Kenmore Washing Machine..Fix or Ditch?

[washermandan]

Hi All-

I’ve got a 20+ year old Kenmore top loading washer, and it’s developed some major hiccups, and I’m trying to figure out whether to fix it or ditch it. The Washer is Kenmore Model # 110.24642300

It came to me with a matching dryer, gently used as well. I’ve had them both maybe 5 years, and the only thing I’ve ever had to do is replace the pump in the washer.

It’s not as fully optioned as I’d like, but it does a great job, or has until recently. In any setting, once it fills to rinse it will agitate fine, but when it goes into the drain spin cycle it starts pumping out the water, but doesn’t spin. So then it’ll dump more water in for that brief rinse, and it still doesn’t spin, so I’m
Left with heavy damp wash. If I catch it in time I can jam something into the lock and start it spinning by using my hand to manually move it into motion, but left alone it won’t engage. I’ve been using it like this a few weeks, but after running a set of new dish towels through tonight and having to literally park myself next to the machine, I realize something has to give. Also leaning into the machine to “spin” it caused me to pull something as well this evening, so I gotta do something!

This machine owes me nothing granted, but it it’s fixable I would definitely tackle it myself. Any and all help anyone can give me would be greatly appreciated. Don’t have any repair services that are local anymore that I trust, so I have learned to do most I can myself. Have a home appliance warranty but they won’t service anything old, they’ll cut you a check for a new machine and tell you to go shopping. Instead I paid another bill and put the 20 dollar pump in, because it defied all logic to not fix it.

Now though, If I ditch it, I want a top loader, but have no idea what to get in terms of a new one or a used one. My local Sears is closing right now, do they have any Kenmore models as of late that aren’t garbage? I had looked at Speed Queens a few years ago and had set my mind on that, but then they switched everything up and I have heard they are not worth it these days. (The shop I’d buy those from sells the TR3, TR7, and GE and Hotpoint machines...not opposed to any particular brand for new..

I just want something that will wash as good as what I’ve got if I go new, not really in need of bells and whistles, although I like a large capacity with maybe a few more settings (like an all hot, or all warm setting, maybe an option for a second rinse....and I don’t want HE...I need that agitator!!

Used: I’m partial to Montgomery Ward machines, Maytags, and Kenmores (Whirlpool based) ...Norge’s hold a lot of weight with me too. Whirlpools from before they lost their way.

My Dads parents had a 1976 Montgomery Ward set that was still running when we sold the house in 2003....someone in the family could always repair it, and it was bulletproof. Everything she bought was from Wards, and it all usually held up like a tank.

My Moms parents had a Norge set that they got with the house in 1961...it was still running in 1989 when my Grandfather went to Sears and bought her a new Kenmore set, which lasted until 1995-1996, when she went out and bought one of the last great Maytag Sets, which I am still kicking myself for not taking when the house sold a few years ago...

Another option potentially...I know of someone who’s selling a ton of gently used Maytag coin-op washers and dryers from the 70s and 80s, but I know zilch about those, I’d assume they’re good machines to be industrial. Also have a lead on a early 80s Maytag Fabric-Matic, lower end model (3 buttons for levels, 3 buttons for water temps) but not sure about that either.

Looking forward to hearing your thoughts...I am inclined to fix the Kenmore like I said If I can, but am leaning towards getting a new set or a used one and giving myself a working machine, and then allowing for some downtime soon to make the Kenmore fully functional again...

Thanks

-Daniel

 

[DADoES]

 
Drain is supposed to run for 2 mins without spinning.  There's a neutral drain mechanism in the transmission that presets during agitation so that the spin gear is held stationary after the timer pauses the motor for a few seconds and then starts the motor in the reverse direction for the drain period.  The timer pauses the motor again after drain which releases the hold when the motor starts again (in the same reverse direction) for spin.  Agitation, pause, drain, pause, spin.  The same sequence repeats for the deep rinse.

Are the timer pauses occurring properly?

 

[repairguy]

Going by your description of helping the washer along by hand to get it to spin you will need to replace the clutch. So to be clear if you have the lid open during final spin and the lid switch is satisfied and the tub starts to spin simply by you helping it out then you need a clutch.

 

[turquoisedude]

I second what Melvin says.  Went through this with my lovely Lady Kenmore, a 1965 model. 

 

[combo52]

Poor Spinning Kenmore DD Washer

This is a really common problem as these age, most common reason is oil in the clutch from the oil seal leaking leaking around the agitator shaft in the clutch.

 

Its a bit of work but you can replace the seal and clutch if you want to do the work for not that much money, A cheap fix we do sometimes is to put the older 6 pad clutch lining in with the stronger spring meant for the newer 3 pad clutch and then the washer will spin with oil on in the clutch.

 

You can tell easily if oil is in the clutch by looking under the washer on the inside of the cabinet sides for oil splatter parallel with the top of the transmission.

 

John L.

 

 

 

 

[jben]

Isn't the agitator shaft seal in the top of the transmission and if it should leak, how does oil move up into the clutch ? It seems that the clutch is setting above the transmission so a leak should move downward (or spin out like in my picture) and not up into the clutch?

I know John L. must be correct, based on his long experience and knowledge, but what am I missing here ?

I'm going to be working on my KM DD in the next few weeks so trying to better understand what I may need to address based on the leak ring around the housing that is showing in the picture.

 

[jeff_adelphi]

Oil leak

The agitator shaft seal is in the spin hub that sits inside the clutch drum, any leakage will be inside the clutch, and then be thrown out into the cabinet.

 

[DADoES]

 
There is an oil seal #3 at the spin drive pinion on the transmission cover.

Seal #6 inside the spin pinion mates to the agitator shaft.

#21 is an oil seal at the input shaft/gear on the lower housing.

And of course the bearings and seals at the bottom in the tub centerpost for the spin tube and at the top in the tub centerpost for the spin tube and inside the spin tube for the agitator shaft.

 

[jeff_adelphi]

Thanks for the parts list Glenn. The seal #6 is the one that's up inside the clutch drum, and may be the where the leak is coming from. If you have any water leakage, it could be coming down along the agitator shaft and into the clutch.