How Will You Be Keeping Warm This Winter...........

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We don't have a sub-tropical climate here in Amsterdam, but 4C is certainly not regarded as "hot". One needs gloves under 5C.

Toggles, are you descending from UK origin? One week ago I was in Liverpool and Chester and it was around 15-20C. I had only a jacket and fleece scarf and I was completely chilled to the bone. I thought that it was the sign of an oncoming illness as many locals were wearing T-shirts and shorts and seemed to be very comfortable, but when I got home I saw that I was dressed just like everyone else in Amsterdam so my conclusion is that Britons must have a different temperature regulating mechanism in their bodies.
 
Wall-vented heaters always draw fresh air from outside. You can't have an open system with wall-venting: there would be too much influence of the wind pressure.

We have natural gas here. Steel piping with threaded fittings is only used for larger diameter supplies, typically a steel pipe enters the house and continues till the gas meter. After the gas meter most tubes are copper. Gas pipes in streets under the pavement are usually plastic. Very old pipes are cast iron.

I always turn up the heat when I am going to bed :-)
 
LOL.

I was in the same town in Florida (hot climate)I mentioned above. Most locals were in fur coats, heavy sweaters, boots scarves etc.

One waitress was in shorts and a sleveless top/blouse.

There were space-heaters working to supplement the main heating system everyhwere in the resaturant.

Excuse me Miss, but how can you be in shorts when the locals are in furs? She laughed. "I'm from Michigan (north; a state near Canada) and 65*F (18*C)is as hot as it gets there. This is a heat-wave for me.

We has such a good laugh. It's all what you get used to and come to believe is "normal."
 
Native Southerners

Don't tolerate cold weather. And our (my) definition of cold is anything under 32F. I know that's something funny to people in the northeastern states but then again y'all wouldn't do well with our hot as hell humid summers. The humidity is so high it's hard to line dry clothes in July and August. Walking outside feels like a convection oven.

I'm thinking about pulling the siding off my house next year to insulate the walls. I have plaster walls inside but god is it ever drafty! Rebuilding the windows has helped but I made sure to buy some wool clothing for winter as I continue work on the place.
 
Fire up the ice-maker, and get me rubber pants!

~I know that's something funny to people in the northeastern states but then again y'all wouldn't do well with our hot as hell humid summers.

YOU GOT THAT RIGHT. A friend of my father's (90+ y.o. lady) suggested he lower his thermostat (i.e. turn UP the cooling) for two days for me to get adjusted to the heat when I went to see him in Florida in December.

I could not understand why the locals kept sayin "nice day, eh?" on dready cooler cloudy days. Apparently any relief from the heat is good there!
 
We have FHW natural gas 4 zones. Haven't turned it on yet. Trying for Nov 1, but I have to go out to CA next week so may turn it on so wife won't freeze. We have been using a couple of small pelonis disc safety electric heaters. One in the kitchen and one down in my office. We have a fan/vent/heater combo in the master bath. I put a thermostat on it when I installed it so its not on constantly. We use that in the mornings for shower and in the evening I turn it on for about 10 minutes before bed and put the floor fan on blowing in the bathroom. Heats the bedroom up a few degrees. We will try and keep the house down to 68 when home and down to 62 while gone. I think I will be using the hot tub more also to warm me up to the bones.
Jon
 
My brother once lived in an apartment in Chicago that had steam heat. I can always tell when a place is heated with steam as the apartments always feel terribly hot (like an oven) in the winter time. We went to a party and came home to my brothers place. We were both definitely feeling no pain. The guest room in his apartment felt like it was 90F (40C) in there. So we opened the bedroom window as we always feel better with fresh air in the bedroom after consuming alcohol. It was about 0F outside at the time.
Well sometime during the night the heat shut off. The entire apartment had cooled down to about 50F! Needless to say my brother and his wife were not in a good mood that day...

Since I moved to Texas I am having a harder time with the extreme cold up north. I am in MSP several times a week. I always get severe windburn if I have to go outside while there.

