I would love to get my sensitemp to work.
- Thread starter zinniz
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First automatic GE burner was the hydraulic controlled "Automatic Calrod". Around 1960, I believe, it was changed to an electric control and renamed "Sensi-temp". The first Sensi-temp used a different sensor than later Sensi-temp. I don't know what year that change was made. The part number for the second style is WB21X5207 and has yellow leads. Im sure someone here knows year of change and part number for the earlier sensor.
Best bet is to look on ebay. I got one there earlier this year. They are usually quite expensive but keep watching and eventually one will be listed at a "reasonable" price. You can follow a search and ebay will email you an alert when one is listed.
Look at this old thread for a picture of one version of electric sensor. Its referred to as being the earlier one. Looks like it had white leads.
http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?50651
[this post was last edited: 11/22/2016-17:04]
Best bet is to look on ebay. I got one there earlier this year. They are usually quite expensive but keep watching and eventually one will be listed at a "reasonable" price. You can follow a search and ebay will email you an alert when one is listed.
Look at this old thread for a picture of one version of electric sensor. Its referred to as being the earlier one. Looks like it had white leads.
http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?50651
[this post was last edited: 11/22/2016-17:04]
sel8207
Well-known member
sensor or responder unit?
is that the sensi temp sensor unit (in the middle of the burner), or the responder unit (which is in the console)? Maybe posting a pic of the stove would give an idea of the year? I can remember reading somewhere at this site, some communication between the techs in the field who were repairing them, then sending in the parts for testing, and the company finding out that the sensor unit in the middle of the burner was rarely the problem. It was usually the responder unit, in the console. I did see a responder unit on eBay recently, for 89$. Don't know what year it is for though. On eBay search you can type in 'vintage General Electric' and see what comes up. Good luck to you. Les
is that the sensi temp sensor unit (in the middle of the burner), or the responder unit (which is in the console)? Maybe posting a pic of the stove would give an idea of the year? I can remember reading somewhere at this site, some communication between the techs in the field who were repairing them, then sending in the parts for testing, and the company finding out that the sensor unit in the middle of the burner was rarely the problem. It was usually the responder unit, in the console. I did see a responder unit on eBay recently, for 89$. Don't know what year it is for though. On eBay search you can type in 'vintage General Electric' and see what comes up. Good luck to you. Les
looking for GE sensi temp part # WB21X5207
my husband read this thread and he tried to test it and he concluded that it was the sensi temp. here is a picture, we believe the stove is around the year 1965? the GE model # is GAL19289. i did try an ebay and internet search w/ no luck so far.
my husband read this thread and he tried to test it and he concluded that it was the sensi temp. here is a picture, we believe the stove is around the year 1965? the GE model # is GAL19289. i did try an ebay and internet search w/ no luck so far.
Non Heating Sensatemp Burners
70-80% of the time the sensor is bad, Part # WB21X5207 is the sensor that was used on all GE STBs after around 1962-the mid 80s when GE discontinued this wonderful feature.
The other 20-30% of the time you either have a bad transformer or responder. In rare cases you may have a broken wire where the wires connect to the element and even more rarely you could have a bad element. The elements seldom failed on STBs because the sensor system protected the element from the overheating abuse that many users of electric ranges put the surface elements through by running them red hot with warped or too small a pan on larger elements.
John L.
70-80% of the time the sensor is bad, Part # WB21X5207 is the sensor that was used on all GE STBs after around 1962-the mid 80s when GE discontinued this wonderful feature.
The other 20-30% of the time you either have a bad transformer or responder. In rare cases you may have a broken wire where the wires connect to the element and even more rarely you could have a bad element. The elements seldom failed on STBs because the sensor system protected the element from the overheating abuse that many users of electric ranges put the surface elements through by running them red hot with warped or too small a pan on larger elements.
John L.
non-heating sensitemp burner
John (combo52),
my husband isolated sensitemp sensor, checked continuity and there was none.
do you know where we can get one of these or do you have one for sale? i have checked ebay and online with no luck.
thank you and take care.
John (combo52),
my husband isolated sensitemp sensor, checked continuity and there was none.
do you know where we can get one of these or do you have one for sale? i have checked ebay and online with no luck.
thank you and take care.
Hi Sirena, thanks for asking but unfortunately we have exhausted our supply of these sensors at this time. They were used for a long time so if you keep checking on line you may find a good new or used one. Two weeks ago I was working on one of our customers ranges that had a bad sensor and I converted to a regular infinite switch.
John
John
Combo 52,
What are you referring to when you said you converted a unit to a regular infinite switch? My sensor is out on my stove. The last time I replaced it GE still had the part available. They show up on eBay but are pricey.
Janit
What are you referring to when you said you converted a unit to a regular infinite switch? My sensor is out on my stove. The last time I replaced it GE still had the part available. They show up on eBay but are pricey.
Janit
You can install a regular infinite switch in place of the responder control and the burner will work like a newer range.
GE had a kit to do this on any ST burner range they ever made, I dough that the kit is still available but any good tech can install a regular inf Sw kit in about 30 minutes so you will still have full use of the burner.
