Hoover Spinarinse 3004A
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keymatic3203
Well-known member
drilling out screws
hi Slimstar
I have had some experience of drilling out screws in conjuction with using a screw extractor, though this was on some much larger screws.
I got the screw extractors from screwfix, they are basically an opposite thread screw, you drill a hole in the centre of the screw to be removed, screw in the extractor which screws in anticlockwise and when its tight you start unscrewing the screw your trying to remove. Sounds simple in theory, this method may be worth trying if you can get a small enough screw extractor, and are confident to drill a very small diameter hole in the screw.
Another suggestion if the above is a bit delicate, would be to carfully drill the heads off the screws, but the risks are the drill slipping off centre and damaging the surrounding casting or leaving you with nothing to grip the screws and being unable to get the remaining screws out of the valve body.
One other thought if you have any screwhead left would be to hold a soldering iron in the screwhead, to warm the screw and surrounding aluminium, you may find the different metal expand at different rate and may help.
Well these are only suggestions and I certainly can't promise them to work, but I hope they do. I don't have any complete ocv valves, but have a few of the internal parts and some of the gaskets that seal the valve body and the chrome top part to the tub. i've also got a few pump components if your stuck there.
By the way Steve, nice spinarinse there, if it's not been said earlier the white top surround to the spin can didn't come in until the later model, the one witht the black plastic lid, the one before Craigs above, prior to that they were the same aluminium as the main part of the spin can.
All the best both with these restorations
Mathew
hi Slimstar
I have had some experience of drilling out screws in conjuction with using a screw extractor, though this was on some much larger screws.
I got the screw extractors from screwfix, they are basically an opposite thread screw, you drill a hole in the centre of the screw to be removed, screw in the extractor which screws in anticlockwise and when its tight you start unscrewing the screw your trying to remove. Sounds simple in theory, this method may be worth trying if you can get a small enough screw extractor, and are confident to drill a very small diameter hole in the screw.
Another suggestion if the above is a bit delicate, would be to carfully drill the heads off the screws, but the risks are the drill slipping off centre and damaging the surrounding casting or leaving you with nothing to grip the screws and being unable to get the remaining screws out of the valve body.
One other thought if you have any screwhead left would be to hold a soldering iron in the screwhead, to warm the screw and surrounding aluminium, you may find the different metal expand at different rate and may help.
Well these are only suggestions and I certainly can't promise them to work, but I hope they do. I don't have any complete ocv valves, but have a few of the internal parts and some of the gaskets that seal the valve body and the chrome top part to the tub. i've also got a few pump components if your stuck there.
By the way Steve, nice spinarinse there, if it's not been said earlier the white top surround to the spin can didn't come in until the later model, the one witht the black plastic lid, the one before Craigs above, prior to that they were the same aluminium as the main part of the spin can.
All the best both with these restorations
Mathew
lancethecook
Well-known member
Just to let you know
The spinarinse is doing just fine thanks although I don't use it as often as I should .
Tell Nick it went to a good home and I did buy and read his book.
Cheers
Lance
The spinarinse is doing just fine thanks although I don't use it as often as I should .
Tell Nick it went to a good home and I did buy and read his book.
Cheers
Lance
sesteve
Well-known member
Was it really that long ago?
Crikes how time flies. Well seeing as I'd managed to get the Colston fixed I took the Spinarinse out of the shed and got that back on its feet too. It had been home to mice before I'd picked it up and it turned out that there was a nibbled wire that I'd missed last time. All working fantastic and despite being cracked, the rubber hose is holding up well. It's a bit stiff to swivel the outlet but other than that it works great with a very quick stop on the brake.
I've also taken a video of this getting the extra water out of the clothes that were washed in the Colston. Will upload soon too. That's two working Spinarinses and the Colston. Just a shed full of other stuff to go lol
Heres a few pics of the repair 1st one is chassis out
Crikes how time flies. Well seeing as I'd managed to get the Colston fixed I took the Spinarinse out of the shed and got that back on its feet too. It had been home to mice before I'd picked it up and it turned out that there was a nibbled wire that I'd missed last time. All working fantastic and despite being cracked, the rubber hose is holding up well. It's a bit stiff to swivel the outlet but other than that it works great with a very quick stop on the brake.
I've also taken a video of this getting the extra water out of the clothes that were washed in the Colston. Will upload soon too. That's two working Spinarinses and the Colston. Just a shed full of other stuff to go lol
Heres a few pics of the repair 1st one is chassis out
sesteve
Well-known member
Mouse damage
sesteve
Well-known member
And more
sesteve
Well-known member
Insulating tape and connector block repair. I'll make it more permanent one day......
sesteve
Well-known member
ANC here it is next to its younger cousin which needed a new hose and some lubrication. See how the motor is now the same as the Hoovermatic spin motor. Managed to get an original rubber hose for it - in fact they sent me 2!
Special Thanks to Chestermike for the service info. Would have struggled without this.
S
Special Thanks to Chestermike for the service info. Would have struggled without this.
S
Hoover single tub emptying
Hi guys, this is a really interesting thread. I have memories of neighbours having the single tub and spinner side by side. My mum had a hot point twin tub with the same solid arm that pumped from the spinner in to the sink.
How does the single tub empty? I know older models had a gravity drain pipe. In the later models there is that rubber hose along the back of the tub connected at both ends. I assume that is for emptying but how does it work? Is there a continuous water pump running whilst the wash plate in the side of the tub spins?
