I should give up....

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kenmoreguy89

kenmoreguy89

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Joined
Feb 23, 2010
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2,995
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Valenza Piemonte, Italy- Soon to be US immigrant.
I should give up with my Speed Queen gas dryer, after changing: Coils, high limit thermostat, and  also a melted roller and belt it is still not working.
I'd ask if it is possible that the cycling thermostat may be cause of gas igniting problems, or flame sensor?  Practically my dryer after a while that is still  do light the gas, gas stay lighted for 3 -4 minutes, shuts off.... get reignited  another time,  stay lighted the same time lapse then gas shuts off and does not get re-ignited anymore, ignitor keeps going glowing red but no flame, after ignitor goes red   gas valve  always opens though  and gas comes out for about 10 seconds (if I stop the dryer during this  I can smell gas odor in the drum)  but no flame, looks it comes out weaker than it should and do the first times .....and  gas will never light up until I stop the dryer for about 2-3 hours....
I'm thinking to definitely give up....that's  a cursed dryer....
 
I had the exact same thing happen with my Kenmore gas dryer many, many years ago. The problem was the vent on the outside of the house was blocked at the very end. I had checked out everything and thought the dryer was done with. My brother in law dove into it and found that the neighbor had pushed snow up against the metal vent, bent it shut, so it couldnt exhaust right and that little bit of lint clogging the end of it made the safety things shut it off.
 
Thanks

Wished would be that simple for me, my isssue is going ahead since October, ordered all the pieces, I had 2 change of coils etc...but I'm at starting point, of course the vent was clean and it's clean right now, new hose....it goes straight into the vent hood outside behind it,  and it's clean,  while disassembling I also cleaned the blower....
So I'm sure it should not be a venting issue.....
Initially I thought it could have been a gas delivery pressure issue as the hose was a little bent, but the same hose brings gas to the cooktop and it works just like it should, also tried to pull the rubber  gas  hose  going to the dryer (here in Italy you can use approved gas rubber flexible hoses)  outside and push it in a bowl full of water to see power of gas coming out and it poured out a good quantity of gas as it should making lots of bubbles underwater. for awhile...
So there is pressure.....

May be a valve assembly issue at this point... but it's too expensive to buy a 220 volt 50 Hz so I think I will just have to change dryer...
Thank you for your experience.
 
Not Ignating SQ Gas Dryer

Do try running the dryer with NO vent attached, if this is not the problem it may be a bad flame sensor or the gas valve itself, the 120V 60 HZ valves are the same as the 220V 50 HZ valves, just transfer the new coils to the new valve, also are you sure that you got 220 volt coils now?

 

And if all else fails it might be worth having an experienced technician look over the dryer as it would probably be much cheaper to fix this dryer, the problem cannot be all that expensive or difficult to fix, Good Luck , John.
 
Thank you John

Hi John,  I was told by the Speed Queen dealer and Speed Queen assistance in USA (via email)  that the coils I needed  were the same that works with 120 volt 60 Hz  and provided me with this part number:58804B & 58804A  , regarding the valve indeed the repairman of the SQ dealer over here  told me had to be a  50 hz and they had it on sale for 240 euros but maybe he just  told me that because he wanted to sell it, the part number he told me was:<span class="Apple-style-span"> 59063P</span> ....so I could actually use a 120v 60hz? That would be good to know as I've seen many on ebay and also an universal valve that would be good for Speed Queens that is cheap, will post link later.

But you say it could be even the flame sensor?

I'd ask  so if you  maybe know  if  the  flame sensor should  be a 220 volt 50 hz, if not I will try to replace that one also...it should not cost much from USA.

I will try again to run dryer with hose detached and see how does anyway, regarding repairman if he ask 240 just for the valve assembly who knows how much he will charge me for repair...unfortunately the repair costs are nit the same there're in USA...
P.S After my explanation by phone the SQ repairman diagnosed a bad valve, but again, not sure if he wanted just to make $$$ or actually help diagnosing the real problem,....

Thank you again John

http://www.ebay.it/itm/130584349877?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
 
I had the mystery no-fire problem with a Kenmore. Glowed, sometimes lit, most times not. They sold me a Maytag packaged coil for it, apparently there is a lot of crossover in gas parts. Back to normal.

The coil was NOT "open" but defective nonetheless.
 
Not Ignating SQ Gas Dryer

Frederico, if you have 120V coils on your dryer I think that is now the problem, 120V coils would quickly overheat and may go open and as you said they may take hours to cool, the flame sensor would be the same whether it was for 240v or 120V as it is just a simple switch.
 
mmmmhhh..... now I'm pissed,  so it means that they told me an inaccuracy, I wrote to Speed Queen just to ask this, and a certain justin Deuel from Alliance told me that the 120 v coils part number:<a name="start_44698.656092">58804B & 58804A</a>  were good anyway for my 240 volt model  as did the Repairman of the Speed Queen dealer  near me to which they turned the email   and with which I started speaking since then..... maybe he just said that because Alliance told so, he maybe just had no Idea...

So please, do you maybe can help me identifying the right part number for the 220 volt coils? I started googling but no results typing "gas dryer coils 220 volt"....
Hope that this is the problem now....

Thank you so much!

