How to remove severe yellow stains from white pillowcases?

[dustin92]

So, I have a miracle to perform if possible... My Girlfriend has 2 or 3 sets of white (printed, but mainly white) sheets that are in good condition, but the pillowcases have become seriously yellow over time (she does sweat in her sleep). She has used hot water and bleach with no success. I'm thinking an overnight soak in something (not sure what to use). I've had luck removing body oil/odor from my sheets with a concoction of hot water, baking soda, and Awesome (dollar store degreaser), but I'm not sure if it will remove stains, my sheets are colored and weren't stained, just had a buildup of oil (my skin is extremely oily) and smelled funky. We both shower daily and change sheets regularly (I change mine every week, she changes hers every 2, but sleeps fully clothed) so it isn't a lack of personal hygiene, just buildup not being completely removed in the wash. We have a Magic Chef portable washer, so can soak and wash as much as necessary. Hot water is very hot and plentiful. If these sheets can't be cleaned they will likely be thrown out, we just found them while cleaning out a closet. Any advice is greatly appreciated!

 

[launderess]

Sad but normal occurance for pillow slips

Yellowing is also seen on center of bed sheets and shirt collars.

This is caused by a reaction (oxidation) of skin oils/sweat which were not promptly and totally removed during laundering. Main culprit is cholesterol which is secreted by the sebaceous glands to keep the skin soft. If perspiration is not totally removed from textiles, eventually it will go rancid and leave yellow marks.

Hence the old advice about changing *and* laundering bed linen often. Depending upon level of soiling it may be necessary to either launder pillow slips separately using a stronger detergent and adding an emulsifier, or just do the whole linen wash with same formula.

As to reversing the yellowing; it may not be totally possible. Since what has occurred is more of a chemical reaction (skin oils going rancid), rather than a "stain", you may not be able to restore things to perfect whiteness.

 

[stan]

Agree with Laundress

You may not be able to correct
You might try taking the pillow slips to you local dry cleaner and ask that they be run through,
(dry clean only) the solvent may pull out the oil that wet cleaning can't. If successful.. When you get them back, wash as you normally would before sleeping on them.
HTH

 

[askolover]

I use this with oxy and super hot wash (190F).  Works well.  A little bluing in the final rinse helps too.

 

[helicaldrive]

Ammonia

Use very hot water, clear ammonia and Persil or Tide. Soak. Completely saturate the body oil stain with detergent and set it aside for half an hour before putting in the soaking bucket. Wash before the water gets cold.

 

[rolls_rapide]

Just use a decent powder...

Perhaps try soaking them overnight in a bucket of WARM water with biological washing powder. (Hot water will deactivate the enzymes and possibly set stains). Then, wash again with powder, in the machine. Ideally, you want to start off with cool water and bring the temperature up slowly. But you probably won't be able to do that if your machine doesn't have a heater.

Use a decent powder which contains oxygen bleach, such as 'Tide+ Bleach'. 'Sodium Percarbonate' is the oxygen bleach; 'Nonanoyloxybenzenesulfonate' (NOBS) is the bleaching activator used in the US.

This detergent also contains three enzymes, two of which are important to your problem.

The 'Protease' enzyme works to break down protein-containing body soils and secretions, such as skin cells which are sloughed off by friction of fabrics against the body.

Apparently, the 'Lipase' enzyme has a delayed reaction. When washed with a detergent containing lipase, the enzyme partly converts the grease/oil to soap, even as it dries. (I imagine line drying is best for the enzyme). The next time the garment is washed, the partially converted stain lifts out much more readily.

'Disodium Diaminostilbene Disulfonate' is the brightening agent. It makes fabrics look substantially whiter, by absorbing invisible ultraviolet light and re-transmitting it on a different wavelength; i.e visible.

'Sodium Carbonate' is washing soda, which is a proven degreasing agent.

'Linear Alkylbenzene Sulfonate' and 'Sodium Laureth Sulfate' are the actual detergent surfactants.

INGREDIENTS
Sodium Carbonate
Sodium Sulfate
Sodium Aluminosilicate
Linear Alkylbenzene Sulfonate
Sodium Percarbonate
Sodium Laureth Sulfate
Sodium Polyacrylate
Water
Silicate
Nonanoyloxybenzenesulfonate
Fragrance
Palmitic Acid
Polyethylene Glycol 4000
Disodium Diaminostilbene Disulfonate
Silicone
Protease
Amylase
Lipase
Fd&C Blue #1

 

[helicaldrive]

Forgot to say

Use ammonia every time you wash sheets, and use hot water too. A scant 1/4 cup in an HE front loader.and up to 2 or 3 cups in a full fill top loader. Fantastic stuff. It does not bleach or fade items. Surprisingly, it does not leave behind any odor, harm fabrics or irritate skin.

