Interesting Hotpoint Stove

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This is a MUSEUM piece, and nothing more

Those two open coils (as opposed to the third Calrod element) are DEADLY. If a person touched the coil with a metal spoon, and touched a ground....

Chances are that the oven and broil element are open as well.

I have seen other 3 element electrics, and they were all 20 inch ranges, like this one.

Yes, it does have charm, but so does the oleander plant!

Lawrence/Maytagbear
 
That is similar to the small Lectro Host ranges that were originally in the Greenbelt homes in the 1930s. L & H stood for Lindeman and Hoverson, stove makers in Milwaukee, I think. Their Thermador ranges were much more familiar in later years.

Lawrence, I have used open coil surface units and bake and broil units and have not managed to touch a spoon to the live wires in the firebrick bases. I have read about a small girl who was electrocuted when she licked a toaster, but actually have never read about anyone suddenly going from cooking on an open coil element in their kitchen, to standing at the pearly gates with frizzy hair and spoon in hand. I know that European safety standards would not allow the open coil elements and they were stuck with those horrible cast iron solid elements. We here soon went from the open coils to the sealed rod element, invented by Hotpoint where it was given the name Calrod in the late 20s. Other manufacturers soon introduced their versions of the sealed rod heating element.
 
Ancient ranges

"Lawrence, I have used open coil surface units and bake and broil units and have not managed to touch a spoon to the live wires in the firebrick bases"

I think I would definately use only Pyrex or Corning pots on these type of elements. But even then, what happens when things boil over?

"Is the plug on the cord and american one?

It just looks like it has two angled prongs and a ground? "

I was wondering about that, too. It's not the standard 3 or 4 prong 50 amp range cord we're used to nowadays
 
The plug is an ancient heavy duty 230 volt plug designed for an obsolete outlet. The oven controls are pretty neat, even if not thermostatic. The owner's manual gave very detailed instructions about which unit needs to be at which setting depending on how full the oven is and what you are cooking. A bit of this carried over into Hotpoint and GE ranges at least through the 70s that had the Time Bake setting. On Bake, the oven used the 3000 watt bake element and 750 watts of the 3000 watt broiler element (1/4th wattage because this element was switched to just 110 volts)to ensure browning, but on Time Bake the oven was heated only with the bottom element. This was to avoid overbrowning since the food was in the oven during the preheat on Time Bake.

Lawrence, the resistance coils were not flush with the top of the ceramic channels so no heat was transferred by direct conduction from the live nickel-chrome wires, but by radiation and some convection. Pans did not make contact with the coils. The amount of heat that the ceramic blocks absorbed is amazing. When we traveled wth my father during the summer, we had a two burner hot plate. One element was 1000 watts, on or off and the other was 500 watts on or off. We soon found out that both could not be switched on at the same time or the motel room would go dark. But back to the elements. This was before we had an electric coffee maker. Mom would put the percolator on the 1000 watt element and when it started perking, she would shut off the element. Enough heat was stored in the ceramic block to perk the coffee to perfection, maybe 8 to 10 minutes. I guess she had plenty of experience with these elements in her earlier days of studying home economics in high school and college. It is interesting that you mention using Pyrex and Corning Ware for these elements. It was when these elements began to be replaced by the sealed rod type that Pyrex put a note in with each piece of Flameware stating that the wire grid had to be used between Flameware and the new high speed electric elements.
 

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