How do I clean gas lines?

[classiccaprice]

Hi everyone,

As some of you may recall, I've got a 36in ~1958 Kenmore Gas range in the garage. It's the same model Edith Bunker had in her kitchen during the majority of the All in the Family run. It's great for doing cooking/baking out there this time of year and keeping the house nice and cool. However, I have a couple of problems.

The smaller of the two is that the pilot lights for the burners aren't releasing gas, so I can't keep the pilot's lit for the burners. Not a huge deal I can light it with a stick lighter. They will stay lit as long as the gas is on after that point, so it's jot a huge deal, but something I'd like to fix.

The bigger of the two is that the oven pilot won't stay lit. As you may know, there is a button that has to be pushed before a match or stick lighter is used to light the oven. However, recently the oven will only stay lit for two or three minutes and then it will go out. I think that the core problem to both is clogged gas lines. I'm a little leary taking apart a gas stove, but I figure it needs to be done.

Please help.

 

[classiccaprice]

My Kenmore. I wish I had the griddle pan.

 

[classiccaprice]

The Bunker's Kenmore

G-L-O-R-I-A... I'm gonna shout it all night. I'm gonna shout it everyday.

 

[classiccaprice]

Oh, I forgot the most minor problem of all. How do I get the clock to work?

 

[norgeway]

If Im not mistaken...

Those Roper built Kenmores of that era had the VERY small micro pilots, I have a NIB two burner cooktop from 1958, that does, If I were you ,I would VERY CAREFULLY....disconnect the pilot line at the manifold, if it has a screw connection, if it does not, take the pilot orifice off and just clean it well, wash it in some hot soapy water, rinse well and blow dry with an air hose if available, if you can disconnect the line at the manifold, blow the whole thing out after removing the pilot orifice, then proceed as above with cleaning the orifice and re assemble, also there should be a pilot adjustment where it screws into the manifold, you can raise or lower the flame by cleaning it, also on the gas valve for the oven there is a pilot adjustment...hope this helps.

 

[arbilab]

I've gotten both the flame and the igniter orifices to work again with a large-gauge sewing needle or small gauge drill bit. On the oven, if the flame is adequate but the button keeps popping, the thermocouple is probably bad. If the flame is inadequate, that orifice is probably narrowed too.

 

[classiccaprice]

Well for the stove top pilots, it was adjusted down (always the simple things). However, I now see why. On one side the two burners keep lighting on the side, where the pilot "tubes" connect to the burner. One of the tubes is close to rusted out (so I can understand that one) but not on the other. Maybe it's best I just stay with my stick lighter, for now. Unless someone knows what the problem is there.

On the oven, I think it's the thermocouple. I have a good flame, it just won't stay on. Any suggestions for a replacement? How do I replace it, without blowing up?

 

[volvoguy87]

Oven.

Yup, it might be a Thermocouple. Should be pretty simple and cheap.

 

[classiccaprice]

So here's what I'm looking at. So, can someone verify what I am removing on both ends and so I can be sure to get the correct thermocouple?

 

[classiccaprice]

the other end

 

[arbilab]

Hard to orient in 2 dimensions but yes thermocouple is the wand sticking into the flame with a tube going back to the button valve.

 

[classiccaprice]

Thanks, all fixed!

 

[davey7]

Is the educated opinion here that this could be the same problem I have with a non-lighting oven pilot on my O&M? I can't get the pilot lit - should I disconnect the line at the manifold and blow it out? I'm jonsing for baked goods this year!