Cheers
Simon
Hi guys, this is a really interesting thread. I have memories of neighbours having the single tub and spinner side by side. My mum had a hot point twin tub with the same solid arm that pumped from the spinner in to the sink.
How does the single tub empty? I know older models had a gravity drain pipe. In the later models there is that rubber hose along the back of the tub connected at both ends. I assume that is for emptying but how does it work? Is there a continuous water pump running whilst the wash plate in the side of the tub spins?
Cheers
Simon
Spinarinse & single tub
Great job there Steve, you can pop round and do mine now LOLOLOL
@ Spinspeed
You got it right, the pump runs constantly while the motor is running, and you just "un-clip" one end to release the water - the hill hose was tapered so it could be inserted in the tube
Al
Great job there Steve, you can pop round and do mine now LOLOLOL
@ Spinspeed
You got it right, the pump runs constantly while the motor is running, and you just "un-clip" one end to release the water - the hill hose was tapered so it could be inserted in the tube
Al
Like so
..
..
Spinarinse Instructions 1
While i am at it
While i am at it
Spinarinse Instructions 2
Thanks for the explanation Al. I was wondering if the pump runs all the time the motor is running, does the water recirculate back in to the tub during washing? I wouldn't think that when the empty pipe is attached at both ends it would be like a dead end. Surly that would not be good for the pump. However, if it did circulate you could just poke the thin end of the fill hose in to the port where the water recirculates back in to the tub. I think the Servce TT worked like that.
Happy New Year to one and all
Simon
Happy New Year to one and all
Simon
sesteve
Well-known member
Great brochures Al - thanks for posting and yes happy to help get the pump up and running. The impeller on mine was loose on the shaft so it could be the same issue with yours. I was hoping to get the videos on line but having a few IT issues at the mo with the video. Hopefully should have it sorted at the weekend.
Does anyone know what the speed of these are? I would imagine the newer models would have been the same as the twin tubs as they had the same numbers but not sure about these models.
Hi Simon. The pump on the single tub does run constantly and against a dead end. Not sure why they didn't either fit a lever to disengage the pump or fit a connection back to the tub but there you go. You have to make sure the lid is on when you go to empty as the impeller can really throw the water around and you get an indoor shower!
S
Does anyone know what the speed of these are? I would imagine the newer models would have been the same as the twin tubs as they had the same numbers but not sure about these models.
Hi Simon. The pump on the single tub does run constantly and against a dead end. Not sure why they didn't either fit a lever to disengage the pump or fit a connection back to the tub but there you go. You have to make sure the lid is on when you go to empty as the impeller can really throw the water around and you get an indoor shower!
S
triumphdolomite
Well-known member
Spin Speeds
Steve
I seem to recall reading somewhere that the 3019 Spinarinse and the 3021 Spin Dryer were only 1800rpm against 2300 of the twinnys. I've always assumed that the spin speeds remained the same throughout the production run. I'd be interested if anyone can confirm this or did I dream it?
Ian.
Steve
I seem to recall reading somewhere that the 3019 Spinarinse and the 3021 Spin Dryer were only 1800rpm against 2300 of the twinnys. I've always assumed that the spin speeds remained the same throughout the production run. I'd be interested if anyone can confirm this or did I dream it?
Ian.
sesteve
Well-known member
Video
Hi Ian
You might be right as it does sound slower. The D3010 I have is rated at 240W and the 3004A is rated at 300W so you would think it might spin faster but perhaps motor technology was less efficient in those days. Be interested to know if anyone has any old literature that lists the speed
anyway, while I'm on a roll here is a link to a short video of it in action spinning the load that has just come out of the Colston.
S
Hi Ian
You might be right as it does sound slower. The D3010 I have is rated at 240W and the 3004A is rated at 300W so you would think it might spin faster but perhaps motor technology was less efficient in those days. Be interested to know if anyone has any old literature that lists the speed
anyway, while I'm on a roll here is a link to a short video of it in action spinning the load that has just come out of the Colston.
S
Spin Speeds
All looking good there Steve, which model was easier to work on the early spinner or later squarer models?
Spin Speeds from Hoover doctrine..
Spinners
3004 = 2150 / 2400
3007 = 1950
3012 = 1800
3019 = 2100
TwinTubs
3174 = 1700 / 2100
3301 = 1800 / 2100
3314 = 2300
variations depending on voltage
All looking good there Steve, which model was easier to work on the early spinner or later squarer models?
Spin Speeds from Hoover doctrine..
Spinners
3004 = 2150 / 2400
3007 = 1950
3012 = 1800
3019 = 2100
TwinTubs
3174 = 1700 / 2100
3301 = 1800 / 2100
3314 = 2300
variations depending on voltage
sesteve
Well-known member
Thanks Mike
Funny how the speeds slowed down a bit with the newer models. Did they standardise on the twinnies and spin dryers after the 3314L? No match for the hotpoints!
The square machine was easier as the pin holding the brake lever on the 3004a is a real sod to get at and remove and reinsert! Also I was more familiar with the motor on the newer one as it's the same as the Twinnies I have.
S
Funny how the speeds slowed down a bit with the newer models. Did they standardise on the twinnies and spin dryers after the 3314L? No match for the hotpoints!
The square machine was easier as the pin holding the brake lever on the 3004a is a real sod to get at and remove and reinsert! Also I was more familiar with the motor on the newer one as it's the same as the Twinnies I have.
S
