I know there is a formula for this.....Amps into watts

[maytagbear]

However, at the moment, I forget it. Is it amps divided by watts, or what?

Plus, I'll know where to look....when I need to know again.

Also, if you have any questions electrical, this might be a reasonable place to ask them.

Thank you in advance!

Lawrence/Maytagbear

 

[circlew]

If you know the amps and the voltage, you can determine the watts by multiplying the amps X volts. For example 30 amps X 240 volts = 7200 watts.

Calculate/Convert Watts, Volts, Amps & Ohms - Electrical Usage Calculator

Calculate watts, volts, amps & ohms, fill in any 2 fields and the rest will be converted.

energyusecalculator.com

 

[launderess]

Flip side as we all learned in grade school

Division is the opposite of multiplication. So Watts divided by Volts will give you amps. http://www.renewableedge.com/calculate_volts_amps_watts.html

 

[turquoisedude]

Just don't plug in a 2 with a 6....

 

[mattl]

Just remember PIE - it's all you need.  Power(watts )=I (current  amps) x E (voltage)  You can rearrange it to get any value.

 

[blackstone]

Friedrich Makes a Mistake

I've pointed out this mistake to Friedrich a couple of years ago, when I bought one of these dehumidifier models. I guess the marketing people didn't get the message.

 

[kb0nes]

I think you already have your answer but I wanted to share this. Print this out and hang it somewhere handy.

For those that mess with electrical things here is the Swiss-army knife of Ohm's Law complete with all the power formulae included.

 

[henene4]

Amp ratings on appliances

Aren't ment to determine wattage. Some items have a huge turn on current, but a verry low running current.

A label rating is ment to determine if a circut is suited to run the appliance.

If an appliance draws a huge rush of current for a short time (like a fridge drawing 6-7 amps while starting for a second), that rush might be enough to trigger a fuse.

But the incuring power is not held for a significant time. Thus, wires aren't subject to the load long enough for it to matter.

Thus, the rating plates state the maximum current an appliance draws AND the highest wattage it draws for a significant power of time.

Best example: heatpump dryers. Most of them are rated at 6+A, which at 240V would put them at 1500W, some even are rated at 10A, putting them at 2400W. Yet they are labeled at 1kW or lower and use only about 1,5kWh in a cycle takeing 2-3h. So that dosen't add up.

 

[Chetlaham]

Thats very true Henene4, and don't forget power factor. You can have more than double the current draw relative to watts/voltage=current.

 

[blackstone]

I understand the concept of a higher current draw when the motor is starting. The label should distinguish between starting and running amps.

 

[Chetlaham]

On larger units like Air conditioners, they often state the locked rotor amps (LRA) and running load amp (RLA).