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washerman

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Hello,

I am proud to announce that, after lurking here for over a year, I have acquired my first vintage appliances: a matched avocado twin-tub set!
Yea, I know it is another A50, but it is mine!

A question: it seems to have trouble separating the water between the tubs. Wash water percolates into the spinner and unless the wash water is drained, the spinner can never finish pumping and rev up. I would imagine that the issue is somewhere in the wash/spin drain control. Any ideas what I should look for?

I will get into the dryer later tonight or tomorrow.

washerman++4-26-2013-18-58-3.jpg
 
 

 

Welcome to the non-lurker part of the AW world
smiley-tongue-out.gif
 and congrats on your A50 pair!  YAY!

 

The problem is the diverter valve.   The knob on the left controls the valve and determines which tub will drain.   You will have to remove the rear panel to access it.  

 

Double check that the valve is moving when the knob is turned (it's connected via a cable).    It's may be a good idea to disconnect the hoses and remove the valve to inspect the flapper inside it.   Overtime the "rod or lever" inside, corrodes because it's made of pot metal.    Verify the flapper moves freely and completely.

 

I hope this helps!

Kevin
 
Welcome!

You say that it's another A50 like that's a bad thing... There isn't much if anything on the market that will spin out a load of jeans like an A50. I agree with Kevin. I was thinking that there is an issue with the diverter valve. Sometimes ugly, sometimes blessedly simple. Well, you got your first vintage set so now is the time to make them yours by tearing into them. Actually relatively simple to work on. A good set to cut your teeth on! Remember, we're always here for advise if not sympathy...

RCD
 
the diverter is more like a stopper for the wash side, it open/close to allow water to enter the drain line from the spinner side flow into the pump...

the flow or hose from the spinner is direct to the pump, this diverter is a "T" that is in place between the spinner and pump, that when open allows water from the wash tub to drain, as needed...

every twintub is a little different per setup, but they all perform within the same function...

these really are fun machines....
 
Need new diverter valve

Hi all,

It has been interesting to work on this....I realized that I let my socket set go in a move about four years ago....(sigh) Fortunately, nearly all of the screws are the same size, so I went and purchased one. I will tape it inside when this is all done.

Yes, the diverter is behind the front pane. I need a new one-the metal strip that holds the rubber sealer "ball" is broken, so the two tanks function as one.

Anyone know where I could find a diverter valve? Are they still available? Is there a "AW recommended" place online?

I have attached a pic of the valve on its stand....

PS I will definitely have to buy a new rachet set...the screws holding the valve to the stand will come out no other way...

washerman++4-27-2013-13-38-17.jpg
 
 

 

It's my understanding that the diverter valve as a complete assemply is N.L.A. (but don't quote me).   The rubber "flapper valve" inside can still be had, though I don't know the part number.   I know a couple others here have that info and will hopefully chime in.

 

BTW, what is the condition of the wash-impeller belt?

 

Best of luck!

Kevin
 
Chiming in... Diaphragm and arm assy...

Part #204316 is still currently available for about $25 depending on where you shop. Feels good getting your hands dirty, doesn't it? LOL!

RCD

redcarpetdrew++4-27-2013-16-13-57.jpg
 
that works how?

Thank you R.C.Drew! May I ask-so the screws holding it to its stand also allow you to remove the innards once they are gone? It would be great if that is all I have to buy.....

And about the dryer....well, I found out the hard way that the back panel holds the whole thing together.....I caught it before it completely came apart and put it back together. It runs, but there seems to be an area of resistance in the same spot each revolution. You can see on the back bearing that the rotation has a hump in the same spot. I am not keen to take it apart again, but if you think I should, I will.

In addition, the label says that it draws 18 Amps (!!!!) I live in a house with wiring dating to the early 1940's. I am not comfortable with drawing that kind of current for an hour or more continuously. So I may just pack it away for now and try again when I move the next time.
 
Diverter Valve

Welcome to the wonderful world of twin tub washing! You look to have a very nice set there in Avocado no less. This diverter as Andy said is still readily available, finding one locally I found can be hard. Parts dealers here have been to crap for me though. For what it's worth, it's also the same valve that Maytag used on Suds Saver full-size models.

This valve setup is also somewhat unusual on the Maytag as it's not just a "let the wash tub drain" (for lack of a better term) setup as in Hoovers and the Japanese washers, but it will only drain from one OR the other, not both. On most twin tub machines, the spinner side is always open to the pump and the drain control opens up the wash side, but not here. So you have to be somewhat careful there the water is spun out of the load before draining the wash tub. The reason for the broken flapper is that the core of it is made from cheap pot metal. There is always water in this part of the system, usually soapy water because few people seem to ever rinse them out when they're done. Over time the cheap metal just weakens and erodes away until poof, gone. This is one of those parts they should have made from plastic years ago, but alas. When you reinstall it, you will need to adjust the cable as that no water bleeds over to the other tub. Fill the washer tub with some water and observe the level and the presence of water in the spinner. On your machine, which is an early one, there are 4 screws that hold on the plate with the cable wheel that need to be adjusted. When the screws are loose the plate can be slid up and down for adjustment. You just have to fiddle with it to get it where you want it.

Also, as Kevin mentioned, check the "poly-belts" on both of the machines. The washer uses a clear polyurethane belt to drive the impellers, and this is the most common failure on these washers. Replacements are hard to find, but Martin (Yogitunes) has had luck with using other replacement materials for that belt (which he could sell and make $$$, hint hint). The dryer also uses one of these belts for the blower, so if it powers up and heats and tumbles but no air out the back, then this is why.

All in all they look nice, and I hope you get years of enjoyment from them!

-Tim

(see, I really am back...)
 
Oh and to answer the actual question...

Once you have that frame out like you do, there are 3 screws (1/4" head) that hold that plasic valve assembly to the frame. Remove them, and separate the plastic housing from the frame. The plunger assembly will then pull out of the plastic body and that is the part that you replace.

Hope that helps!

-Tim
 
See, I really am back...

And taking lessons from Gordon on keeping posts short, I see... (Ducks and runs!)

These diaphragm setups are starting to vanish into the landscape. Those of you who own A50's and full size sud savers might want to keep an eye on this.

RCD
 
Well, that is disappointing

Hey there,

I received my new stopper for the diverter valve and installed it earlier today. The dumb thing still wants to pull water from both tubs. Just how much tension do I put on that stopper? I don't want to break it off, but it won't work to be constantly draining both tubs......
Is there a break in time on one of these things?

I will say that I am impressed with the machine....it is very powerful and looks like it would save a bit of money if I could get it to work correctly.....

PS...Yes, my home is the Owatonna that got 15+ inches of snow today.....
 
Best of luck with your repair. Hello and welcome. Do not give up on your porta pair. Those that have given advice will be back to check your post and see how it went. You will get answers. This forum is very lucky to have the best mechanics and restorers you will ever meet. I mostly appreciate their posts as I am not very mechanically inclined. alr2903
 

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