I Need A Different Agitator...Power-Fin Is Tearing Laundry

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scrubflex

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May 12, 2008
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bronx, new york
I have to replace my Power-fin agitator, it's tearing up my laundry...the added power flexing of the fins is what I believe is damaging my clothes and I have to make a change...the straight vane Maytag agitators work better with the shorter stroke agitation...I love to try the 2ND BEST Kenmore agitator after the Dual Action agitator...the Super Roto-SWIRL agitator
 
If you load the machine correctly and don’t overload the machine it shouldn’t damage anything.

QSD-DAN pretty much explains everything in reply #48 in this thread

 
Yea, I never overload it because it hinders the turnover...I make sure there's plenty of water for easy movement and circulation. It looks like the agitator jerks at the end of the agitation stroke
 
Hmm...I'm ready to try a different agitator as I mentioned...a club member was going to sell me a gold super roto-swirl with the matching cap...but I did not plan right so I lost it.
 
Since I never overload my Maytag A606, never have issues with things showing wear or getting damaged and since I put a 120F low heat thermostat in the gas HOH dryer that is paired up with my A606, things definitely won’t get damaged getting washed and dried in that set.
 
check your agitator, there may be jagged edges snagging items causing damage....

if you have a large capacity, I recommend the Load Sensor agitator....but then again, either one unless new, may have rough edges as well that need sanded down....

not a normal thing for jagged edges, but it can happen...

button, zippers, clips, etc can cause scraping inside a machine.....it may be the other way around, your clothing is causing damage to your machine!...

as for drying temps.....it was told to me, and in fact I just checked on my gas maytag.....for a setting of example of LOW, 120 degrees....this is not modulated, and 120 is not when the heat turns off, but when the heat turns ON....goes all the way up to 170, cuts off and continues to run until the temp drops to 120, then it comes on again....my Kenmore and GE do the same thing.....

so in thinking clothing is not subject to hot temps when washing.....IT SURE IS if your using a dryer....

see for yourself, as I just did, stick a meat thermometer in your dryer....and monitor when the heat source comes on and goes off for all your available temperature selections....

people are funny in washing denim jeans in cold, to prevent shrinking and fading....then tossing into a dryer....hence the blue tinted drums....nope, no fading going on there....and no chance of shrinkage in a 180 degree dryer!


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Checking the temperature of a dryer at the exhaust with no clothes in the machine often will give a false reading.  The temperature may substantially overshoot the cut-off point without clothes in the drum to moderate the temperature swing.  Wet clothes moderate the temperature better than dry items.
 
yes exactly Glenn....

this should be taken with a load of clothing.....and monitor the temps throughout the cycle....also watching when the heat source cycles....

most people think by selecting LOW, that the machine only goes UP to that temp, and that would be incorrect for most machines....unless you have a modulating burner, or two elements...
 
 
Bimetal dryer thermostats typically are rated as Lsomething1-something2.

Lsomething1 is the cut-off temp.

-something2 is the differential-drop for cut-on.

Thus an L135-15F turns the heat off when it registers 135°F, and back on at 120°F.

Any overswing is due to residual heat dissipating from the element.

I recently tested a WP coin-op dryer.  It has one thermostat L155-25F with a bias heater to skew for two lower temps.  Set on Delicate/Low with a bunch of dry items the exhaust temp swung between 140-ish°F and 115°F.  It did not go up to 170°F on either High/Regular, Med/PermPress, or Low/Delicate.

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