a larger diameter than any of the openings in the cabinet, so the sides of the cabinet have to be spread slightly to allow it to be removed.

The first minor disaster occurred before laying the machine down, which will be described soon.

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The fan housing lifted off. The air seal around the diameter of the fan opening is quite thick felt. This is a suction fan, which draws air into the cabinet through vents on the back panel, sucks it through the heating elements, through the drum (and clothing), and expels it out the back vent.

The metal bridge across the fan has the rear drum support post in the middle.

Keep this housing away from children and animals as it is a nightmare of razor sharp edges. They must have worn riggers' glove when assembling these at Merthyr. Hehe.

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The rear of the drum. The rear support bearing is a bronze bush.

You can make out the lint filter through the holes.

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This is the dual-temperature thermostat. It reacts to the temperature of the air exiting through the rear duct.

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This is the heating element assembly. Air is drawn into the front of the drum, through the elements, for the whole circumference of the element assembly.

The small disaster can be seen at the 10.30 position.

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First small disaster.

It is imperative that, unless you have a helper, the dryer should be laid on its forward side before releasing the fan housing. Forgetting my past experience, I unscrewed the fan housing with the machine upright. The moment this was released, the front of the drum fell off its bearings and dropped down, breaking the element isolator. These appear to be ceramic and are very brittle.

'Twas my own stupid fault.

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The two white circular (nylon?) items are the front drum bearings. There is a flange at the front of the drum, and it simply rests on theses it rotates. I remember being quite shocked at the crudity of the setup, but it works beautifully.

These bearings were installed at the last overhaul and are hardly worn.

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Note the scorch marks, probably from when the initial motor windings burnt out and the fan stopped. This caused fluff buildup around the element isolators to smoulder when the elements went red hot, due to no air flow. The elements are original, so the thermal cutout must have saved them.

It's really quite frightening how there could easily have been a fire.

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Amazing

This is the end of the motor where cooling air is drawn in. It's very easy to see why previously the windings burnt out due to no air flow.

To the right is the hinged pressure roller that keeps the drum belt tight. The spring that normally pulls the roller to the left of this image has been removed.

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The motor is an induction type of very simple construction. Being an induction motor, it has no brushes.

The cooling fan for the motor can be seen, together with the small pulley that drives the drum fan.

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This was the sight when one of the end plates was removed. Even the holes through the rotor were blocked.

The motor was well on its way to burning out the windings again.

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As mentioned earlier, the motor is of very simple construction. Remove the pulleys, the fan, and a few screws, and it breaks down into four major sub-assemblies. They are the two end plates with bearings, the windings, and the rotor.

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The rotor bearings are self-aligning sintered bronze bushes. There is virtually no wear to either the bushes, or the rotor shaft surfaces.

These motors are very lightly loaded compared to washer motors.

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