In-Place Maytag Helical Transmission Servicing?

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A quick update for this thread:
Dad isn't one to give up easily. If something can be repaired, he will find a way to do so!

Here is the damaged pitman gear, back from the precision machine shop, where they built it back up with TIG welding, then ground the new tooth to match the profile of the other teeth.

So this transmission will live another day! The only thing we need now is a replacement for the pin that holds the gear onto the agitator shaft - Maytag part number 2-10183, apparently NLA for quite some time as we can't find one anywhere. Anyone happen to have one sitting on a dusty shelf somewhere?

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Thanks Jason, much appreciated! We will see how things go with this rebuild, and if we get stuck, I'll definitely let you know.
Do you have any other parts or machines available? I might need some cabinet parts for my A408 at some point in the future...
 
A quick update since I'm behind on all of my machine threads!
This washer has been back together and running smoothly for several months now.

Since the agitator shaft gumming up was what killed this transmission, we had no choice but to press out the pin on the drive gear and remove the shaft to clean it. The general advice is to not attempt this on a working transmission, and after doing it ourselves, I completely understand why. That groove pin is in there incredibly tight, and the force required to drive it out in our case fractured the pin.

To our surprise, that groove pin is/was one of the hardest to find replacement parts for this project. Nobody had them, and it took weeks to locate one. The seller had two, we bought both. Upon reinstalling, the first replacement pin broke from the force. The second one we chucked in the drill press, and filed it down a bit before installing, and it still took an incredible amount of force to reinstall. It's not going anywhere. We got very lucky there.

Our second stroke of luck was finding a NOS agitator shaft. I'd been searching for one for months, they just hadn't come up, nor has one been available since. Our old shaft could have been re-used with some work, which we were prepared to do, but this find simplified things considerably. A *great* repair job on a shaft can be seen at this thread, by user 'mit634'
https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?77633

Lastly, my mother located what might have been the last available NOS pitman transmission gear set on the planet, and after a long journey from Australia, they arrived. The timing was such that all of this happened while the original gears were still in the machine shop, so they were purchased to have as a backup plan in case the originals were unrepairable. In the end, it is the new set that made it back into the transmission, with the repaired gears being set aside as spares. The NOS set had 30-40 years of "shelf wear", banging around from transport and their long journey across the globe, so a few dings on the teeth were filed down to avoid any uneven wear once put into service.

Everything else was relatively uneventful. Upon reassembly, we counted teeth and re-oriented the agitator shaft gear so that the broken tooth was away from the segment gear, and would never see service since the agitator doesn't complete a full rotation. (This is easily verified by looking at the wear patterns on the gear from prior use.)

Mom says her A308 now starts quicker and runs smoother than it ever has.
Ready for the next 40 years!
 
Here is a photo of the old and new agitator shafts. The old shaft had been lightly cleaned at this point, but not completely. The crud on the lower section of the shaft, between the two bushings, is what had prevented the shaft from turning freely.

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The cleaned up transmission lower case, and the tool we fashioned to extract the old O-ring. I needed something small diameter and stiff, and this wire with the loop came out of a "spray gun cleaning kit", which we had bought for the various sized bottle brushes it contained. A quick bend in the end, and it was perfect.

Also visible is the scoring underneath the gears, likely the result from having several broken-off gear teeth floating around.

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... and finally the new gears assembled in the case, with all of their bushing surfaces oiled before assembly.

These are clearly newer gears than what came out, and instead of being cast and machined, they appear to have been formed by a die pressed powdered metal process.

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Update: This one ended up coming back apart. Unfortunately, after a few years of use, it developed an oil leak from the bottom.

We couldn't find anything obviously wrong. Dad had expected to see a split or displaced lower o-ring, but it was where it should be, and looked fine and with no visible wear. Everything up top looked fine too, and there were no signs of water intrusion in the oil.

So we compared the old o-ring to the new one we had for the reassembly, only to find that they were fractionally different sizes (new one being larger). Both are OEM parts, and you would never notice anything different if you didn't have both in your hand at the same time.

Everything is reassembled, and no leaks with the new o-ring, so it seems like this is a tolerance issue. Has anyone seen anything like this before?

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I have a few o-rings from different eras and found slightly different tolerances, especially after Whirlpool took over. Never had one leak yet though. I think one of the biggest issues is making sure there's plenty of oil around the lower shaft where the o-ring rides or the o-ring burns up and prematurely wears out.

Make sure you liberally oil the o-ring as well as the lower shaft, insert the lower shaft from underneath the housing (the manual recommends from the top) and gently twist the the shaft once it meets the oring with some resistance while still pushing upwards. Raise the shaft up higher than it would be in the installed position and pool some transmission oil around it. Gently and slowly work the shaft up and down (good lord this is getting kinky) until you feel less resistance from the oil working its way down the shaft and around o-ring. The resistance will noticeably become decreased.

I have been contemplating for years now if grease would be a better substitute for longevity sake but haven't tried it yet.
 
Lower Oil Seals On MT Transmissions

There is no reason to worry about oiling the lower seal, just put a few drops of oil on it when assembling the transmission because as soon as it starts running the outer tube fills with oil from the gear case., this is why it leaks when the O ring fails. [ using grease on the O ring will not make any difference because it will be flooded with oil after one wash load anyway ]

 

The problem is that the WP supplied parts for these machines can not really be called OEM parts any longer.

 

Helical drive washer have been out of production for over 15 years and WP does not care if these machines continue to work or not.

 

John L.
 
Given the oil that leaked out the bottom, this o-ring definitely had enough lubrication. It also seems to have essentially zero wear - After almost three years of use, the parting line from the original molding process is still visible on both the outer and inner surfaces of the o-ring. We didn't find a single nick anywhere on it, so our concern that it may have been damaged during assembly was also not the issue. It's a mystery.

>> Helical drive washer have been out of production for over 15 years
>> and WP does not care if these machines continue to work or not.

That unfortunately appears to be the case...
 

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