Kenmore 92580800 Washer Banging

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Video of the spin cycle with lid open and no clothes

Hello!
I posted that video. The lid banging is so loud. I pushed it toward the controls and hopefully it’s quiet enough for you to hear. Thanks so much!

 
Cabinet wobble

Sheesh, that's quite a wobble. If you were to take the cabinet off and bypass the lidswitch connector plug with a jumper wire, you could run it without the cabinet to see if it's wobbling the whole base or not. Sometimes I've found the cabinet won't seat right on the frame if the edges of the cabinet are bent, and it will act something like that. Hammering it out has usually solved the problem for me, but that could also not be applicable to your situation.

The tub actually appears to be askew in the video when it's running, which seems to be causing an exacerbated tub wobble, so it might be a skate plate moved out of place? That's a little bit involved to try and reset but it's not terribly difficult. You'd need somebody else strong enough to lift the tub up while you rotate the plate into proper position. Shouldn't need to replace it though, I had to on mine only because it was clearly ran for years without one side having a pad under it, so it wore through the paint and caused it to run a little rough even after having replaced the pad.
 
Trying to take out agitator: nut won’t budge!

Hello!
I thought I’d try the easier of the two options, taking out the agitator, first. I’ve used PB Blaster and WD 40 on the nut throughout the day but it just won’t budge. I tried pounding my ratchet, as it’s on the nut, with a hammer to loosen it. I’m hesitant to use heat because of all the plastic. Does anyone have a solution that won’t mess up my agitator? Thank you!
 
Removing a stuck agitator Bolt

You may have to use an extension on the ratchet handle for more leverage, sometimes they’re stuck occasionally the head of the nut breaks off and you have to replace the transmission.

You may have to use a extension on the ratchet handle for more leverage, sometimes they’re stuck occasionally the head of the nut breaks off and you have to replace the transmission.

The washer is over 30 years old. If it’s had a lot of use you maybe should just be replacing it, not everything is easily repairable and it’s not gonna last that much longer no matter what you do.

John
 
Not worth repairing?

John, Thanks for the info! I got the washer used last year, so I don’t know how much use it’s seen. It’s in great shape overall with little to no rust. I replaced a 2016 Samsung with this because I wanted something all mechanical. I also wanted a Whirlpool-made machine. The Samsung was way more rusted than this one. Unless I buy a Speed Queen, anything I get today is going to be crap. It seems to make some sense to repair this one if I can, but do you know something about this one? Does it have something big that tends to go out around this time that’s super difficult and expensive to replace?
 
Hi, these were very good washers in their day. Obviously I’ve worked on thousands of them. I still work on them every week in my business

But we’re starting to see a lot of of these that aren’t worth fixing. I can’t tell without looking at yours.

It’s not a good sign if the agitator bold is so rusted that you can’t get it out I do fear that the tub itself may be cracking, which is also a difficult problem. The tubs are extremely expensive and somewhat no longer available, excessive vibration like this is not a typical problem for these machines sometimes you’re lucky and there is a simple solution many times it’s something much more serious.

While it’s not impossible to get a machine like this, that’s in good shape. You really have to figure out how much it’s been used. What’s wrong with it it’s sort of like trying to drive a 1995 car. Some of them are still in excellent shape. A lot of them should’ve been crushed a long time ago.

Direct Dr., Kenmore and Whirlpool washers can make good washers still if you can get a good one you also could look for a Speed Queen top loader made in the last 10 years. I assume you’re looking for a traditional top load washer.

John L
 
Thanks so much John! Checked skate plate also

Thanks so much John! I was hoping it was a misplaced skate plate but it seems lined up. I took another video in case you see anything obvious. The plate moved with the tub.

Would you recommend a specific direct drive machine if I have to go that route?

 
One more thought: Grommet under skate plate?

Hi again,
As I was looking at the skate plate, I noticed that this rubber grommet under there was dry and seemingly out of place. Does this have anything to do with my issues? If so, it looks difficult to replace.

datalady-2025021816105302932_1.jpg
 
Thanks so much, John, and DadDoes! Decided to replace her.

Thank so much for your help with my Kenmore 110 washer. After further research, I think the issue is the clutch. Given the expense of the clutch and age of the washer (31), I’ve decided to replace her. I am really sad. I was hoping to keep her awhile. I loved her while she was here.
 
Black piece of foam band, is not out of place that’s just to keep the brake drum from making a ringing sound. It’s not important.

Probably a good decision just to replace this machine. It’s probably an involved repair one thing I can tell you it definitely is not is a bad clutch a clutch will not make a machine vibrate like that. A bad clutch will keep the machine from spinning at full speed. Therefore it would not shake much, lol.

John L
 
 
That machine looks to be in very good condition on the 'underside' ... very little rusting on the base pedestal and tub support, not considering what may be going on with the centerpost and basket.  I wish I could get hold of it to figure out what's the problem!
 

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