Make sure it is clear ammonia with no detergent added. Sudsy ammonia will make a mess in a FL.

The gimmick here is that with housecleaning, ammonia dissolves grease and oil like nothing else. Same with body oil in fabrics.

And it’s dirt cheap!

P.S. to keep pillows from getting yellow and smelly, put two or three white fabric zippered pillow protectors on each pillow and the pillow slip over that. Wash all items weekly in hot water.

 

[helicaldrive]

Interesting

Didn’t know TWB has lipase. Very hard to find in detergents. Persil power pearls has it., but only the power pearls.

 

[helicaldrive]

Powder detergents

Numerous people on this site have said powder detergent works better esp with whites. And they are so right. I have always wondered, why is that so?

 

[rolls_rapide]

Powders work better because they have better detergent technologies built in. Powders have sequestering agents, buffering agents, bleaching agents, brightening agents, biological agents (enzymes) along with the 'surface active agents' (surfactants). Ingredients which might react in storage, can be effectively encapsulated within a stable coating. All in all, a superior product.

Frequently, liquids are trade-offs on the stability of the liquid's formulation against how effective it is. Bleaches can't be used because they destabilise and deactivate enzymes. Liquids are good for pre-treating greasy stains, and for quick washes. But for whites, they are a 'no-no'. Don't be fooled either, by "Bleach alternative" slogans on liquids. There's not one iota of bleach near the product - they rely on optical brighteners to try to disguise the fact.

 

[rolls_rapide]

Tide Powders...

Of the four Tide powders available, all of them have oxygen bleach, brightening agents and enzymes.

Tide 'Free & Gentle' has neither fragrance nor product colouring. And a couple of processing aid ingredients seem to be absent too.

Tide 'with Downy' seems to be pretty much similar to 'Original Scent' and '+ Bleach' formulations.

I suspect Tide '+ Bleach' has a slightly higher level of bleaching and brightening agents, compared to 'Original Scent' and 'With Downy' variants.

 

[panthera]

Some good advice here!

One way to avoid buildup of oil/fat based compounds, especially from humans, is to use 1/2 cup of TSP with a load of bedding, together with a good enzyme based detergent. One needn't worry about the water being too warm in most American washers, the stupid dumbing down of machines here guarantees that 'hot' is nothing more than luke-warm for the normal rest of the world.

 

 

 

[lakewebsterkid]

Ammonia

I second this suggestion. You would be surprised by how much residue it will remove. I used it on my bedsheets recently, and they feel like new. I just discussed this on ths.gardenweb. I had an old dark sweatshirt that had cooking oil on it. I washed it in cold with other dark items as usual, and just used a 1/4 cup of ammonia. The oil stain was completely removed. White Brite is another good suggestion, but does not have the oil removing effect of ammonia. Just be sure to not use it with bleach. Supposedly it has a very powerful effect when you mix it with a bit of Oxiclean, and can super whiten.

 

[tomturbomatic]

An aerosol pretreater like Shout in the metal aerosol can could be tried. Spray the fabric, let it sit for 10 to 15 minutes then wash in a good detergent solution with STPP. Bleaching is not the answer. The bond between the oil and the textile has to be broken. If you cannot find Shout, you could try to find a degreaser at the auto supply store. Knight's Spray Nine might work.

 

[panthera]

When dealing with lots oil/fat

STPP works, of course. TSP is the better choice, in my opinion, as it is more base and more readily forms soap, keeping the oil/fat from redepositing.

We'll never resolve the STPP/TSP fan club opinions, though, will we?

 

[rp2813]

Has anyone ever used Rit Whitener & Brightener or know what's in it -- if they still make it?   I think my mom used it for sheer curtains.

 

[rickr]

When I launder bedding, I always wash in hot water, and add quite a bit of ammonia. While I don't think this will remove the yellow stains in theses sheets, it would be useful advice for her next sheet set.

 

[gyrafoam]

OMG

Throw the f@&king things out and buy some new ones,already. How much could it cost?
Wash in hot water with a good detergent. No sense in trying to re-invent the wheel.
Just 'sayin.

 

[dustin92]

I guess some people just throw things out when they get dirty rather than clean them, and give the money tree a shake for new ones. I think I'm going to try an overnight soak in Powdered Tide, Oxi Clean, and some Dawn. Will see what results we get.