[this post was last edited: 1/27/2013-14:35]
 
P,S John I detached the vent  and vented it through the window for awhile.....nothing changes gas just stops getting ignited after the 3rd time, and  air flow is good and strong though as it is the one coming out the hood...

Then I attached it again, I did run a load and  this time did beat  it's record, gas got  reignited for well  5 times, then no more...waited an hour and tried again, this time it got reignited for 3 times, then  no more, but load was dry at that point....  tried more  attempts later when empty  and I noticed it does like it used before, if I shut off the gas tap, stop dryer, wait 20 mins and then open the tap and start dryer gas gets ignited.... and that is always so....while when I leave tap opened and try after 20 mins gas  will never light if not after 1 to 3 hours, can't really tell why...is there an explainable technical reason for this?

Thanks
 
That's what my bad valve did. Almost always lit initially but less likely the longer it ran.

Solenoid pull decreases with temperature. A shorted turn takes out 3 turns worth of flux and the short makes temp rise faster so the whole coil becomes weaker the longer it's on.

If there is really 240V across a 120V coil, temp is going to rise substantially even if the coil itself is not bad.
 
Didn't have your model, just generic search. I get US sellers. "240v" is going to pull up commercial parts. The one you linked is also commercial, 75lb. This is a home machine, right? Are there online EU parts sellers?

I found the Whirlpool/Maytag part I bought, coil kit for both valves, $25. Some sites list that for SQ, could well be wrong.

Nothing more definitive. They seldom mention voltage and only a few have photos.
 
Yes I know, the places where I bought the coils from  stated they were the same coils used on: Speed Queen, Amana, Maytag, Whirlpool.
I just searched them  with the part number provided by Speed Queen/alliance  assistance through their website, and found them easily in USA on ebay .... I purchased them 2 times thinking the first coils I got were defective/damaged (contacts were bumped due to ridicolous packaging).

I did not even questioned the repairman of the italian SQ dealer how much they costed from them, I just asked how much was the valve (once I told him I already replaced the coils and so he diagnosed a bad valve), this for 2 main reasons, one is that  I like supporting american  market and  economy when I can,  and two I was pretty sure they were anyway cheaper to buy from USA.

But if the thing Speed Queen told me about regular 120 volt  coils being suitable for 220 volt machines in not correct, so after having wasted time and money, I have to call dealer again and buy from them, I asked if you  maybe knew the part number for these 220/240 volt coils for the reasons I told before pretty sure I'd save finding them in the U.S.
A coil kit from U.S costed me 18$ including shjpping on ebay.
I will call the dealer tomorrow anyway, I wanted do that today but couldn't, got out from work too late and had to get to physician then.

Said this my model is: LGS19AW-3088

 Serial number:S9905267831

 

My model is a Raytheon (<span id="result_box" class="short_text" lang="en"><span class="hps">important</span> <span class="hps">company</span> <span class="hps">in the defense crafts etc...) </span></span> marketed  machine for  USA Navy base and  american families of american  soldiers and  for consulates american citizens living abroad, infact it was purchased from  a marine of US Navy base here in Italy, but it's fully made by Speed Queen.

I attach pic of data label of the dryer, sorry for Quality:

[this post was last edited: 1/28/2013-14:24]

kenmoreguy89++1-28-2013-14-04-43.jpg
 
Those coils resemble mine and the ones I saw online. 2 pins on one, 3 on the other. I don't know how to resolve the voltage thing. The EU/240V should have its own model number different from the US version and that "should" sort it but even the tech support seems confused.

Raytheon was once a parent company for UniMac, Huebsch, Cissell, SQ. Alliance bought them. I found their online sales/support poor everywhere I looked. Since most of their machines are 30#-150#, one gets the impression their consumer product lines don't get much attention.
 
The arcane mystery of the coils voltage has been finally explained.

Everyone was correct then, I called the repairman of zone  and speaking with him and questioning more I did put him in difficulty he then  admitted he knows very few of these machines and just do little repairs as belts, coils and replacement liker that, so he kindly gave me the number of another more experienced and trained  repairman of the Ventaria (main Speed Queen dealer in Nothern Italy), I spoke with this kind  repairman and he  explained me everything....<span id="result_box" class="short_text" lang="en"><span class="hps"> </span></span>

<span id="result_box" class="short_text" lang="en"><span class="hps">Substantially the coils are 120 volt coils, BUT this is only because valve and burner stuff works thanks to a transformer that transform electricity going to the valve, while motor is a 240/220 volt...</span></span>

<span class="short_text" lang="en"><span class="hps">So speaking with him he diagnosed a bad valve as well, he said that all I need is a regular valve from USA, to be on the safer side he told me to use a 50hz one (different number) but stated  that even a 60hz would work anyway....
Also said there're ones rated for both cycles 50 and 60....</span></span>

<span class="short_text" lang="en"><span class="hps">So I will try purchasing one from USA,  and hope this will work...
He stated that probably I have a stuck valve that got hard to open and  as long coils do heats up a bit and power  gets  weaker so they're not able to open valve totally after 2 or 3 ignitions, that is why I get gas odor in the drum but no flame because they try opening but cannot fully open the valve to have a decent gas flow to be ignited...
That is what he guessed...
Makes sense.
</span></span>

 

 
 

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