Insane Asko Final Spin

[launderess]

Believe Asko advertised 1800 rpm for final spin in some machines awhile back. This would have been during period when European washing machines seemed engaged in an arms race over final spin speeds. My AEG Lavamat has 1800 rpm for final spin (selectable), but one rarely bothers. Later built AEG/Electrolux toplader has only 1200 rpm max final spin.

 

[foraloysius]

1600rpm is still the max for most brands on the European market. I believe the extra 200rpm doesn’t do a lot more.

Small correction, AEG/Electrolux has models with 1300 and 1500rpm on the market for quite a while now. But perhaps not in every country.

 

[logixx]

Asko and Gorenje, of all brands, also had 2,000 rpm machines in their line-up.

 

[henene4]

Drum size plays a role as well.
But I think all the 2000rpm and 1800rpm machines quoted 42% residual moisture.

1600rpm is 44% roughly.
1400rpm is 50%.
So going from 1400 to 1600 saves about 10% in the dryer. Going up from 1600 to a higher level another 4-5%.
So overall about 15%.

 

[me]

As I recall centrifugal force depends on the square of the RPM, so that's the most significant factor. However the rule of diminishing returns applies.

I did once think about getting a spin dryer to remove some extra water and save electric drying. I figured I could use the slow spin on the washer which would also reduce wear on its shaft seal and bearings.

eg according to this video he gets an extra cupful of water out of a load in a 2800RPM spinner, vs the 1400RPM spin on their washing machine.



My current machine Zanussi (electrolux) is a 1400 spin model, but actually spins at 1350RPM, according to diagnostic mode.

Here's residual moisture vs rpm from a 2006 Electrolux manual:

 

[launderess]

"Small correction, AEG/Electrolux has models with 1300 and 1500rpm on the market for quite a while now. But perhaps not in every country."

When one stated AEG/Electrolux toplader had max spin of 1200 rpms was referring to our unit not making a blanket statement.

Regarding extraction and residual moisture retention there are a few schools of thought.

Ever since power extractors (as separate units) came along for commercial laundries a debate arose about how long or much things should be spun dry. Some workers regardless of instruction would leave things until basically no water was coming out of spigot. At end of that what one had was a packed solid mass of washing that often had creases no amount of ironing or tumble drying would remove. Only solution was to send things back to washers for a rinse or two then start over again.

After extensive testing it was determined for most loads of sturdy fabrics extraction should take place only until water coming out of spigot went from steady stream to drops.


Generally yes, one achieves biggest bang for buck going from 400, 800 or say 900 rpms to 1200 or 1400. But one has to match extraction speed and duration to what's being washed. What's good for say load of terry bath linen may cause issues with say percale bed linen or denim jeans.

Other worry is whether or not washing machine in question has build quality to withstand high to super elevated spin speeds.

https://bandctech.com/commercial-la...oisture-retention-in-your-commercial-laundry/

https://www.washerhelp.co.uk/forums/topic/156-are-washing-machine-spin-speeds-a-con/

https://www.hotpoint.co.uk/blog/buy...ths surrounding,being safe for sturdy fabrics.

 

[askolover]

ASKÖ once had a 2000 rpm spin. I almost bought one but then I fixed my own ASKÖ.

 

[henene4]

Keep in mind most Miele machines with an FU motor up until the W1 (think Softtronics, Navitronics, EU W1xxx/W4xxx and the like) could be reprogrammed up to 2000rpm.

The W1 my (now ex) partner had was also allowing 1800rpm in the programming menu.