GE had a kit to do this on any ST burner range they ever made, I dough that the kit is still available but any good tech can install a regular inf Sw kit in about 30 minutes so you will still have full use of the burner.
lawood
New member
Looking to sell my GE P7 40" range
Hello - I am remodeling my kitchen and am looking to sell my vintage GE P7 40" range. The model/serial number tag is only partly legible. All I can see is J CP 68. Looking at the first post above, my range looks identical. Can I assume that it is also from 1976? The kitchen was last remodeled in 1952, but based on what I find online, it doesn't look like an early 1950's model. Also, any idea on how to reach people who would be interested in it? The main oven works well, including the self-clean feature. All burners work, but the Sensi-temp burner is wobbly. There are two heating elements in the smaller oven, the top one works but the bottom one does not. Thank you for any info you can provide!
Hello - I am remodeling my kitchen and am looking to sell my vintage GE P7 40" range. The model/serial number tag is only partly legible. All I can see is J CP 68. Looking at the first post above, my range looks identical. Can I assume that it is also from 1976? The kitchen was last remodeled in 1952, but based on what I find online, it doesn't look like an early 1950's model. Also, any idea on how to reach people who would be interested in it? The main oven works well, including the self-clean feature. All burners work, but the Sensi-temp burner is wobbly. There are two heating elements in the smaller oven, the top one works but the bottom one does not. Thank you for any info you can provide!
That's a beautiful stove.
The thermostatically controlled burners prior to induction were all (at least in my experience and that of everyone I know, whether in the US or Europe) next door to useless. At best.
I'd not worry about it. The bottom heating element is not going to be too hard to find.
I'm too far away, but, gosh - it sure is pretty.
The thermostatically controlled burners prior to induction were all (at least in my experience and that of everyone I know, whether in the US or Europe) next door to useless. At best.
I'd not worry about it. The bottom heating element is not going to be too hard to find.
I'm too far away, but, gosh - it sure is pretty.
This link will take you to GE's site showing the chart to date your range. The first two letters in the Serial number designates the month and year of manufacture.
http://products.geappliances.com/appliance/gea-support-search-content?contentId=16195
http://products.geappliances.com/appliance/gea-support-search-content?contentId=16195
GE Sensi-Temp Burner
Was one of the best features of these great ranges, the only time we found customers that did not like this feature was when people had no mechanical sense and never read how to use it.
You could not only cook almost anything with just one initial setting of the dial including baking a cake or even baking things like potatoes in a regular sauce pan with out a lid or water in the pan.
Your element that is not sitting level is easy to fix, it looks like the drip pan is sitting on the trim ring [ it is supposed to sit in the opening of the white cook-top and then the chrome ring sits above ] Also if the burner does not drop all the way to a level position the pivot stop needs a drop of oil.
John L.
Was one of the best features of these great ranges, the only time we found customers that did not like this feature was when people had no mechanical sense and never read how to use it.
You could not only cook almost anything with just one initial setting of the dial including baking a cake or even baking things like potatoes in a regular sauce pan with out a lid or water in the pan.
Your element that is not sitting level is easy to fix, it looks like the drip pan is sitting on the trim ring [ it is supposed to sit in the opening of the white cook-top and then the chrome ring sits above ] Also if the burner does not drop all the way to a level position the pivot stop needs a drop of oil.
John L.
John,
I don't question that the sensi-temp under ideal conditions worked well. At least when the entire system was running.
Just - the restrictions were considerable as to material, size, etc.
I'm old enough to have used many variations on the system, here and in Europe and, well - let's be fair here - given that it's not the least bit unusual for a regular burner/control to run without adjustment or repair for over 50 years, how long does one get from a temperature controlled unit before there's this, that or the other major problem? Two years? Five? It sure as heck isn't long, not compared to how the indirect controls last.
I don't question that the sensi-temp under ideal conditions worked well. At least when the entire system was running.
Just - the restrictions were considerable as to material, size, etc.
I'm old enough to have used many variations on the system, here and in Europe and, well - let's be fair here - given that it's not the least bit unusual for a regular burner/control to run without adjustment or repair for over 50 years, how long does one get from a temperature controlled unit before there's this, that or the other major problem? Two years? Five? It sure as heck isn't long, not compared to how the indirect controls last.
GE Sensi-Temp Burners
Do not have to be used under ideal conditions, I use glass and cast-iron cook ware on mine, and they are actually more durable than non heat controlled elements, in fact I have NEVER seen a bad element on a GE ST element, because it is hard to abuse a heat controlled element the elements are not stressed and never burn out and warp.
The hydraulic controlled elements that were used on European and many US electric and GAS ranges alike almost never failed in the life of a range, I have no idea of where this 3-5 year life crap comes from Keven but they haven't even built many of the controlled elements we are talking about since the 70s and into the 80s and I never saw any that only lasted 3-5 years, I don't know where you come up with this crap.
John L.
Do not have to be used under ideal conditions, I use glass and cast-iron cook ware on mine, and they are actually more durable than non heat controlled elements, in fact I have NEVER seen a bad element on a GE ST element, because it is hard to abuse a heat controlled element the elements are not stressed and never burn out and warp.
The hydraulic controlled elements that were used on European and many US electric and GAS ranges alike almost never failed in the life of a range, I have no idea of where this 3-5 year life crap comes from Keven but they haven't even built many of the controlled elements we are talking about since the 70s and into the 80s and I never saw any that only lasted 3-5 years, I don't know where you come up with this crap.
John L.
speedqueen
Well-known member
I believe there was a mention of using an ohm meter across the sensor and that it should read about 17.5 ohms. With that info, I am sure John(combo52), our resident expert, could help.