 

[brisnat81]

I second the Ammonia suggestion. Every other month I soak all my Synthetic gym wear in Ammonia, Omo and Hotwater overnight. The water usually comes out brown.

I then just wash as usual with detergent.

 

[michaelman2]

Fabric all cotton?

Are these sheets 100% cotton?

 

[dustin92]

Can't really use ammonia, she has cats and ammonia + cats = marking. Definitely don't want that.
I believe they are a cotton/poly blend, some may be 100%, not sure. I'm going over tomorrow, and I want to get them washed and ready to use, they have been in the closet for quite some time and we are cleaning closets out. If they can't be saved they will likely be thrown out, they just look nasty even though they have been washed and are technically clean.

 

[michaelman2]

May be the problem:

Dustin92. I believe therin lies the problem. If there is any polyester fiber in those sheets it will yellow bleaching can make things worse. If you decide to replace the sheets... make sure they are all natural fibers.

 

[panthera]

Cripes!

If they just wanted to throw them out, they wouldn't have asked the world's leading washer site for our opinion.

Honestly, could we just try being a bit nicer? We can save the nasties for Dirty Laundry.

 

[ea56]

You know Dustin, hydorgen peroxide is very inexpensive, why not buy a couple of quarts of medicinal (3%) peroxide and put the sheets in a sink or dishpan and thoroughly saturate the sheets with the peroxide and let them sit for 20 to 30 mins and see if that doesn’t take out the yellow. Then wash them in the hottest water possible with Tide powder with Bleach. This may do the trick. Even if you bought 3 quarts of peroxide I don’t believe it would cost more than $6.00 or so. And you can always use the Tide with Bleach. That’s what I would try. Sweat, or persperation stains are not unlike urine stains and I think peroxide works on urine stains.

And for what it’s worth, Keven I agree with your statement above, well said!
HTH
Eddie

 

[helicaldrive]

ROFLMAO !!!

I always wonder if Gyrafoam knows how funny he is. Like when he said washing machines today have become sewers for laundry. Very funny guy.

Hopefully someone will get another good laugh at my expense here. See, for me it’s all about the challenge. So I’d get them clean first, and then I’d throw them out!

 

[askolover]

I have cats and use ammonia...have never had a marking problem with them.  When a neighborhood cat decides to mark my door outside I clean it with windex to remove the cat's smell...works every time.

 

[dustin92]

I picked up a tub of Oxi Clean and some Borax, will soak them in that and Tide, possibly throw some Dawn in there for good measure. They don't have to be 100% perfect, but at least useable. The pillowcases are literally lemon yellow right now. Will see what happens

 

[launderess]

Before starting sort out the fabric content first.

Polyester has different properties from say cotton. For one the thing is famously hydrophilic (resists water) and loves oil. If you've ever gotten salad oil on say a polyester tablecloth you know how bad things can get.

If pillow slips are already clean I'd start by first giving them a quick pre-wash with perhaps some STPP if you can find it. Purpose here is to strip out detergent residue that can also make things seem dingy looking.

Since or once the pillow slips are (already) clean, what you want is to reverse/bleach out the yellowing. For this there are a few methods.

One calls for dissolving Oxiclean, sodium percarbonate, sodium perborate into a tub (not metal) of water, then adding more warm to hot water to fill. Then immersing the item or items and allow them to soak for several hours/overnight. Every now and then agitate/push down the items.

After about 12 hours or more (oxygen bleach will remain active for some time in solution), lift items or items out and examine. If no change put back into soaking tub and continue. After about 24 hours if there isn't a change, you'll need to make up another batch of soaking solution as all the oxygen bleach power has been spent.

The other method calls for dissolving oxygen bleach in a non metal pot (stainless steel will work, but not aluminum) filled with some water, then add enough water that will cover items/item. Put pot over burner and allow to slowly reach temp of about 180F. Do not fill pot more than 3/4's full and keep an eye on things. As the water reaching hot to boiling items will float up and the oxygen bleach will froth, both can cause a "boil over" mess if not careful.

Boil for one half hour, then turn off and cover. Heat accelerates the bleaching power of all hydrogen peroxide bleaches. So instead of soaking for 12, 24 or whatever long hours, you can cut that time down to a few. OTOH boiling is harsh on textiles especially in an alkaline environment.

Either way when satisfied with results, and or feel things are about as good as they are going to get, remove things from boiling/soaking pot and rinse thoroughly. You can do this in washing machine or by hand, but all the chemicals used in soaking must be washed out.

Or: https://www.wikihow.com/Remove-Sweat-Stains-from-Sheets

 

[rolls_rapide]

And, after all of this sage advice...

... hopefully your whites will be white... right through!