I would love to get my sensitemp to work.

[zinniz]

Hello, I'm new here. I found your site when searching for information on getting my Sensi-Temp burner to work, and getting my range in better condition.

This range came with my house, and I have loved it from the first time I used it. How can anyone do without a double oven? It is simply fantastic. I'm not sure what year it is, but I would guess late 60s.

What I don't like is that the burners are dodgy. Most of the time I can get the three main burners to work, and for a brief period of 3 or 4 months, the sensi-temp burner started working. But now when I turn it on, there's a hum and the knob vibrates very slightly. It does not get hot.

My Grandpa is a retired appliance repairman, but as he's in his late 80s and 250 miles away, he's no good for an on-site visit. All he told me was "Those sensitemp burners go bad all the time--replace it with a regular burner". My local appliance repair company said there's no way to replace it with a regular burner and they can't get parts to fix it.

I have seen enough posts about these to know that what Grandpa said is true--they do go bad. But I've also seen quite a few that appear to be very promising with the possibility of getting it working again.

I don't have much experience with electrical work, but my husband does have some experience. What would you recommend for the next steps? Any good resources on how to go about this?

Also, the plastic covering the front of the clock is stained with grease on the inside (ugh!). Any tips on how to disassemble and clean? I'm at least happy the clock and timer work, as does my light! If I can get four functional burners I will be a happy camper.

 

[danemodsandy]

There Is Hope!

The problem with your Sensi-Temp burner is almost certainly the sensor (the part in the center of the burner), or the responder (behind the knob). Given that you're hearing a hum and feeling the knob vibrate, my money would be on the responder. To put things in terms that are perhaps overly simple, the sensor determines the temperature of the pan, and the responder adjusts the temperature to give you what you set. The sensor's job is to tell the responder what is needed.

One member here, John, whose handle is combo52, sometimes has parts for these units. He's going to need to know your range's model number and serial number; both these numbers will be on a metal plate on the frame of the oven door opening. John can also help you diagnose the problem better. Parts also turn up on eBay.

John can probably help you diagnose and repair the problems with your other burners as well. I can see one problem on your right rear burner (the 8-inch unit without Sensi-Temp); the burner looks as if it could have been badly overheated. This often occurs when someone has been cooking on high heat, takes the pot or pan off the burner, and then forgets to turn the burner off.

Your range is a top-of-the-line 40-inch range from about 1972. It originally had a griddle, a rotisserie and a meat probe thermometer. If yours still has all those accessories, you have some real rarities.

The range is very much worth keeping and repairing. You will not find anything on today's market that even begins to approach the quality level of that unit.

 

[zinniz]

Thank you!

Thanks for your help. I will find out the model and serial number and update the thread. Also, I do have the meat thermometer, but not the griddle or rotisserie. I will have to keep an eye out for those accessories second-hand!

As for the rear right burner, I'm amazed you could spot anything wrong in that cell phone photo. I'm sure you are right--As I look at it carefully, the burner does appear to be damaged. I hadn't paid too much attention to it because it does work, but now I can see it should be replaced. Who knows how long it has been that way. I can't think of any time I have overheated it by accident, but this stove has been around longer than I have.

 

[danemodsandy]

It'll All Be Okay....

Once you have a model and serial number, John can advise you of parts availability and cost. Be aware that Sensi-Temp parts are not cheap, but I have always found John's pricing to be very fair.

John runs a busy appliance repair service in the D.C. area, so it can be a few days before he has time to log on here, scan the threads, and find ones that he needs to look at. Please don't despair; John is a businesslike person and will get to it.

Also, as you look at repair costs on your range, it will be useful to go to your local Home Depot or Lowe's and look at their ranges. Look at the cheapest ones you can find, and you'll be shocked at what these stores are asking for pieces of garbage. When you are totaling up repair costs for your range, they will not be as much as that, and you'll have something worth owning when you're done.

 

[danemodsandy]

P.S.:

Looking a little more closely at the photo you provided, your range is later than 1972.

In the mid-1970s, the Feds regulated a feature that had been on ranges for a long time - convenience outlets. Those were electric outlets on the backguards of ranges; ranges with automatic ovens like yours usually had two - one regular outlet, and one timed outlet controlled by the automatic oven timer. You could use the timed outlet to start percolators, etc. automatically in the morning.

However, your range does not have these outlets, so that makes it mid-'70s or later, after this feature was regulated out of existence. The Feds felt that stupid people might melt an appliance cord on a hot burner, so they made sure no one could have convenience outlets.

Here's a photo of a slightly earlier range that does have the convenience outlets, at the very bottom of the backguard, under the burner control knobs. The photo is cut off, so only one is in the picture, but there were two on this model:

 

[zinniz]

Model and Serial #

The Model Number is J CP 6800 1 WH
Serial Number: DZ 224927 G

Based on a chart for serial number/manufacture dates, it looks like this puts it at February 1976.

 

[danemodsandy]

Carrie:

John combo52 will hopefully be along presently. I've also sent him a private message to let him know you're in need of assistance, linking him to this thread.

P.S.: Glad to see you found the GE date decoder and used it by yourself. If you're going to keep vintage appliances running, that kind of initiative really helps.

