KDS-58C questions

[barcoboy]

What is involved in changing the shaft seal on a KDS? When I changed the seal on my Whirlpool PowerClean dishwasher, I had to get an entire pump rebuild kit because both the wash and drain impellers I had to chip out with a hammer and chisel because they were so stuck to the motor shaft.

Guess I should get ahold of a service manual as well as an owner's manual. Anybody out there have one they could email me?

 

[recyclewasher]

huH! KA manuals in Jan 2013..

Barco check out..
Welcome to Automatic Ephemera, a library for historical research and education, sharing public domain documents relating to vintage

Last month RAINED ka manuals from kds-20 series to Waaaayyy wwaayy back .. Any more manuals and it would have sunk Noahs Ark. Sparked a downloading food frenzy!

Can't thank the AW members enough for that kds-19 service manual

 

[combo52]

New main water seal in a KDS-18-20

It is much easier to replace this seal than the one that you did in the WP PC DW , mainly because the motor shaft is SS and the pump will come apart easily. And the neoprene rubber and carbon seal is the same as WPs and MTs, I buy just the carbon and rubber part from MT DWs as this is the only part that really wears out.

 

[barcoboy]

Nice! Thanks recyclewasher. Picked up the owner's and service manuals this afternoon.

Thanks combo52. Was looking up the repair procedure today in the service manual, and other than the measuring and shimming, it looks pretty straight forward.

 

[recyclewasher]

no problem Barco,

I took some of my own advice
And looked at the service manual for the kds19 for a pic
Of the bottom frame area.
I cleared my machine from customs this weekend,
Everything was as expected for a well used machine,
Until I removed ALL of the double boxing plus heavy duty clear plastic wrap
And bubble wrap and noticed the bent
Bottom frame members and
Wobbly front adjustable leg mounts.
The build quality for the frame is definitely not in the same
League as my same era GE GSD2800 dw bottom frame.
The Kds19 door weight however is a different story-very heavy duty

If you still have your machine under repair, can you spare a pic of the rear mounted castors screwed to the rear frame members as I am designing a bolt-on 1/4" thick bottom frame for my machine to convert it into a portable unit.

The factory frame material is very thin and I want to remove it completely to straighten it properly and then reattach to unit with new fabricated frame.

 

[barcoboy]

Hi recyclewasher. I'll certainly get you a pic of the rear castors and frame. Just getting over a stupid cold so it might not be tonight, but it will be soon.

 

[barcoboy]

OK, here you go!

Rear frame.

 

[barcoboy]

Closeup of left rear caster.

 

[barcoboy]

...and matching right rear caster!

 

[barcoboy]

Full lower cabinet.

 

[appnut]

1st rapid advance timer

Well I'm gonna cross hairs here regarding  this and explain why I said  KDS16.  Yes, I was aware of the KDS14 & KDS15.   BUT, those machines still had exposed timer dials at the lower base of the cabinet where  one could reach, touch, grab, and turn the timer dial themselves (I did).  Beginning with the KDS16 series, all timer dials were completely concealed and non-accessable easily by the user.  So to me, that was the first TRUE rapid advance timer.  !!!!!

 

[recyclewasher]

just what the Nurse ordered..

Thanks a million for the detailed frame pics Barco, especially the whole bottom pic plus the front pic in the other post. The kds19 brackets are nothing like what you have-was looking at electrical 'strut' U channel with the slots as a frame re-inforcer.

I was distracted past couple days on youtube downloading 60's 70's 80s music esp the re-mastered ones in 1080p-big difference in quality.

So today after removing both side frames and bottom cross piece to take to a friends hydraulic shop press to straighten the bent sections, I also checked the dooor hinges for bending as well-(still straight) and wondered aloud that if the hinges were bent I could place a cardboard sheet on top and bottom of flat part of hinge to protect plastic coating from tearing while placing two flat 3/4" steel flats on top and bottom cardboard sheets while under manual hydraulic press. I know way back when Eastwood Co used to stock USA and Europe shop items they had a plasti-dip solution in a can that you dipped your tool handle ends in to leave a plastic or rubberdised grip and came in different colours like black blue red green yellow -not sure about white

 

[barcoboy]

I wondered the same thing recyclewasher about straightening the hinges. The only thing I thought is that perhaps once they had been bent once, they might be easier bent the second time as the metal might be weaker in the area of the bend. Something else I wondered about the hinges is that there is no place in the service manual describing how to remove or replace them... at least not that I've seen, and I've been through it a few times.

My next project is changing the o-rings in the detergent dispenser. Last night I was able to get the cotter pins out and disassemble the cover mechanisms without having to take the whole dispenser out of the door. While doing so, I noticed that one of the wire connectors going to the left bimetal was partially cooked... the plastic was all black and brittle, and the connector itself was also blackened. It must have got hot at some point, even though both dispensers worked each time I tried them. So I will have to change that as well I guess.

 

[rjpatterson]

KDS-58 Door bottom gasket

Re: KDS-58C, SN 99-438222, Spec 26992

The door bottom gasket (#4161510) and retainer (#4161509) of this 43 year old machine are failing, resulting in a leak at the door. The noted parts are not available from the better KitchenAid part suppliers such as Repair Clinic, the noted parts are indicated as "unavailable".

Although the gasket and retainer were long functional on this little used KDS-58C, this has to be a common problem. The original parts would be the preferred repair, but there have to be various standard seals that will be functional replacements.

A closed cell foam, or hollow, self adhesive strip of a suitable shape and size could be suitable. The question is which one(s) are suitable?

Rather than taking a trial and error approach, I am hoping other owners of this and similar Hobart KitchenAid Superba dishwashers will comment on their own door bottom edge gasket repairs.

Thank you!

 

[qsd-dan]

Gasket https://www.ebay.com/itm/1757701687...A2GP67mVG6o2I1hWQOUUg3p4x0|tkp:Bk9SR8DV6eqGYw

 

Retainer https://www.ebay.com/itm/2663673428...maM/2Ul4PbT/Ws3y6NnmbPBYsr|tkp:Bk9SR8KB9eqGYw