Induction bargain

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I'd still like to eventually replace my 1984 Hotpoint slide-in coil range with induction.  But I'm waiting for one with double ovens.  Not only do I want the technology for the attributes stated above--more flexible and responsive than gas; cooler cooking; ease of keeping clean.  There's also the safety aspect of the hob shutting off if pan is removed as well as the surface not staying as hot due to not a lengthy cool down from intense heat required for cooking--i.e. radiant cooktops.  I've been using a tea kettle recently to heat water for tea and am always mindful, and a bit apprehensive, with the burner being so hot after I finish boiling the water.  Especially as I've become more wobbly on my feet.  I am concerned about reliability and cost of repair--saw something on another forum earlier this week about a 5 y/o Elux induction range having a major part failure and very expensive to repair.  I know WP is having major issues with bringing their new induction ranges to market.  They keep being delayed (for a year now) for both Jenn Air and KA brand labels.  I think the WP double oven range has been pulled from the market to have issues resolved too.  I still wish GE would come out with a double oven free-standing version.  Optimally, I'd love to see them come out with an induction version of their double-oven slide in profile radiant range.  I'm not sure how well my Revere pans would work on a radiant surface.  I remember at Ros' house in 2006 or 2007, watching his 6 qt. stock pot waltz across the cook top gradually.  Toggles had to kind of keep a hold on it while he was doing all his wonderful meal preparation. 
 
*jealous*

I am trying to save up on a new induction range... I've been using induction tops for a while... I had two frigidaires but i traded them for some meat from a buddy running a new cafe. Now I've got two farberware ones from walmart that are going back as soon as I find the slip.....

I wished I had more 240 outlets in my kitchen so I could just get a unit like this....

I hate 120v power..... Especially with my space heater in my garage... $$$

Congrats on the find!
 
I've got four counter units. Two NuWave PIC's that I use daily, despite melting a huge hole in the bottom of one when I stupidly turned on the range burner it was sitting on. Still works great just not so level anymore!
I've got a Fagor and a Boss in boxes that were to good a deal to pass up. Can't wait to get a real induction range.
 
Pardon the slight side question...

"The gas cooktop will stay under the guest bed for the time being. It will probably go to a thriftstore in the end."

Is this gas cooktop designed to be portable? Anyone could connect or disconnect it as needed?

Jim
 
field detection

Has anyone at this site investigated the type of field these induction cooktops put out, using a field detector? I'm going to google that and find out what the research says. (not to rain on any ones parade, just interested in finding out) Les.
 
There are more losses in stepping down to 120V power.Note that many other countries don't use it.And a 14 Ga cable will convey 1800W at 120V now the same cable carrying 15A at 240V---3600W!Now up to 13.8Kv-typical primary voltage on most dist transformers can carry about 50Kw!!!Think about it!
 
The possibilities of a cable are not the issue here. 1800 Watts on 120V and 1800 Watts on 230V (as we have here) is still 1800 Watts. You will not notice a difference in performance.

I think we would call it a freestanding cooktop. Here's a picture of it on top of the dishwasher. At the right of the pots on top of it you can see the gas valve. You can also see it in the first picture I posted.

My single burner had 1600 Watts, it was enough for most cooking jobs I do. But then again I live alone and rarely host more than one guest.

I noticed something odd with the new cooktop. On lower power settings it turns on and off, like most microwaves. My single burner regulated the power, so low heat was constant. For slow simmering I might use the single burner unit, or perhaps I get used to it. The temperature settings seem a bit more steady, but using that has a learning curve, the temperature settings are not exactly the temperatures in the pots.

I googled induction and 1909 and found Pete's picture here:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Induction_cooking

Interesting reading stuff! Seems like Frigidaire was early with demonstration models!

foraloysius++12-29-2015-08-52-25.jpg
 
Combo52...

having 240 as main voltage vs 120 you have ability for more output... right?

having a 120 heater trying to heat a two car garage with 12-14' ceilings takes a lot of time and energy....

How would a 240v heater not be the better solution?

And as far as my comments, I am saying I like the 240 version of the appliances better... They don't have the limitations the 120 versions have.

A 240v miele profi dishwasher can have a 25 minute cycle vs a 57 minute cycle on 120v. Stuff like that. Like finding a dual burner induction cooktop and having more than 1500w to each element.
 
Every 120 Volt space heater I've ever seen has been limited to 1500 watts, which equates to approximately 5,000 BTU's. Theoretically, put that on 240 volts and you double the wattage and the BTU's.

Having 240 volts available vs 120 does effectively make better use of the existing wiring already in place, since you're essentially "pushing more juice through it" by increasing the voltage. The concept is just like with indoor plumbing, the higher the pressure, the more volume you can push through and therefore technically use a smaller pipe. With lower pressure you need a larger pipe to get the same volume as that smaller pipe with higher pressure.

Once you get into the 240 category with space heaters I think the wattage options are quite flexible since you can get one requiring anywhere from a 15 amp 240 volt circuit all the way up to 50 amps (I'm guessing). So add a second space heater to the garage (on a different circuit) and you'll basically get the same results as if you had a single 240 volt 3,000 watt space heater.
 
Gusherb hit the issue just right-increase the voltage--and you can convey MORE power over the same guage wire.That is why your homes dist transformer may be fed with a peice of 12-14 ga bare wire from the overhead line.The transformer primary is like only 6A even if you have your transformer fully loaded.Now an Opposite extreme-filament wiring for a transmitter tube-say the tube filament draws 15A@ 12V-the 14G cable will be fine here-but look how much power in this case the lead will convey!If you go above that with like 12V the wire will overheat!.Getting rid of the 120V would be a good energy and efficiency move!But doubt this will happen in the US.Your major appliances could run from like 480V and yes,we can convey more energy over the same guage cables as opposed to 240V in major equipment.Also motors could run more efficiently and draw less of a start surge.For industrial customers-running large motors on the highest voltages available to them gives the best efficiency!It is becoming more common to see industrial motors 200Hp and over running from 2500,4160,even 13.8Kv.
 
Dos And Don't s Of Using A Pressure Cooker On Induction

This piece of writing was stupid, it was written by someone that does not understand how things work.

 

In my experience of cooking for more than 30 YEARS with pressure cookers on induction cooktops I have NEVER had any difficulties or faced any learning curve in doing so, and just the opposite is actually true, it is much easier to use a PC on an induction CT period.
 
A couple of comments

Re Reply#26, I have often wondered about stray fields from Induction cookers. Are they safe with Pacemakers??

Re Reply#9 Our (U.K.) energy (Electricity and Gas) infrastructure is also crumbling. I have no idea how it is still standing up to the strain. There has been no serious investment for decades!! Hence the companies now wanting to implement 'Time Of Use' billing to reduce the demand peaks. This only affecting the poor, of course... ;-)

All best

Dave T
 
Pacemakers

From the manual

WARNING
The magnetic fields generated during operation of the
appliance may lead to adverse effects.
Adhere to the following safety instructions:
► People with elevated electrical sensitivity should not remain
in the immediate vicinity of the appliance for longer than is
necessary.
► If in any doubt, people with pacemakers or implanted
medication pumps should consult their doctor about the
harmlessness of using the appliance.
► Do not place any magnetisable objects, e.g. credit cards,
data carriers or cassettes on or in the immediate vicinity of
the appliance.
► Place cooking utensils in the middle of the hob, so that the
base of the pot covers as much of the electromagnetic field
as possible.
► Do not remove any coverings on the appliance.
 

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