 

[robinsondm]

Sensi-Temp

<a name="start_51797.741972">Carrie,</a>

 

I have a 1966 40-inch GE Range, and the Sensi-Temp feature is definitely worth having. I repaired my Sensi-Temp in 2000, and it has continued to work since then. My range needed both a sensor and a responder, and back in 2000, GE still sold both parts (not any more, unfortunately).

 

According to repairclinic.com, which is usually pretty accurate, your Sensi-Temp sensor is part number WB21X5207. That's the same as on my range. Repairclinic doesn't report your responder part number, but IF it's the same as on my range, that would be WB21X153. That part is available on eBay now. As Sandy mentioned, John (combo52) may also have the parts you need.


 

Another tip: If you want to confirm the above part numbers, you can call GE Appliance Parts at 1-877-959-8688. For an older range like yours, they may need to look up the part numbers on microfiche, which takes several minutes -- and you may even need to call twice before getting all the information you need -- but this is a helpful service.

 

Good luck with the repairs, to a fellow owner of a vintage GE range!

 

Dean

 

[combo52]

SenceAtemp burner issues

Hi Carrie, the most likely failure is the sensor, you can check it by testing the resistance across it, if it is OK you should come up with about 17.5 ohms, if it tests bad and you want to check weather the responder is good just connect the two yellow wires together and the burner will heat at FULL HEAT, it is not a good idea to leave the sensor bypassed [ you will end setting fire to something ]. I do have some good used sensors that I will sell if you find this is all you need and want to try fixing this neat feature, if it were me I would fix it.

It is also fairly easy to install a regular infinite switch on this range and if you do you do not lose the three size burner or the grill feature.

Deans advice is good, your range uses the same sensor that his needed, the responder however would have a different part#.

For the record the Feds had nothing to do with convenience outlets disappearing from ranges. This was done by UL Underwriters Laboratory, which is a private [ non government association ] that is supported by the appliance industry [ and others ].

This was a good regulation and an easy one to get range manufacturers to agree to BECAUSE it saved them MONEY and because everyone dropped the feature at the same time there was no sales disadvantage in eliminating convenience outlets, at the same the push to turn safety controls also became mandatory [ another life saving feature that your range has, both of these features became a UL regulation in 1974.

John L.

 

[danemodsandy]

John:

I gladly stand corrected on the source of the mandate against convenience outlets, but I will forever wish that it had not happened.

On my present GE J 370 with convenience outlets, I have the happy option of starting my Farberware perc automatically in the morning, without the use of a cluttering plug-in timer. The non-timed outlet also gives me an additional outlet on that side of the kitchen, and outlets are manna from Heaven in houses built when mine was, which was 1950.

I'm glad to hear you think Carrie's problem is the sensor. That's easier to get to and to replace than the responder, at least for us non-pro types. I'm sure either assembly would be a piece of cake for you.

 

[norgeway]

Its kind of odd...

Any feature you want, they have removed, anything useless they have added!!!lol!

 

[combo52]

Convenience Outlets On Electric Ranges

Hi Sandy And Hans, yes I agree with both of you, convenience outlets on electric ranges could be very useful in older homes that did not have enough circuits in the kitchen, many a portable dishwasher was run on these outlets along with waffle irons, clothes washers and on and on. The convenience outlets were less useful on gas ranges because they were usually just plugged into the general kitchens wiring, but on an electric range you got a separate dedicated 15 or 20 Amp outlet.

 

[norgeway]

I use them for..

The waffle iron/electric frying pan or the electric deep fryer, also the crock pot,they are also great when making 7 minute icing,'portable mixer"..The push to turn knobs spelled the end for pushbuttons, which I always loved.

 

[robinsondm]

Sensor on eBay!

Carrie (zinniz),

 

There's a Sensi-Temp sensor on eBay now, for what I think is a good price. Of course, John (combo52) may be able to sell you one at an even better price. I'll leave that up to you and him.

 

Pardon Our Interruption...

 

<a name="start_51797.742036"><strong>Good luck!</strong></a>

 

<strong>Dean
</strong>

 

[danemodsandy]

Wow!

That is an incredible price!

Go gettem, Carrie!

 

[combo52]

GE Sensor

That is an excellent price, when these went NLA these were nearly $200.00, one of you with this range should get this and if no one wants it I will buy it.

 

[zinniz]

Sensor ordered

Woo hoo! I just got that part on eBay. Even if that's not what's wrong right now, it will be great to have it for future needs.

John--I will test the sensor after work today. I really appreciate your advice!

 

[zinniz]

Probably is the sensor...

I got out my husband's multimeter and I'm seeing 4.7 ohms across the sensor. I also pulled the assembly out and from the looks of it, I would say someone has attempted a repair in the past. I haven't seen a photo of one of these things from the bottom so I can't be sure but it certainly doesn't seem like this is how it should look.

 

[robinsondm]

Gray stuff on sensor

Carrie,

Great job nabbing that eBay sensor! You're welcome. ;-)

If you're talking about that gray blob on the bottom, when you say the sensor doesn't look normal -- actually, that is normal! I've replaced my Sensi-Temp sensor in the past, and they do have that gray blob of stuff -- I assume it's a high temperature adhesive and/or sealant -- on the bottom.

I just wanted to mention this, so you won't assume something is wrong with your new sensor. Good luck,

Dean