defoedude
Well-known member
Water is escaping from the corner of the evaporation channel and is it because the seal is not long enough? It does fill to where the overflow slightly bobs and I hear a click
Impulse KitchenAid KDS58 buy needs help!
- Thread starter defoedude
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beekeyknee
Well-known member
Alex,
Sorry I haven't checked the thread for a long time. Try some closed cell weather strip in that corner so when the door closes it will smash against it and create a seal.
Sorry I haven't checked the thread for a long time. Try some closed cell weather strip in that corner so when the door closes it will smash against it and create a seal.
Alex, is the water dripping now a big flood or is a small amount? It sounds like the water level is correct in the tank for a full-charge fill. Remove the upper colored panel of the door and check to see if the detergent dispenser or rinse aid dispenser are leaking around their seals on the porcelain door. The other likely leaky culprit is the o-rings in the dispenser itself that seal the shafts of the covers.
defoedude
Well-known member
Greg, it's small amounts although I ran it through another cycle and it was maybe a puddle the size of a coaster
stevet
Well-known member
Not to scare you...But
Alex,
Take a look at the left corner of the tub and make sure that the seam has not opened up at all and may be where the leak is coming from. I have seen machines where there is a small separation in the weld and leaks can develop. If so, some waterproof epoxy will work fine on the outside of the tank.
Also, did you do as Greg suggested and remove the door panel to see if there are any leaks coming from those components?
Also, check the top of the door as well when the machine is running and see if any water is sneaking past the top door seal. It will run down the side of the door and can give you the leak or drips you have going on as well. That is an easy fix as well. The door latch just needs to be shimmed out to make it close tighter.
Keep us posted.
Steve
Alex,
Take a look at the left corner of the tub and make sure that the seam has not opened up at all and may be where the leak is coming from. I have seen machines where there is a small separation in the weld and leaks can develop. If so, some waterproof epoxy will work fine on the outside of the tank.
Also, did you do as Greg suggested and remove the door panel to see if there are any leaks coming from those components?
Also, check the top of the door as well when the machine is running and see if any water is sneaking past the top door seal. It will run down the side of the door and can give you the leak or drips you have going on as well. That is an easy fix as well. The door latch just needs to be shimmed out to make it close tighter.
Keep us posted.
Steve
Tom, WP always had water circulating while water was heating. KA was still Hobart when the 19 series came out, as we all know. I think after WP acquired KA, they didn't want to upset the apple cart too much, along with the limits of our electrical system and 120v power, ad continued the static water heating design until the 23 series. I always thought that wa so stupid of KA to not have water circulating while water was also heating. One of the reasons why I wouldn't buy a KA.
defoedude
Well-known member
I ran another cycle with the front panel off and the leaks are intermittent splashes coming from the hinge pin area - is it cause of the lower door seal not fully extending to the sides of the tank or am I needing a new overall tank gasket?
beekeyknee
Well-known member
Alex,
I've got a 20 (60) and the bottom of the door looks pretty much the same. It has the galvanized strip across the front like yours and the brass colored channel with the black rubber strip. The only thing mine has on the bottom of the door between the porcelain and the inner door is a white plastic baffle and the little black things I showed you on up the thread. I fixed a 21 for Tom Gasko with strips of Sugru on the bottom front of the tank in the corners, like I explained above. It was dripping the tiniest amount; maybe because I worked on the water valve with a needle to let in a bit more water. Mine doesn't have that split blue channel like you show in post #1. That's all I know. Other KitchenAid folks will have to comment if they know. I haven't worked on an 18, but if you can make it work anyway you can w/o other parts, go for it.
B.
I've got a 20 (60) and the bottom of the door looks pretty much the same. It has the galvanized strip across the front like yours and the brass colored channel with the black rubber strip. The only thing mine has on the bottom of the door between the porcelain and the inner door is a white plastic baffle and the little black things I showed you on up the thread. I fixed a 21 for Tom Gasko with strips of Sugru on the bottom front of the tank in the corners, like I explained above. It was dripping the tiniest amount; maybe because I worked on the water valve with a needle to let in a bit more water. Mine doesn't have that split blue channel like you show in post #1. That's all I know. Other KitchenAid folks will have to comment if they know. I haven't worked on an 18, but if you can make it work anyway you can w/o other parts, go for it.
B.
Water inlet valve repairs
The reason inlet valves pass less water as they age is because the valve diaphragm wears out. It generally does little good to take the valves apart play with the flow washers clean the screens etc. you're just wasting your time it's better to replace the valve. These valves are still available for these KA DWs you will get much better and more consistent performance if you just replace the valve.
You can however Rebuild the inlet valve if you want to replace the valve diaphragm. Valve diaphragms are some times available from parts distributors you can also buy a less expensive washing machine in let valve and take the parts out of it to use for the dishwasher valve.
The reason inlet valves pass less water as they age is because the valve diaphragm wears out. It generally does little good to take the valves apart play with the flow washers clean the screens etc. you're just wasting your time it's better to replace the valve. These valves are still available for these KA DWs you will get much better and more consistent performance if you just replace the valve.
You can however Rebuild the inlet valve if you want to replace the valve diaphragm. Valve diaphragms are some times available from parts distributors you can also buy a less expensive washing machine in let valve and take the parts out of it to use for the dishwasher valve.
defoedude
Well-known member
I got it fixed up at last!
I think I put the lower door seal strip in upside down - I looked at how it was laid out in the repair manual and it wasn't in the position as pictured, so I put it back in the correct way and put some auto/marine weatherstripping on the sides of the tank to not leave a gap/secure the lower seal in place - no more leaks!
I think I put the lower door seal strip in upside down - I looked at how it was laid out in the repair manual and it wasn't in the position as pictured, so I put it back in the correct way and put some auto/marine weatherstripping on the sides of the tank to not leave a gap/secure the lower seal in place - no more leaks!
