How To Replace The Two Speed Clutch On A G.E. Filter Flo

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thatwasherguy

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Hey everyone, hope you’re all well. I spent the afternoon finishing up replacing the clutch on my 1989 G.E. Filter Flo. I took lots of pictures throughout the process to document here, with the hope that it helps others.
Enjoy,
Thatwasherguy.
 
Well, you gotta start somewhere!

After you remove the hex head screws that hold the rear access panel on, you will need to first remove the two clamps that hold the pump coupler on. There tension is held by 1/4 inch hex head screws.
 

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Now, it’s time to remove the motor, shifter, and clutch.

Unplug the two wiring harnesses going to the assembly. One will be a two wire connector for the shifter, and the other will be a five pin connector going to the motor. Next, loosen the three 7/16 inch nylon lock nuts that hold the motor plate onto the frame of the washer. One is right by the left suspension bracket, one is next to the connector for the shifter, and the other one is buried behind the motor. Remove the belt, and lower the motor to the floor. Next, tip the washer forward, and slide the motor out from under it.
 

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Now that the motor’s out, the real work can begin.

Start by driving out the pin that holds the drive pulley to the shaft extension. I used a punch and a hammer for this. This may take some effort to accomplish.
 

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Next, you’ll want to remove the pump drive pulley.

This is supposed to just slide up and off, but due to a pump leak, this particular one had to be smashed off.
 

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We’re getting into it now!

Next, the outer drum gets removed. Put some small nails into the holes in the center of the rectangular cutouts to hold the slip shoes in the outer position. Like the pulley, it is supposed to simply lift up and off of the shaft extension. Unfortunately, this had to be smashed off as well on my machine.
 

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Now for the inner drum.

Like the latter two components, this one just lifts up and away from the shaft extension. This was the first bit that didn’t require the hammer, yay!
 

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Next up, you’ll need to remove your spring.

There are some spacers that are installed on this, so you’ll want to be sure that you don’t get them out of order. In my case, though, that didn’t really matter, as I was throwing away the whole clutch.
 

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Next,

Remove the two main clutch shoes, so that the U bolt that holds the carrier plate and shaft extension to the motor can be removed.
 

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Now, remove the two nuts on the U bolt…

And lift the shaft extension and carrier plate up and off. Once again, mine was so well rusted, that a little bit of persuasion from the hammer was necessary to get it off.
 

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Now, to talk clutches.

You have several options for a replacement clutch. You can order just the components you need, such as shoes and bearings, or you can do what I did, and get a complete assembly, under part number WH49X265. This includes everything but the pump drive pulley (part number WH7X45), and the pin that holds it on.
 
Now, to start the journey back from Narnia!

First up, you’ll want to inspect the motor shaft for any sort of rust or wear. Mine had some light surface rust, but nothing major. I cleaned it up with some sand paper, and then coated it with anti seize to hopefully ensure that the battle I fought removing the old clutch never happens again.
 

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Now we go back, in reverse order.

First, the shaft extension and carrier plate get reinstalled. I would recommend adding some anti seize to the nuts on the U bolt as well.
 

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We’re in the home stretch now!

Reinstall the outer drum. I also put anti seize on the shaft extension where it’s bearing rides to ensure that it wouldn’t get stuck like the last clutch did.
 

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Now, reinstall the pump drive pulley.

The service manual recommends sticking a nail or something through the hole while you drive the pin into it to keep it lined up, but I was able to do it with my bare hands, albeit with a lot of effort.
 

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