How to properly add an ice maker connection

[Cybrvanr]

The commonly held way to install an ice maker is to use a saddle valve that pierces the copper pipe, and then allows the water to flow through it. NO, NO, NO! These are BAAD!!!

There are several problems with these. First off, the hole that the piercing valve makes in the pipe usually doesn't allow enough water flow to do a good job. Second, after a hole is pierced in the valve, it weakens the pipe, increasing the possibility of failure later on. Third, the valve rarely ever seals back in the hole properly if you need to turn the water off for some reason. ...the list goes on and on why these are bad!

 

[Cybrvanr]

Where my dishwasher now sits used to be a washing machine hookup. (Where my Danby used to sit) Therefore, I have a hot, cold and drain connection. The hot and drain went to the dishwasher, but the cold line was unused. Perfect for the icemaker. Only problem was it was about 2 feet out of the way.

 

[Cybrvanr]

So, I soldered together some 1/2 inch copper pipe to the cold water pipe, bored a hole in the back of the cabinet, and extended it through the back side to where the fridge sits.

 

[Cybrvanr]

At the other end, I installed a ball valve with a 1/4 inch compression fitting on it that will go to the fridge's line.

 

[Cybrvanr]

I found this nice flexible braided steel line at Home Depot. I think this is better than copper tubing because it allows one to move the fridge out easily to clean behind it without having to worry about crimping or damaging the copper tube. It was actually about the same price too. This hose also has a flow preventer on it too. If for some reason the hose were to fail, the pressure difference will shut a check valve and keep it from flooding your house. I find it ironic however that the kit this hose came with also had one of the dreaded saddle valves in it. The saddle valve is before the check valve, so if it failed (which they have been known to do!), it would not give you any protection!

Shown in the picture here, I'm flushing out the line prior to attaching it to the fridge. This washes out any dirt and debris in the lines, along with soldering flux, etc. I should also make a point here that when soldering pipe, always use lead-free solder on potable water connections!!! (hey, I don't need any more autism than I already got!)

 

[Cybrvanr]

I also decided to get a water filter. Now, I opted not to get the water filter that comes built-into the fridge because you are confined to that type of filter, which could be discontinued. Not to mention that fridge-based filters are an expensive option from the factory with marginal performance, and the replacement filters tend to be a little pricey too.

This $29.95 filter is an activated charcol filter that has better spec's than the more expensive one that could be added to the fridge.

It's good to flush the lines BEFORE attaching the filter because you don't want any of your costruction debris to clog the filter. After flushing, attach your filter, and flush it too. Then, once everything is attached to your fridge, discard the first batch of ice that was made in a 24 hour period.

This filter will be attached to the back of the fridge, and then a short piece of copper tubing will go between the filter, and the intake valve. I didn't worry about a braided hose in that location because there's not much movement occurring between the filter & the valve.

Using this method, your fridge will have much better water flow, and you will have peace of mind that a valve won't come loose in the middle of the night or while you are at work flooding your house!

 

[panthera]

great!

Thanks a lot for an interesting little set of pictures. I have used saddle valves since the 60's with no problems, but never the self-piercing ones. None have leaked so far.
Your choice of filter was brilliant. The ones for refrigerators are way too expensive and not nearly as good.
What is the mix of non-lead soldier you used? I've been epoxying and silver brazing connections over the last couple of decades, never heard of a food-safe low-temperature soldier.

 

[rinso]

Steven is right! Saddle valves are evil, especially for ice makers and refrigerators with water dispensers.

When we moved into our current house, it had a humidifier built into the furnace. A saddle valve was used to tap into the cold water, and quickly failed due to clogging with calcium and lime. Of course, then the whole thing started to leak and we had to replace it with a proper tee.

 

[exploder3211]

Great Idea! Of a self piercing saddle valve was used in my house....

 

[tolivac]

Self peircing saddle valves were used in three older transmitters here to bleed out the air bubbles in the cooling system when you replace a tube-the tube water jacket(would normally be filled with water)contains air before it is installed-the valves allow you to bleed off the air after the tube is installed and the pumps are running.so far no problems with these-the older valves were breaking off.They have been in use for about 5 years now-best thing we did for these transmitters.We used 3 valves per transmitter-three diffrent water cooling loops per unit.

 

[pturo]

Pretty much sounds, however, that saddle valves suck!