KitchenAid KDI-17A

[tinkerer]

Putting this by the curb

I've decided to put the machine out on the curb. I can't get any advice and the parts are no longer available.

 

[combo52]

Drain Problems On A KD-17 Series DW

Drain valve, test it by removing and trying to blow through it, you should not be able to with the coil not energized and you can actually see through it and easily blow though it when it is energized.

Drain pump test, remove the drain valve and take a 5' length of 1/2" ID hose [ an old section of garden hose will work ] and connect to the pump outlet and put the other end in the sink. Add two gallons of water to the bottom of the DW and start the machine [ you can turn off the regular hot water supply for the DW during this test ] once the DWs motor starts the machine should completely drain in 30-45 seconds, if the drain pump has trouble doing this you probably something like a piece of glass caught in the drain pump or a torn or broken drain impeller in the drain pump.

 

[stevet]

Giving up so soon?

Your thread has has gotten you some responses that make a lot of sense and there ARE still parts available for this unit for the problems you are having. Drain valves were always a weak link in the chain on these machines and if you can't find a new one, many of us here will have one to get you back up and running.
Once you toss that machine, you will eventually be sorry you did!

 

[tinkerer]

thanks for responding. I have solved the leaking problem. I checked all the hoses and they're clear. I checked the drain valve and it's clear except for the question I posted earlier - the valve piston has a black rubber boot that appears to be separate from the piston. Has this boot separated from the piston and is now partially obstructing the drain? Should this boot remain attached to the piston? I can't find any exploded diagram of the drain valve to show me how this should be configured. I've looked on various websites to see other pistons that are just plastic with a black rubber washer on the end to seal the drain. Mine is not like this.

I have a feeling that this might be the problem but I was hoping that someone with experience of this particular piston design could help me. The variety of part designs has my head spinning.

If I'm to keep the machine, my next issues are going to be:

: How do I replace the filter? I'm wondering if I can go to a metal fabrication shop, save the top alum. piece and have them spin a bottom piece for me to replace the plastic one.

: what do I do if I need new electrical parts like the timer?

Thanks again for your response.

 

[toploader55]

I may have a spare filter.

I will check my stash and see.

 

[toploader55]

Sorry Man

I have got many other parts but not a filter.

Makes me crazy why I have so many duplicates of parts but no filter.

 

[bigalsf]

Filter on eBay

There's one on eBay right now for about $46. It says it's for a KDS-57A, but it will fit your machine without issue. The pump tops for the KD17 series of dishwashers were all the same, so this one will snap right in place (it looks pretty good in the pictures, and is well worth the price).

Good luck! This is a great machine & parts are still available. If you end up needing a timer check I believe I have one you could have (but based on what I've been reading it looks like you need a new drain valve. The drain valve is not really serviceable by parts any longer; the individual components would be very hard to locate. They have not been designed for field repair for a long time now.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dishwasher-...975?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51af395877

 

[bigalsf]

Drain Valve

There is also a direct replacement drain valve on eBay for about $37. Here's the link. If these two parts are all your machine needs you will be back in business, and you will love this dishwasher!

Good luck & keep us posted!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Whirlpool-K...466?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ebdcdfe7a

 

[tinkerer]

Thank you for the 2 great links. I took the drain valve apart one more time and decided that the rubber boot was not the problem. I restarted the machine and, when it got to the drain portions of the cycles, I got a loud buzzing and the solenoid seized up. I tried to check to make sure that I had put the wires back correctly but was confused when I compared it to the wiring diagrams published in the manuals. My machine's drain valve has a single prong at the top with a double connector - on the top is a yellow wire that goes to the pump motor. (In the manual, it's shown as a white wire.) Below that there are 2 white wires, one connects to the fill valve and the other connects to the fan motor. The lower prong has a pink (red) wire that connects to the timer above. The set-up is such that it would be impossible to reconnect the wires wrong.

I have absolutely no idea why the drain valve stopped working but it started to smoke a little and that was the end of it. Before that, I could manually open the drain to let water out but now it's seized and not functioning.

I will order the new drain valve and hope that that solves the problem. I should also probably have someone snake the drain. It's hard-piped and getting at it will be a nightmare. I doubt that it's ever been snaked in the 40+ years that it's been here. Any other ideas as to why it draining slowly? I sure hope it's not the timer.

Thanks, again for all your wisdom.