As for Floridians, I noticed that people there don't cool their houses like we do in Texas. Here we like to keep them as cold as possible, in Florida most of the homes I have been to just keep their thermostats set just a few degrees below the outside temperature.
 
The Joys of living in a sub tropical climate.

We get by with 1 reverse cycle split system AC unit, it runs for 1 hour in the morning during winter (May-August) at 19degC but only on mornings when the outside temp is under 10degC. That usually works out to about 3 or 4 days a week over the 3 month winter period

At Night for the same period it runs for 2-3 hours at the same temp, but we switch off when we go to bed. Luckily our house is thermally efficient and during winter the sun comes in the large front windows, heating the house during the day, and in summer it passes straight overhead.

Our electric Bill usually runs to around $280 - $300 AUD per quarter regardless of whether it is summer or winter.
 
Methinks the issue is the control system, not the type of fuel consumed or the distribution system.

With steam heat, the duration of the cycles must be sufficient such that the furthest radiators heat-up.

HeaTimer Corp. is THE name in controls in this area. As such a regular thermostat in an apartment is not really the best syystem to use unless it is the furthest from the boiler. The heat anticipator (in the thermostat) will shrot-cycle the boiler and it may take a very long time to make a sufficient heat of steam and/or not all radiators will heat-up.

Normally a HeaTimer will have two sensors.

Outdoor temp-day : Turns on heat when the outdoor temp is 55*F or below

Outdoor temp night: Provides heat when the outdoor temp is below 40*F



http://www.heat-timer.com/
 
Oct 01 in NYC? Jeez. Why can't I ever remember that date.

If you will notice the requirements for 10pm to 6am (8 hours) allow temps to fall to 56*F at night.

This MAY make sense if we realize that years ago the building superintendent(manager) needed to SLEEP for 8 hours and not be shoveling coal into the boiler all night long........


http://www.tenant.net/Court/Howcourt/heat.html
 
In NYC many building superintendents have a basement level apartment. Oftentimes, the heat is a pipe running across the ceiling and the floors in that unit are therefore cold.

The super., then, cranks the system up to where HE and HIS family are compfortable, which means everyone else ROASTS!

Newer HeaTimers are LOCKED to "local" input and are NOT adjustable by the superintendent. Management ONLY has control via a modem and a computer. With a few strategically place indoor thermostats/sensors, it can be ensured that all parts of the buiding that need to be heated reach the required minimum temperatures without excessive waste and/or overheating.
 
Actually more than the desire to save fuel(read: money)these fancier untis record building temps and cycle "on" times which is crucial to counter nusiance/unfounded complaints of "NO HEAT" which is not a joke in NYC, it is a CRIME.

Proof of fuel-oil purchased is NOT a defense, I have heard.
 
~As for Floridians, I noticed that people there don't cool their houses like we do in Texas.

Older people like warmer temperatures. At one time Florida was G-ds waiting room. (and ideal location for for those who were ready and waiting to return "home" (to G-d.)

In my (ridiculous) opinion the closer the indoor and outdoor temperatures are to each other the less one becomes ill. WITHIN LIMITS of course!
 
Knapp-Monarch

When I want to get toasted, I do it the Knapp-Monarch way!
I found this at the Salvation Army some years ago. No discernable use on it.
Works great. It actually has a red painted interior AND a RED Christmas-tree bulb which lights up the grille in red! I LOVE that little extra effort K-M put into the product just to make you feel that little-bit cozier.

10-8-2008-18-31-52--paulg.jpg
 
*FEH* off to the Krusher for you baby.

While I had her pried open, I discovered some burnt wires.

and presto whamo, with a little bit of research.........

It looks to me like the insulated crimp connectors were overheating...........

P.S. Thanks for the woodburner shot!

http://www.vornado.com/hr04facts.html
 
I don't know what to expect...

