Kenmore Elite model # 110.20982992

[gracierat]

Hello! First time posting!
I have a 25 year old Kenmore Elite washer model number 110.20982992.
It won't empty the water or spin, agitator works fine. We replace the coupler and checked the hose and pump and both are clear of any clogs. Still won't drain or spin. Is it worth spending more money trying to figure out what's wrong with it? Or does anyone know what to try next?

 

[vacerator]

Get your multi meter ready. Check the timer for voltage to the clutch, and pump relays when set to spin. If there is continuity then check the relays and solenoids.
Might need a new clutch. It's a better washer than made today.

 

[magic_clean]

A place to start would be the lid switch. The machine will not drain or spin if there's a problem associated with the switch.

-LP

 

[DADoES]

The machine of question is a Whirlpool-built direct-drive. There are no pump relays or voltage to a clutch.

The OP doesn't say so but I'm assuming the motor isn't running during drain/spin.

gracierat, your problem may be that the safety lid switch is broken. It comes into play during drain and spin periods. The switch on your model is mounted under the top deck, is actuated by an arm on the (right-side, I believe) lid hinge when the lid is opened/closed. Open/close the lid an inch or so, listen for a faint click. If there is a click, then the switch may be electrically bad vs. physically broken.

The switch is accessed by removing the outer cabinet ... which presumably you know how to do since you say you've replaced the motor coupler and checked the pump. You can check the switch with a multimeter.

A replacement switch, part number WP8054980, is available but tends to be unreasonably $$. There's an open-box one on eBay at a reasonable price, possibly more choices there.

You can also bypass the switch by tying together the wires to which it connects ... but I didn't say that.

 

[DADoES]

A place to start would be the lid switch. The machine will not drain or spin if there's a problem associated with the switch.

-LP

Great minds ... !

 

[gracierat]

The OP doesn't say so but I'm assuming the motor isn't running during drain/spin.

The machine of question is a Whirlpool-built direct-drive. There are no pump relays or voltage to a clutch.

The OP doesn't say so but I'm assuming the motor isn't running during drain/spin.

gracierat, your problem may be that the safety lid switch is broken. It comes into play during drain and spin periods. The switch on your model is mounted under the top deck, is actuated by an arm on the (right-side, I believe) lid hinge when the lid is opened/closed. Open/close the lid an inch or so, listen for a faint click. If there is a click, then the switch may be electrically bad vs. physically broken.

The switch is accessed by removing the outer cabinet ... which presumably you know how to do since you say you've replaced the motor coupler and checked the pump. You can check the switch with a multimeter.

A replacement switch, part number WP8054980, is available but tends to be unreasonably $$. There's an open-box one on eBay at a reasonable price, possibly more choices there.

You can also bypass the switch by tying together the wires to which it connects ... but I didn't say that.

 

[gracierat]

The motor hums when on pump or spin. I feel like it's a bit complicated for me to mess with except the lid switch, I may give a try! I'm a 70 year old lady and I can't see real well. Maybe the better bet would be to have someone out to have a look? Or try to find another oldie that works! Any suggestions on what would be a reliable machine?

 

[gracierat]

Thanks everyone who answered!! Really helpful information!

 

[DADoES]

Does it agitate at all the speed selections?

 

[DADoES]

If the motor hums during drain & spin periods then the lid switch shouldn't be the problem. You're sure it's the main drive motor that's humming? Opening the lid should stop the humming. It shouldn't hum for long until it cuts-out on overheat/overload protection, until the protector cools/resets and it tries to run again .... repeat.

 

[gracierat]

If the motor hums during drain & spin periods then the lid switch shouldn't be the problem. You're sure it's the main drive motor that's humming? Opening the lid should stop the humming. It shouldn't hum for long until it cuts-out on overheat/overload protection, until the protector cools/resets and it tries to run again .... repeat.

No I'm not sure if it's the motor humming or if it's something else. I'll have to check that out better when I get back home from trick or treat with the grand kids. Thanks!