If Able To You Rinse Laundry In Warm Water?

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When my buddy does laundry over here (usually in the Neptune FL), he always selects a warm rinse.  I never do.  It has been stated here that cold water knocks down suds, so I figure a cold rinse is more effective.

 

I make an exception when I'm using the 712 instead of the Neptune.  With the 712 I use a warm rinse just so the tub won't take forever to fill.  I have the cold tap turned down so the "Warm" setting on the 712 will actually provide warm water as opposed to cool, which is what I get if I have the cold tap wide open.
 
My 2017 9-Series Speed Queen doesn't offer a warm rinse, but about four times a year I reset the cycle after the first spin, fill it with warm water, then choose the Rinse & Spin cycle. Handling the load as one transfers it to the dryer is very pleasant.

Cold water is refrigerator-cold during the winter here on the Minnesota prairie, but I've not really noticed a decrease in rinsing performance. Truth be told, I just can't be arsed to reset the controls. If the option was available at the press of a pad, I would probably rinse in warm out of nostalgia for the 1960 Model 80 Kenmore, which defaulted to a warm rinse for all the most-used cycles.
 
It's a mix here, mostly depends on which machine I use.  Several have a cold rinse option (66 Inglis, 64 GE, 59 Frigidaire, 58 Dominion, 58 Duomatic, 57 GE) and I admit that I do tend to use the option.  Several machines have a default cold rinse as I had to replace a wonky thermostatic water valve with a modern one.  One machine, though, the 56 GE Combo has an interesting rinse option for the last rinse before going into the dry portion of the cycle - hot or warm.  It really makes a difference to the drying time and it's a sure way to get fluffy, soft towels!!
 
Everything gets rinsed in 75F to 80F water, depending on if the tank is firing. Some call that cool; some call that warm, but it is not tap cold which is currently around 50F and it is cooler than the 100F that old water valves like on Maytags supplied for a warm rinse. I used the example of Maytag here because the owner's manual gave that temperature when it mentioned warm water.
 
 
Not warm as such.  I may rarely do a cool rinse (vs. full-cold) on the three machines connected to a bathtub faucet by which I can control the flow mix, which isn't possible on the machine in the utility/laundry room on separate hot/cold taps.
 
Rinse in warm? Hell Yeah!!

My temper valve is adjusted for 85F cold. Temp of the water heater is 162F. Combine those two and warm becomes a rock solid 120F.

 

All cold is washed, spray rinsed, and deep rinsed in 85F.

 

All warm is washed, spray rinsed, and deep rinsed in 120F.

 

Hot is 160F, spray rinsed, and deep rinsed in 120F.
 
At this season in Michigan I wish for an ATC washing machine--70 series from the mid 90s only has tap cold rinses.

I'll every so often in a big white load (particularly when I'm bleaching) fill a final rinse with warm then advance to the last rinse/spin.

I did just clean out the hot fill valve of the water heater gravel (lol) so it's got a faster hot flow.
 
Do none of you have “nice” clothes?
To each their own, and I certainly don’t follow all the paranoid care tags emploring only cold washes, low drys.
But there’s no way in hell I’m washing my nice knit sweaters, dark colored work shirts and deep dark jeans and pants in hot or warm water.
That’s the expressway to frumpy faded-town.
Warm/hot is for sheets/towels, lights, whites, and undies.
That’s my 8¢ (cuz inflation n’ all).
 
My current SQ top loader (AWN432) doesn't offer a warm rinse option and with tap cold temps here in New England winters, I will often go back to the machine to set the dial for warm wash, fill the machine and advance the timer to the rinse agitation. Of course, warm at tap temperatures at this time of year gives you cool to room temp water. That is still better than ice cold. And it does make a difference in drying. The other issue I have with my SQ is that the first spin in the "heavy duty" cycle is slower than the final rinse spin. I don't understand the advantage of that since part of good rinsing is extraction. The only other cycle option I have is "Eco" which doesn't do a deep rinse - just several spray rinses at a slow spin - then, pauses and begins final spin at full speed. I often wondered why this is so (maybe has something to do with the cycle being named "heavy duty/permanent press"), but never posed the question here to our experts.

Didn't mean to hijack the thread - but since we are discussing rinsing, I realize how much this annoys me.
 
That is the one thing about living here in FL is that our cold water temps at this time of year is in the mid 60's and in the summer in the mid 70's to 80F....so a cold rinse here isn't stinging to the hands like they were when we lived in Mass. With the SQ top loader that I had, rinsing in the winter was a brutal affair for my hands. Taking ice cold laundry out of the washer got to be a tad much and on occasion I would just reset the timer to the wash cycle to give a 2nd rinse to the load. on warm..made a world of difference.
The Whirlpool top loader that I had in Maine used to have a warm rinse setting, but, that was just the final spray rinse in the final spin was warm...not the deep rinse on that direct drive washer. That i could live with.
 
When I still did my own laundry..

I always used a warm rinse in winter!

 

I might use a cold spray rinse for thee first spray, but always warm deep rinse!  Ohio water is cold in winter.

 

Lawrence/Maytagbear
 
RE: Reply 13 & Reply 9

#13:When putting a tempering valve into your water system, even when it is connected to the hot and cold water faucets near your machines, is imperative that you attach back flow preventer valves on both the hot and cold sides of the tempering valve and then attach the connecting hoses to the back flow preventer valves then mount the tempering valve so that it is level so that the back flow preventer valves function properly. If you do not do this, you run the risk of water moving through the valve and your water heater emptying through the cold line.

#9:What is your argument? You can wash and rinse fine clothing in cool water at about 70-75F. Our 58 Lady had two additional temperatures on the Wash Temperature selector. One of them was Cool which provided cool water for the wash and rinse That is a lot different than tap cold, tap hot or mixed warm.
 
Nope:

I always use a hot wash, (Water heater set to 140f/60c) or warm for delicate items. In the SQ FL the first rinse is always warm or cool due to the heat from the wash. While this is not detrimental to rinse performance I believe that cold rinses are equally effective to warm unless dealing with greasy loads such as foodservice laundry where warm water may help remove residual grease therefore helping to prevent a dryer fire. However if such items are properly pre-soaked and washed in hot water and good detergent this should not be a problem.
WK78
 

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