I've done just about everything I can think of to update and weatherize our house, don't know if it'll be enough this year. I was ahead of the curve, 7 years ago replaced our oversized 50% efficient furnace with a TOL 95+% dual stage furnace with 1/2 the btu rating of the old one. Gas bills went for $350/mo in coldest months to $90. Last year they crept back up to the $300/mo range. I resided the house a few years ago and added Tyvek, made a great deal of difference, only 40% of the house is sided but the brick does keep the drafts out. All windows are either newer Andersen's or have storms. Put spring loaded chimney caps on both fireplace flues, they are totally sealed. One weak spot is that I blew insulation into the attics a long time ago, now too much junk to add more, but all the junk should serve as some sort of insulation.

One of the best things about the new furnace is that it is set for CAC, continuous air circulation. There are absolutely 0 cold spots and no drafts anywhere in the house now. I think it also saves on gas in that the air is moved from room to room. Totally even temp everywhere in the house.

We don't have too many options to reduce our gas use, I'd like to pop in 8 new windows upstairs at some point, but with the storms they are pretty well sealed.
 
Matt, it seems that your house is practically airtight. Here in the Netherlands we are warned against these situations. We have many cases here of illnesses caused by bad ventilation in an attempt to save energy. Drafty is healthy!
 
Britan

Has more than cold to worry about, but the damp as well. Parts of the UK are further north than Moscow, so can get quite chilly, and when one factors in the damp,it can chill you right down to the bones.

Other problem is heating a damp house is very difficult to get "warm".

If one ever watches British television shows or films, it is not uncommon to see persons wearing pulls (sweaters) indoors, even housewives have one or two on under their aprons. In the US, persons would tend to turn the heat up, but that isn't always possible (energy costs can be dear on the other side of the pond), and again if the buidling has a damp problem, no matter how high the heating is turned up, you still are going to feel chilly.

When ever one is invited for a country house visit in the UK during the cooler months, one always brings the following:

Cashmere Sweaters
Cashmere Scarves and Shawls
Thick Knickers!
Wool Socks and or Tights
Personal Electric Blanket (with permission of course)

L.
 
Air Tight Homes In the UK and Europe

Back in thd ays of coal fired heating (ranges, stoves, fire places, etc), the average home in Britain had full air exchanges about 17 times per hour. This was due to draughts, especially in the windy climates/parts of the year, and was not all together a bad thing.

Those drafts helped carry away fumes and smoke from all those fires, though they also helped deposit soot and dust every where. Air circulation also helped somewhat with dampness, though not as much as modern dehumidifiers.
 
in my house its not a question of HOW we will we keep warm rather wether or not we will be ABLE to keep warm. These impending gas price hikes have us running scared.If you see me disappear suddenly in the future you might safly assume that me and mine have frozen.....lol....nervously l-ing ol
 
Irish and British indoor temperatures have increased to ridiculous levels in most homes in recent decades. I find the temperature in many stores and houses ridiculously warm to the level it's unpleasant.

In the past average room temperature was a chilly 16-20C (60-68F) in the UK (Ireland was similar but I have no stats)

It's now averaging 25-30C (77-86F) in some homes which is pretty energy hungry and unpleasant at the upper range.

I feel most comfortable at about 19C (66F). I'm actually quite happy at 16-19C (60-66F) too. In fact, my ideal day is about 12C (53F) with sunshine. I'm quite happy up to about 25C (77F), then I start to get uncomfortable.

Perhaps we do have a different set-point in our bodies internal heat regulation systems. I generally find weather over 30C (86F) very difficult to handle.

I remember spending a summer in France as a teenager and the kids I was hanging around with thought I was being a total wuss when I wanted to stop playing tennis because I was too hot. It was about 33C (91.4F). So, under duress I carried on playing and ended up collapsing and being hospitalised with heat stroke!! They considered it a 'normal' summers' day and not exceptionally hot and I am quite fit. It was just a weird reaction to the heat.

I know you can make your body acclimatise to different environments over time, but I do think that many of us native to Britain and Ireland do seem to have a relatively cool range of operating temperatures that we're comfortable in.

I guess you're adapted to your environment.
 
on heating systems...

The vast majority of Irish homes are heated by hydronic i.e. water-filled radiators. Water is pumped through circuits driven by a circulation pump and the systems are usually divided into zones controlled by thermostats. When the set-point is reached an electric valve closes the circuit and/or the pump stops and the radiators cool.

The most common heat sources are:
1) natural gas (vast majority of systems, particularly in urban areas)
2) gas oil (kerosine) via a pressure jet burner (quite common in rural areas and in many older suburban areas which were not connected to natural gas until the 1970s / 1980s)
3) LPG filled into a bulk storage tank - (common in rural areas where mains natural gas is unavailable)

People also supplement such systems with traditional sources like solid-fuel fired ranges which may provide heat to the hydronic system. These are typically found in rural areas and may burn peat (turf) or wood (less common).
Note: coal burning became rare in Ireland after the 1970s/80s due to air quality issues. It's illegal in most built-up areas (even quite small built up areas). Open fires and burners have to use smokeless fuels.

Finally, in more recent years people are adding environmentally friendly alternatives to their heating systems. These also typically work together with a more conventional heat source such as a gas boiler.

Solar is increasingly common for hot-water. Heat pumps sourcing their heat from ground or air are also increasingly common.
Wood-pellet burners using biomass are becoming popular too, although they're often a little more suited to large outer suburban and rural dwellings due to the need for bunkers for fuel storage etc.

Electric heating's not very common as it's very expensive to run relative to other fuels. However, we do have quite a lot of storage heaters these use night-rate electricity to heat bricks in radiators which is gradually released throughout the day. These systems can be very difficult to control. You set an input level which controls how much energy the heaters will store in the bricks. Then an output level which controls dampers or fans which release the heat through the day.

The more modern systems use a complicated control system which measures the outdoor temperature, then decides how much heat to store overnight to achieve a comfortable temperature during the day.

They often also have day-rate boost heaters built into the same units which use full-price electricity to provide an extra boost where necessary.

Portable plug-in heaters are also widely available in various formats i.e. convectors, fan heaters and oil-filled radiators these are rated up to 3000W and can be used to very quickly heat a room to a comfortable temp.

Open fires remain quite popular too, increasingly just for decorative and psychological value though. These either burn turf (often compressed into briquettes), wood, biomass briquettes or low-smoke coals. Or, more commonly still, they use gas to create the effect of a 'real fire'. These gas fires look totally realistic, enough to completely fool tourists and locals in pubs who occasionally try to stoke them!!

Stoves, ranges and various enclosed burners are found in rural areas in some houses and go in and out of fashion in 'yuppie' kitchens and living rooms.
 
With my two 60% efficient natural draft gas furnaces!

I want new ones, but there is no money for it and Nordyne is about to release some cool stuff.
 
Interesting that in Georgia, [hot southern climate] one wants more efficient furnaces.

I was in south Florida and am amazed that natural gas (when avaialable) is frequently used only for the clothes dryer and hot water heater.

It was explained to me like this. Gas is too hot to cook with in a residence. PERIOD. [In a business the economy of doing so, as well as a powerful exhaust-hood system makes it worthwile). If one only needs heat for 5 to 15 days per year (and many of those, nights only) it does not pay to have a gas furnace in terms of purchasing one and installing one. Similarly, even heat-pumps are sometimes scorned for electric heating coils strips in the ducts,agaion in the name of installatio/purchase cost. The cost of electricity also be damned.

One way to get better heating in the south where the SUPPLY air vents are up high (ie. better for cooling) is to ensure that there is a return low on the wall or in the floor.

UHM in the north too where stores tend to have supply and returns in the ceiling, simply adding a low return will boost comfort and reduce energy costs tremendously duirng the heating season.
 
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